2006 Accord, 4 cylinder code P0420

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I've had problems with P0430 cat code and it ended up being a O2 sensor.

Replaced it and no problems for a few years until the other week when the truck threw the code while it was idling. I had a tank of old gas that I went through (very hard to start in below freezing mornings) and then put in fresh fuel. Cleared the code and couple hundred miles the ECM went to ready with no code.

If he clears it (which I would NOT have done in a vehicle that has a warranty) and it does not come back it may have been something like I just experienced.

Bill
 
FWIW, when my CR-V started throwing this code, I replaced both the upstream sensor and the cat, using a cheap aftermarket alternatives for both. The code kept coming back UNTIL I replaced the front sensor again with an OEM Denso unit. So I have no idea if it really WAS just the front O2 sensor or the cat. Maybe I threw more money at it than necessary, but it was still cheaper than a new OEM cat, which I still assume probably was to blame since my CR-V has always had minor consumption issues...
 
Update - was getting ready to take the car for it's state emissions inspection yesterday morning. Checked the computer, all clear, no codes stored or pending. Got to the emissions place, it was closed. Later in the day my wife was running errands, tells me the CEL came back on. I checked and it was P0420 again. Got it to the dealer, they checked it this morning and are replacing the cat for free under the 8/80 warranty. A fine resolution!

jeff
 
Originally Posted By: greenjp
Update - ...Got it to the dealer, they checked it this morning and are replacing the cat for free under the 8/80 warranty. A fine resolution!

Good news for you! As I said a couple of pages ago, this is a ONE-TIME warranty replacement. This new cat probably only has a 1-year warranty, even though it's identical to what left the factory.

There are a couple of things you can do to prolong the life of your new cat. Ask here if you wish to know what they are.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
There are a couple of things you can do to prolong the life of your new cat. Ask here if you wish to know what they are.

I'd love to. I'm curious because my 2003 Saab 9-5 with 157k miles is still on the original cat. Actually the entire exhaust system on that car is original. Not doing anything differently with the Accord but am open to suggestions!

jeff
 
Originally Posted By: greenjp
Originally Posted By: Tegger
There are a couple of things you can do to prolong the life of your new cat. Ask here if you wish to know what they are.

I'd love to. I'm curious because my 2003 Saab 9-5 with 157k miles is still on the original cat. Actually the entire exhaust system on that car is original. Not doing anything differently with the Accord but am open to suggestions!

The key to maximum cat life is to have as complete combustion as possible at each combustion event. Poor combustion results in much larger amounts of raw gas entering the cat than the cat was intended to handle, and each poor-combustion event causes a tiny amount of damage. A poor-combustion event is known as a "misfire", whether you feel anything or not as it happens. Misfire damage accumulates over the years and appreciably shortens cat life. The OBD-II system is pretty good at detecting misfires, but misfire codes only set once misfire events reach a certain threshold.

The important thing to remember is that misfire damage is cumulative. Cumulative cat-damage will occur at misfire levels below that which would trigger misfire error-codes. A situation that results in one misfire is just about guaranteed to result in many over time, if not corrected.

Catalytic converter surfaces are extremely porous, sort of like a sponge, in order to produce maximum reactive surface-area within the volume of the element. Misfires damage the cat by causing that porous surface to melt and erode, which greatly reduces reactive surface-area.

Four things you can do to prevent those damaging misfires are to:
1) never allow the gas tank level to get too low, or to run dry;
2) pay very particular attention to ignition high-tension system maintenance, servicing it at least as often as the manual says, and more often if possible;
3) use only OE (genuine Honda) engine/ignition parts;
4) perform proactive inspection of your EGR system (if so equipped).

Your Honda's Owner Manual should warn you against the first. If the gas tank level gets too low--and this can occur well before the low-fuel light comes on--the possibility increases of the fuel pump briefly but repeatedly sucking air. Each time this happens, fuel-pressure drops enough to cause lean-misfires which dump raw gas into the cat. The MIL will not illuminate when this happens, and you may not feel anything wrong.

Running out of gas is the worst thing you can do to the cat, since that results in an extended series of misfires as the fuel pump fights to maintain pressure and the engine keeps stuttering and running.

Worn, aged, or poor-quality aftermarket ignition components can cause misfires, and can also throw extra load on the coils.

Clogged EGR passages (from the EGR valve to the cylinders) can also cause misfires, if the blockages result in only one or two cylinders being denied exhaust gases(which usually means the others are receiving an excess). This is not necessarily detected by the OBD-II system, but will show up as elevated NO and HC in an emissions test.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Honda are prone to egr passage block


This is very true. I know YT has a channel that has the instructions for removing the blockage but I can't find it right now.
 
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