running rich in cold start

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Another possibility is a coolant sensor is out of range.
This may not be the gauge sensor - I am referring to the sensor that talks to the computer.
If it keeps telling the computer the engine is colder than it really is, you will run rich.

And Hyundai cats do stink on start up more than others.
 
You can test the air and coolant temp sensor. Measure the ohms when cold started and then again in 2 mins and the ohms should go up Atleast by 200 . If I remember correctly that is a general way of doing it
 
how about an exhaust or vacuum leak? Air getting in and not being metered by the map or exhaust leaking prior to the O2 sensor?
 
"Rich" smelling exhaust is normal on cold starts. How about you take your car in to get diagnosed if you think there is an issue.

@Others
plugged cat: He's not mentioning driveability issues.
lazy o2: Oxygen sensor "switching" is monitored by the pcm and sets code if response/switching is delayed.
Thermostat stuck open: PCM also monitors for time it takes for engine to reach operating temperature, sets code if excessive time or large temperature drop during cruisng.
coolant sensor "out of range": Would throw code in a heart beat.
worn cam lobes: Most likely would set misfire codes and cause driveability issues.
Exhaust Leaks: Pretty obvious.
You guys gotta remember newer cars are pretty good as far as monitoring the powertrain and emission systems, MOST OF THE TIME if anything is outside its parameters a code is set.

etc etc etc...

How about your driving habits?
 
I agree with Bladecutter. Specifically I think the CTS -coolant Temp Sensor is lazy or inoperative. I can't understand why you aren't getting a code indication. You may want to check again. The CTS acts like a choke in the days of the Carb: it enrichens the mixture when the engine is cold and then leans it when up to oper. temp. Note-- there may be two CTS- one for the computer with two wires, and one for the coolant temp. gauge with only one wire. Of course, you want to test or replace the one that talks to the computer.
 
No CEL? No codes? Car getting 18.3mpg....clean the MAF sensor then get 2 Bottles of Redline SI1 and dose a full tank of Shell 94 with a whole bottle and give that engine an Italian tune up for at least 50 miles. Really blow it out at least 20 times. Then use 1/2 of the second bottle of Redline in the next 2 tanks of gas. If you can't find Redline...use 1-2 cans of seafoam to the tank of gas and go 100 miles at 120-140km/hr.
shocked.gif
 
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either your wideband O2 sensor (the upstream one) is lazy, or your coolant temperature sensor is faulty, or your thermostat is not functionally fit for the job.

Again: the only way to check the 2nd part is to get a scanner capable to do the job; for the last suspect: take it on a highway spin and let us know if your temperature needle drops (no more heat in your cabin)?

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Spahr
I agree with Bladecutter. Specifically I think the CTS -coolant Temp Sensor is lazy or inoperative. I can't understand why you aren't getting a code indication. You may want to check again. The CTS acts like a choke in the days of the Carb: it enrichens the mixture when the engine is cold and then leans it when up to oper. temp. Note-- there may be two CTS- one for the computer with two wires, and one for the coolant temp. gauge with only one wire. Of course, you want to test or replace the one that talks to the computer.


Subtle rephrasing.
 
I do have some drivability problems. Like I said before, some times the car seems like I have no power and other times it has power. Seems like the engine is struggling and load and then fine. The CAT smelt like rotten eggs before and now doesn't. The coolant sensor has just been replaced a few weeks ago. The car does give out cool air sometimes even driving around city, and is much hotter driving. The temperature gauge still moves to the normal range pretty quick. Thermostat could be a problem but right now I am wondering why it smells quite rich, more so now then last year same time,when the car is cold and started. Map sensor and throttle body were already cleaned out with sea foam as well as sea foam added to the tank. The O2 sensor looks like it is the original. How can you tell if the exhaust manifold is leaking and sucking in air. There is a stud that snapped off on the corner that hold the exhaust manifold in place but was told it was not leaking. don't knwo about now.

Thank you everyone for all the help
 
The air/fuel sensors used in the manifold location in California spec cars (don't know what your standard is in Canada) are more complicated than the old "49 State" O2 sensors, and do get lazy without tripping the CEL even if the failure to "flip" is causing the engine to backfire and stall. This is a famous (except to the dealers) problem with 97-2001 I4 Camrys and usually happens when the engine has been run long enough to warm up, shut off, and then restarted shortly after. Doesn't happen in real cold or real hot weather, spring and fall are the most common. The cure is a new sensor, they usually last about 75 to 100 k miles, Denso and NGK make good ones, Bosch has been known to repackage NGKs.
The rear- after the cat- sensor is the one which looks for high emissions, and triggers the CEL, but they seem to last forever. Often the heater fails on the rear sensor before the sensor itself. This info may not help you, when these front sensors fail to "flip" they fail to flip from lean back to rich, which doesn't seem to be your problem, but it may be good info for others. When the engine first starts it runs in "open loop" for a brief period of time depending on temp, and ignores the A/F so sometimes the car runs OK for a bit and then gets into lean/stall. If you can keep it going it will warm up enough that engine temp matches the sensor input and the problem goes away until the next cycle. The strange thing is the engine will idle OK but stall as soon as the throttle is opened. Flooring it, (not a good idea in traffic) sends the system back into open loop and doing that for a few seconds will usually get the sensor working properly again, but, again, you can't do that in traffic. The first time this happened to one of our Camrys I made the mistake of taking it to a dealer, they replaced everything BUT the front sensor. I changed that myself after reading about lazy sensors. When the same thing happened with the other Camry I knew exactly what to do.
 
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Do what mechtech says. Replace the 2 wire CTS. They are cheap and easy to replace. If it doesn't fix it, then at least you have eliminated it from a slew of possibilities. I normally try to do more diagnosis before condemning a part. But this situation is different. A clogged cat would give a vacuum gauge a low reading.
 
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it is normal to run rich at first start in the am..runs rich it also can blow out a tad of blue smoke that smells sweet and fuel like...my new truck does that on occasion..neighbors 2011 new car does that too.
 
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