Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT

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Originally Posted By: nleksan
Oh wow, thats some serious oil slinging! I did the same thing on my dad's Focus and luckily it only sprayed a little bit and I caught it quickly, but it could have been bad.

Sounds like Redline has worked well for you in the past (man I do love me a great GrpV oil), I would bet your M5 would enjoy it as well
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the folks over at m5board seem to like it, and I do know that people (apart from just myself) consider them to be the best driveline fluids available for our brand of vehicles. By that, I mean transmission and differential; I personally use Motul RBF600/660 brake fluid exclusively. Oh, and the same D4 ATF that'd go in your tranny would be ideal for PS fluid.

A DB9??? Drool... I have always loved AMs, even though they aren't the fastest or best handling, they have a certain aura about them... And they can be daily driven, they are so comfy. I personally dream of a Charcoal Metallic DBS, red and charcoal Alcantara and leather interior... Yum!

I can tell you that the new Pilot Super Sports are, hands down, the best tire I have used on the street. Grip better than P Zero Nero or Toyo's best offerings, and even surpass their brother, the PS2, in both wet and dry traction by a good measure. They are also more communicative, are very good about easing you into their limits and give plenty of warning before you surpass those limits, have extremely crisp turn in response, and they look very nice! Best of all, they are the most comfortable UHP tire I have ever used. It is like turning my coilovers 3 clicks softer in how much more compliant they are compared to my usual go to.tires.
I use 245 width front and 285 width rear (custom widened fenders - cut, pulled, metal welded, sanded, painted. Similar to M3 but more aggressive IMO, without being "in your face"). Sounds similar to sizes you would need, and even with all that rear width, I have yet to hydroplane.
You will LOVE them!

Take care,
nleksan


Yes, I've heard very good things about Redline's lubricants in general. I have a decent stash of their 5w30 that I bought from Canadian Tire when they were closing it out.

Yes, he's got a 2010 DB9 IIRC, it is silver. He drives it pretty much daily in the summer.

Good to hear about those tires! I've been eyeing them as my next major purchase for the car.
 
Red Line oil is the only oil I've ever noticed to make an actual difference. I've asked around how this is even possible & a guy here said it was due to having a turbo, that the heavy dose of Grp V base & high Moly allowed for quicker spool-up on the stock k04 turbo.

This was immediately apparent to me. Placebo or not I fell in love w/ it since. So far I've ran...

Castrol GTX 5w30, Edge 5w30 (sm) & GC
Royal P 0w40 sm
M1 0w40, 10w30 HM & 15w50 (loved the latter, A LOT!)
Motorcraft 5w20 (dealer error) & 5w30
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
Rotella T6 5w40
Red Line 10w40 & 5w30 (current)

Of them all Red Line 5w30 I liked best & GC the least as both times I used GC I had issues w/ a collapsed filter within 4k miles. Not sure why but it caused weird noises & so I pulled the oil & filter early.

Red Line 5w30 is awesome in my turbo car tho. It really did feel like it made an actual difference that was tangible. Oddly emough the quietest oil was a tie between Castrol Edge 5w30 (sm) & M1 15w50. The smoothest was the M1 15w50 racing, which I ran during a brutal hot summer that I was doing some racing with & I wanted a thicker grade for to stand up to the 100+ temp days with lots of city traffic driving & the track days. I really loved it.

But once I tried the RL 5w30 my search for oil ended. I'm still kind of shocked I actually could feel a difference with at all.
 
P.s. I don't like the Red Line MTF (85) I have in the tranny. Better than stock fluid (not by a lot) but nowhere near as good as the Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS honey I had in it before, which felt miles better in shift smoothness & quality. I'm wanting to try the GM stuff next per a member here suggested.
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
The smoothest was the M1 15w50 racing


^^Same here. I used that oil all the time untill WM quit carrying the 5 quart jugs of it. Now it`s $9 a quart at the chains. I emailed Mobil about it and they said they`re going to bring back the 5 quart jugs. Since then,I started using the 10W40HM and it`s just as smooth,maybe the 15W50 being a hair smoother.
 
Overk1ll: you can't go wrong with those tires! I really do hope you enjoy them. Even with my suspension setup being tough on tires, especially with -1.5 to -2.25 degrees camber on the street (more often the former), I've got 8k miles on a set with only about 25-30% treadwear! With PS2s or P Zero Neros I would be at 50%. Needless to say, I am pleased!

Shpankey: I am glad you have had good experiences with Redline! It does seem to be the ultimate oil for FI applications. My Lysholm TS blower seems to love it. I can only imagine how much of a difference it makes with a turbo (compared to an SC as in my app), especially a quick spooling unit like your K04.
I agree with you about their MTF: too thick IMO, at least for my app. Redline MTL is a bit better, but I find their D4 ATF to be perfect for my 6spd manual. Granted, I have a very nice short shift kit and dual-sheer selecting rod.from UUC with upgraded Delrin bushings and stiffenned tranny mounts, so it is very precise but definitely "notchy". The D4 made it noticeably smoother, and while I had a braided SS clutch line, organic clutch and 10lb flywheel installed at the same time, clutch engagement is enhanced over what it was with the same setup on my 5spd.

How do you like your MS3? My dad is trying to decide between: MazdaSpeed3, VW GTI, Focus ST, and Mini Cooper S...
 
I adore it. A true pleasure to drive. Gobs of torque on low rpm's is a treat to scoot around town with. A couple mods, intake & mid-pipe makes sizeable power gains cheap & easily due to a very poor stock intake design.

I put an ACT 6 puck carbon kevlar clutch in mine, cp-e rear motor mount & billet aluminum shifter bushings along w/ a good synthetic fluid (xt-m5-qs was impressive) have made for better shifting. I'm putting in a cp-e tranny mount & the jbarone short shift plate (a poor man's short shifter lol) soon to complete that area for me.

Love the car for sure though. I have a Devil's Own Stage 2 meth injection kit w/ 2.5 gallon sumped tank sitting here too, just too lazy to install, along w/ a high end catch-can kit. Just need to pickup a cp-e or corksport TMIC & downpipe to round out my upgrades before COBB does my AP Tuner w/ custom dyno tune to complete my setup (already have a catless mid-pipe installed.

Also thnx for that tire suggestion & info, I just happened to by buying tires this week also. I'm going w/ those now. I got 34k out of the stockers by some miracle, though they're bald.
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Originally Posted By: shpankey
P.s. I don't like the Red Line MTF (85) I have in the tranny. Better than stock fluid (not by a lot) but nowhere near as good as the Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS honey I had in it before, which felt miles better in shift smoothness & quality. I'm wanting to try the GM stuff next per a member here suggested.


Interdasting! I agree. My Jaguar X-Type has the Redline MTF and it's not great. Too bad I have a stock of it, otherwise I'd put in something better.
 
Mustang manual trannies require ATF. Tremec even warns against using anything but. Carbon fiber synchros and needle bearings are the reason for this.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: shpankey
P.s. I don't like the Red Line MTF (85) I have in the tranny. Better than stock fluid (not by a lot) but nowhere near as good as the Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS honey I had in it before, which felt miles better in shift smoothness & quality. I'm wanting to try the GM stuff next per a member here suggested.


Interdasting! I agree. My Jaguar X-Type has the Redline MTF and it's not great. Too bad I have a stock of it, otherwise I'd put in something better.


Buy some bottles of D4 ATF from Redline and do a 50/50 mix... A bunch of people I know do either that exact mix, or a 50/50 of MTL/MTF, for their track cars (from spec-Miata's to race-prepped M3's). Should give better cold-weather shifting without thinning too much at operating temp. Hope that helps
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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
The guy who had the engine failure,I wonder if the outcome would`ve been different if he`d used M1`s 0W40,10W40HM,5W50,or 15W50? Was the cam and bearing failure due to too thin a lubricant? Or a lacking add pack? Was the cam wear caused by a breach of the oil film (being too thin) or an additive that was not present that if was,would`ve prevented the cam wear?


He had a rod bearing failure, not a cam failure AFAIK. And it could have been from dirt ingestion, a poor tune.....etc. We are dealing with modified cars here, not stockers.


aquariuscsm,
Funny you said this, I asked him about this. Remember he was running Livernois Stage 3 CNC Ported Heads and Comp 127500 (stage 5)Cams. These cams had a very high lift and duration so he had to Lockout the Cam Phasers. the reason that these cars require 5W-20 oil is that the cam phasers are activated by oil pressure, so using a heavy weight oil can affect the performance. but since he did not have the phasers he should have run a heavier weight oil, but he still ran the recommended 5W-20. He is a maintenance nut; he was meticulous about keeping up with it. I believe with the higher cam lift, and the 450+ HP on a NA car the crank case pressure was forcing the oil out the breather tubes. He had to put vent filters on the keep the oil from entering the intake. Could this contributed to the Spun bearing? Sure, along with a thinner oil than what he needed. Oh and yes he spun a bearing.

Overkill is right that his engine was heavily modified later in life, where my engine was slightly modified late in life. Although we both started Racing and modding our cars together, we stated away from internal mods to the engine until recently.

As most mustang owners we always start out with an Intake and tune, then Mufflers. The 2005-10 3- valves had these butterfly devices in the intake runners called charge motion plates, Steeda made deletes for them, then we moved on to under drive pulleys and suspension items, upper and lower control arms to combat wheel hop, a one piece aluminum 16lb drive shaft to get rid of the 50 lb two piece and installed Long tube headers. He lowered his car I stayed with the stock struts and springs. Then the Comp and FRPP came out with NSR (No springs required) cams so we did those. He was still losing to me at every race so he stepped up and installed a TR6060 GT500 Manual trans but hated it, so he bought a 5R55S Auto ( that same as mine) but was still could not beat me. I installed a TCI Super street fighter 3500 Stall and gained another 3 of tenths on him. So he went for the big guns, Maxed out the heads and cams and finally ran a 12.1 @ 114, so he was finally beating me. Well I could not let that happen so this past year I dumped the NSR cams and put in the next level and cleaned up the exhaust and intake ports on the heads, installed springs. I did not have the money to go his route and since I still drive my car daily to work, I would not like the way the Heavy cammed engine ran in traffic. (he has a Jeep as a daily driver). So I settled for what I have, I plan on running 12.1 this year and I would be ecstatic if I hit 11.9. I may look at some weight reduction like K Member and radiator support replacements among other things. But the engine will stay where it is unless I get a hair up my butt and trade it in for a 2013 Boss 302
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@ Shpankey,
It is, once you start it takes over.. What was cool is that we both worked on our cars together, we had a lot of fun doing it, He helped me pull the trans and install the converter, I helped him pull his engine and install the Heads and cams, so yea it was friendly competition, he is like a brother so no hard feelings at the end of the day we sit down and have a beer, and go over the racing timeslips to see where we could improve next time. It Sucks that his car has been down for so long, we don't hang out as much anymore, our family and work take up the time now.

@ Buster {Royal Sulfur} ?????????????? Not sure what that ment..
 
nice car! i had an 02 gt a few years back with a p1sc running 10lbs of boost, and supporting mods. i didnt track the car much, but i did street race quite a bit. i used 5w20 motorcraft and a fl820s filter every 3-5k and it held up great, and stayed clean. i put about 40k on that car. it was bought at 80k and had always used 5w20 motorcraft. id stick with the royal purple if you like it!
 
it's been a while but I thought I would post an update on my 2005 Mustang GT,
13 years 150,000 miles and only used Royal Purple in it from Day one.

I just sold the Car, it's running as strong as it ever did. I raced it alot.
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Here are pics of it when I sold it

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I sold it because I wanted a new one...
here is what I got

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Unfortunately the 5.2 L Voodoo Flat Plane crank required 5W-50 synthetic and RP does not have 5w-50
 
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