Liqui Moly Mos2 additive.

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Hi.
I just installed Liqui Moly Mos2 engine oil additive in my Hyundai Elantra.Very happy with the results.
Someone has told me Mos2 additive can create 'Sulfuric acid' .
Is this true? How long i can left Mos2 additive in my engine? I am planing to do 1year/15000km oil change with castrol edge 5w-30 ACEA C3,API SN rated engine oil.
Thanks in advance.
Bob.
 
really the only way to see is if you have abnormal TBN loss via UOA testing. It would be specific to your driving style and profile.
 
All UOA's i've seen with Mos2 seem to have normal TBN numbers, but as mentioned above, testing your specific vehicle is the best idea.
 
Dear Mr. Bob,

thank you very much for contacting us and your interest in our LIQUI MOLY
products.

MoS2 is a solid lubricant that creates no sulfid acids. There is absolutely
no problem to do oil range intervalls of 12 months / 15.000 km with MoS2 in
the engine oil.

We hope we could help you with our informations. Should you have further
questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted
from you again.


Best Regards

i. A.

Steffen Niemietz
Anwendungstechniker
application engineer
 
Well there you go. As I mentioned before, I've never seen a significant TBN drop with Mos2. I run Mos2 in all of the cars at my normal OCI's.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Well there you go. As I mentioned before, I've never seen a significant TBN drop with Mos2. I run Mos2 in all of the cars at my normal OCI's.

If I don't have more than 6-7 pints VSOT(Valvoline Synpower Oil Treament) I would use MOS2 in all my cars too.
 
the 'Sulfuric acid' cant be made if there is no water in the oil, most acids are water based. if the vent system works right you should not have much water in the engine. course you still have to change oil on time.
 
With the steep price increase of the Lubro Moly product, is there any downside to using super fine (~1.5 micron) MOS2 powder mixed into the oil at each OCI? Depending on the concentration you want, and what's already in the oil, you would probably use between 1/5 gram and 1/2 gram of powder per quart of oil.

You can buy a pound for about $50 from a wholesale supplier, and 6 oz. for less than $30 from a shooting supply store.

I'm genuinely curious to hear others' thoughts on this.
 
Originally Posted By: yesthatsteve
With the steep price increase of the Lubro Moly product, is there any downside to using super fine (~1.5 micron) MOS2 powder mixed into the oil at each OCI? Depending on the concentration you want, and what's already in the oil, you would probably use between 1/5 gram and 1/2 gram of powder per quart of oil.

You can buy a pound for about $50 from a wholesale supplier, and 6 oz. for less than $30 from a shooting supply store.

I'm genuinely curious to hear others' thoughts on this.


I spent several hours yesterday scouring sporting goods stores for powdered moly for just this purpose, but was completely unable to find some. I did find some on eBay pretty inexpensively at roughly $18 shipped for 4oz of ultra fine 98.8% pure powder. I want to use it in some gear oil, so I plan to mix a tablespoon of it into a quart of 75w-140 to see if it will settle out or stay in suspension. If it stays mixed for at least a couple of days, I intend to use some in my rear differential, as well as my power transfer unit. I will also use it for an inexpensive replacement for Lubro Moly MoS2 because of its insane price increase.
 
For MoS2 to turn into acid, it has to oxidize rapidly and form molybdenum trioxide as a byproduct. It will then only turn into molybdic acid if it is hydrated.

That said, for MoS2 to oxidize, it has to see temperatures in excess of 370 Celsius!!
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: yesthatsteve
With the steep price increase of the Lubro Moly product, is there any downside to using super fine (~1.5 micron) MOS2 powder mixed into the oil at each OCI? Depending on the concentration you want, and what's already in the oil, you would probably use between 1/5 gram and 1/2 gram of powder per quart of oil.

You can buy a pound for about $50 from a wholesale supplier, and 6 oz. for less than $30 from a shooting supply store.

I'm genuinely curious to hear others' thoughts on this.


I spent several hours yesterday scouring sporting goods stores for powdered moly for just this purpose, but was completely unable to find some. I did find some on eBay pretty inexpensively at roughly $18 shipped for 4oz of ultra fine 98.8% pure powder. I want to use it in some gear oil, so I plan to mix a tablespoon of it into a quart of 75w-140 to see if it will settle out or stay in suspension. If it stays mixed for at least a couple of days, I intend to use some in my rear differential, as well as my power transfer unit. I will also use it for an inexpensive replacement for Lubro Moly MoS2 because of its insane price increase.


Google Rosemill Industries. While its not cheap you can buy ultra fine grade moly which won't get trapped by an oil filter, sold by the pound. I bought it for coating bullets and have also mixed it with MMO or oil for treating engines. I bought it long before the popularity of LM MoS2 on this board, I'm pretty sure its gone up in price, but might still be worth it for you. HTH
 
Or you can buy Ceratec for $30 and forget about it for 30k miles. Not MoS2,but simular. Haven't notice difference between 2 exept for price and color (Ceratec looks like peach drinkable yogurt). They claim it is more superior then moly, and will stay for 30k miles. Will see how my next UOA will look like.
 
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