How to Glock 17 Field Strip and Reassemble Video

[shooter250]

Here is a how to video I made showing the steps to disassemble and reassemble a Glock 17. I hope this is helpful to new gun owners who have purchased this.




I just found out about a recall on the Gen 4 Glocks from the following thread.
http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2441025#Post2441025

 

[chevrofreak]

All Glocks use a captive recoil spring. The Gen4's uses a double recoil spring for the rest of the models, not just the subcompacts.

 

[ChrisD46]

Recently had a chance to buy a new G17 gen 4 OR a G17 gen 3 ...I opted for the new gen 3 as I feel there are continuing issues with the gen 4 . How many spring revisions is Glock up to on the gen 4 ? - I count two or three now since the model was released .

 

[wsar10]

as said before all GLOCK's have a captive recoil rod, the gen4's use a dual stage much like the older sub-compact 45 (model 30).
there are a few difference's from gen 3-4

now than, first off the gun should be dry fired before take down, not have the trigger pulled while removing the slide

second, you should grasp the gun with one hand by the grip and wrap your index, middle and ring finger up over the slide to pull the slide back and than use your other index finger and thumb to pull down on the slide release,

third, before reasembly you need to "reset" the triger bar by pushing on the top of the connector to the left until the trigger bar pops out over the connector

 

[shooter250]

I apologize for the inaccurate data on the captive spring guide rod. I thought this was new to the Gen 4.

I did not know I needed to reset the trigger bar before reattaching the slide.

Thanks for the info.

 

[chevrofreak]

You do not need to reset anything before reassembling it; that's why the slide has ramps on both ends of the part that contacts the connector.

I, too, find that holding the gun the way wsar10 describes works best.

 

[wsar10]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
You do not need to reset anything before reassembling it; that's why the slide has ramps on both ends of the part that contacts the connector.

I, too, find that holding the gun the way wsar10 describes works best.

the GLOCK armor's course begs to differ !

I never reset the connector for many years, until I saw the armor's course.

 

[chevrofreak]

The only reason to reset it is to oil it. It isn't going to hurt a thing if you don't.

 

[bubbatime]

You pulled the trigger while the gun was pointing at your hand/wrist. Major FAIL! You always check that it is unloaded, THEN point the gun in a safe direction and pull the trigger.

 

[shooter250]

I appreciate the feedback. I'll take it offline and redo the video.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
The only reason to reset it is to oil it. It isn't going to hurt a thing if you don't.


Completely and utterly correct.

Think about the "normal" firing mode ...
Pull trigger, trigger is held back, slide cycles full rearward and then forward to slide lock, you then reset trigger for another fire sequence if desired. The connector is cycled by the slide ramps.

The only thing "different" about the field strip is that after you pulled the trigger and held it back, the slide didn't stop at the lock, as you assisted it in coming off the frame. Then, when time to reassemble, you cycle the slide all the way to the rear, and then it moves back into battery at the slide lock, just as it would in a "normal" firing sequence.

The position of the connector does not matter; it gets reset when the slide goes past.

 

[wsar10]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
The only reason to reset it is to oil it. It isn't going to hurt a thing if you don't.


Completely and utterly correct.

Think about the "normal" firing mode ...
Pull trigger, trigger is held back, slide cycles full rearward and then forward to slide lock, you then reset trigger for another fire sequence if desired. The connector is cycled by the slide ramps.

The only thing "different" about the field strip is that after you pulled the trigger and held it back, the slide didn't stop at the lock, as you assisted it in coming off the frame. Then, when time to reassemble, you cycle the slide all the way to the rear, and then it moves back into battery at the slide lock, just as it would in a "normal" firing sequence.

The position of the connector does not matter; it gets reset when the slide goes past.

Not sure that I disagree about the need of the trigger bar being reset for field striping, The armor's course is very clear about the bar being put in reset for reassembly.

the connector does not move "per say", but the trigger bar is definitely not thrown above the catch on the connector (reset) when the slide goes past it.

 

[dnewton3]

OK - perhaps I misunderstood the topic. Heck - I've been wrong before, so it can happen again.

The position of the connector does not matter; I stand by that.

The position of the trigger does matter somewhat. It changes the position of the trigger bar that clearly effects the position of the projection that manipulates the firing pin safety. It is more difficult to reassemble if the trigger is forward; moving it back eases the job. That, I agree with. To move the trigger rearward with no slide on the frame, hold the trigger forward by pinching it on the sides, then use a finger to depress the "trigger safety", and only then move the trigger to the rear. That will keep from damaging the trigger safety.