Oil for my lawnmower help!!!!

[Coolbreeze]

Hello.
I have a craftsman lawnmower. When I winterize my lawnmower do I have to change my oil right now in the winter or can I wait and change it in the spring? Also can I use motor oil like mobile 1 in my lawnmower? If I can use mobile 1 oil should I use sae 30 or 5w-30? I heard that sae 30 is better. If anyone can answers all the questions I would most appreciate it or even anyone of the questions. I have put a link for a oil chart that is specific to my lawnmower. If you want I can give you the model # for the lawnmower. http://m.managemylife.com/images/14735/original/1.jpg?1325073323

Thank you

 

[johnachak]

I would dump it now. When you see the condition of it and smell the contaminants you will see why. I personally use a 50/50 mix of HD 30 and a store brand full synthetic 10w30. My warranty is long done. If you still have yours in effect, use what is called for in the manual. Good luck.

 

[synthetic_crazy]

I would change the oil now. I use either Pennzoil conventional SAE 30 or Castrol HD 30 weight in our mower. Both work just fine; using a synthetic oil in a lawnmower is unnecessary in my opinion. Just use a straight 30 weight and change it again mid mowing season.

I have read that if you use a multi weight oil such as 5w or 10w to expect higher consumption.
To summarize,unless you mow commercially, I would stick with the conventional 30 weight oil.

 

[jetmech1]

Change oil now and store. I concur that synthetic is not necessary. FYI: I've been maintaining my neighbor's JD LA-145 with a Briggs engine. It's just a Briggs Intek even though it says "made exclusively for JD". Anyway, the manual says to use 10W-30, but after only 180 hrs. it started to become a "smoker" esp. at startup. I have used Shell Rotella T 15W-40 since it just about first appeared. That includes both Briggs, Honda, and Kawasaki engines. While HD-30wt will do a fine job, my experience has shown that the 15W-40 adds years additional life. I have run most of these 15+ years and the Honda almost 20 and never had to do anything except change oil and a spark plug occasionally. BTW, I pulled the 10-30 out of the neighbors engine and filled w/ the 15W-40 and it stopped smoking.

 

[Michael_P]

If it is a Tecumseh engine used in cold weather, use a 10W30. The plunger style lubrication does not do well with high oil pressures as a result of straight 30wt and cold (<20° temps). If it is a Briggs or this is being used in warmer weather, go SAE 30.

 

[david_ES2]

Ive used 10w30 mobil1 and mobil clean 5000 for many years with no consumption issues or anything on a honda gcv 160 engine craftsman mower

 

[Shannow]

I've got GC in my Briggs...Any temperature that I'm likely to need to mow would be more than adequately covered by SAE 30 mineral 'though.

I wouldn't leave dirty oil in over winter personally.

 

[SOHCman]

I've had good luck with Rotella T 5w-40 in place of a 30wt. I now use it in a briggs pushmower, and Kawasaki powered JD riding mower. Both start easier than with straight 30wt, and I have noticed an improvement in fuel consumption/run time.

 

[Cujet]

An oil like the Rotella T suggested above or Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck is ideal for lawn equipment. It contains plenty of ZDDP anti wear additive and is robust enough for air cooled engine use.

I prefer the M1, but that's only because it's commonly available at the local auto parts store. And my results with the 5W-40 M1 have been fantastic.

 

[boraticus]

Change it in the spring. There's absolutely no necessity to change it now.

Put in some straight 30 or Rotella 15W40 and that engine will last longer than the mower.

 

[Colt]

I use Amsoil 10w30 small engine oil for mowers and such.

 

[SS1970chrysler]

I change mine after the last mowing of the season or I'll run it a few minutes before changing if I didn't have time after mowing. I drain the oil, clean the plug, clean and paint under the deck, and sharpen the blade at this time. Then I refill with a good enough 30w and fill it with fresh gas and Sta-Bil. I start it and let it run a few minutes, then put it away till next year.
My Crafstman Eager-1 has always started on 1st pull even after my winter storage for 12 years now.
Currently using either Autozone or Havoline 30w

 

[Quest]

(see my older postings)

I've been running/servicing B&S mowers for ages (oldest ones serviced are running on points, circa 1960s), and never for once in my life would I abide by the use of single weight motor oil in any of the B&S motors I've done servicing with (including my own, currently have 4 B&S + 1 Honda GC). I used a garden variety of motor oil leftovers from 5W30 to 10W30 to 15W40 HDEO.

With my recent acquisition of a 6.75hp B&S (5yrs old Craftsman), I did a quick oil change (as part of the old oil flush) with my leftover GC 0W30 and has 10hrs on it now...no oil burning issue, no oil consumption issues, whatsoever.

My previou 16yrs old 4.5hp B&S on Poulan mower been running on 10W30/15W40/0W30GC leftovers for years and never have any issues with oil consumption or oil burning. I winterise it every fall before the season ends (fog the cylinder, stabil the carb and the fuel tank, etc.)

So, my point is: no need to be so rigid as to adhere with what B&S said in their manual (RE: single weight SAE30) for I know that just like Honda OPE engines (which takes multiviscosity motor oils such as 10W30, etc.), B&S can take multivisc just fine.

Q.

 

[boraticus]

Lawnmower engines will run forever on anything resembling oil. Particularly if it gets an oil change very couple years or so. Straight 30 has probably been run in literally millions of engines with a great deal of success. I wouldn't think twice about using it in a lawnmower. Anything seeing winter use is another matter. There, I'd definitely use a 5 or 10W30.

From my experience, other than running fuel out of the carb and leaving the fuel tank empty, there's no need for preparation for storage if kept in anything close to a shelter. I've got engines over 30 years old running just fine to prove it.