Mobil 1 can clean all sludge within one OCI

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
For cleaning purposes only wouldn't a diesel oil work best. It's a question before I get jumped on. I would assume due to how dirty diesel burns that lets say rotella t-6 would clean better and keep the deposits in a suspension until it gets filtered.


I agree. All things being equal, I wouldn't even bother with the synthetic or semi-synthetic HDEO, weather conditions permitting. I'd stick with a 10w-30 or 15w-40 HDEO over a few short OCIs. My cleaning regimen for my sludged Ford 300 before the rebuild was MaxLife semi-synthetic 5w-30 for winter, followed by Delvac Super 15w-40 for the summer, all with short OCIs. It worked extremely well. The rebuilder said you could eat off the oil pan, and has never seen an engine so clean, yet with so many things wrong with it.
 
I have 2 antidotes related this subject.

The first I bought my X5 with 84,000 miles on it. The first day I drained the oil and it looked like choclate pudding. Under the oil cap I could see sludge. I ran M1 5w-30 for 500 miles then drained that oil and ran Mobil1 for 3000 miles and in just 3500 miles I cleaned up the engine as evidenced by pulling the valve cover and seeing a very clean valve train.

Second, I was using a putty knife that was caked with old roofing tar for like 20 years. I slipped and dropped the tool into the pan that I used for the oil drain. The next day when I went to cllean up, I pulled out the knife and the tar was all soft. With a paper towel I wiped it of and all the tar came with it. TRUE STORY!!

That my friends made me a believer!!
 
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Actually the latest-model Fords have subpar reliability, as it was reported by Consumer Reports recently.


CR went on to explain that this decrease in reliability rating was due to all the trouble people have with that "Sync" system that is supposed to do a lot of things by voice commands. To me, another idea marketed before it was ready, along with DI.



I'm glad you pointed out that the drop in satisfaction is mostly SYNC related.....If I bought a new Focus (and I might) it wouldn't have SYNC and it would probably have a manual transmission (since I'm not sure about the long term prospects of DSG automatics).
I drove a rented 2012 Focus recently and I was very impressed.

I think that any name brand oil will keep your engine clean if changed regularly (except maybe VWs which have an engineering issue IMO)..
If I bought a used car that needed some cleaning, I would run a few OCIs of PU or M1 or else Auto-RX it.

PS: I would like to hear from ArcoGraphite on how he 'killed' a new Ford engine....I don't think it's possible unless he ran it minus oil....
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I'm glad you pointed out that the drop in satisfaction is mostly SYNC related.....If I bought a new Focus (and I might) it wouldn't have SYNC and it would probably have a manual transmission (since I'm not sure about the long term prospects of DSG automatics).


The last place I'd allow a MS product is in my vehicle's electronics, even if only the entertainment system. Most of these high end "technology packages" are utter garbage, anyhow.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
For cleaning purposes only wouldn't a diesel oil work best. It's a question before I get jumped on. I would assume due to how dirty diesel burns that lets say rotella t-6 would clean better and keep the deposits in a suspension until it gets filtered.


That's exactly what I'm doing (Delo400 5-40 synthetic). When I have a reason to pull the valve cover (not for a couple years hopefully) I'll find out if it looks any better.
 
I do not have experience with other oils when it comes to how clean but this was my result of Mobil1 synthetic 10w-30 in my 89 Integra transmission. (FSM calls for motor oil or Honda MTF)

gear1.jpg


gear6.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Aw, it's so cute. Yet...motor oil is generally only recommended as a 'temporary' substitute to MTF.


Right out of the Factory Service Manual and if you still don't believe me go look at g1teg.org in the how to section and find the pdf and page 13-3

Aint this cute being pwned by a noob to the forum?

tranny.jpg
 
Interesting, I wonder if that was before HG MTF I came out? *hint*

Probably, because the revised manuals online for my '92 hatch mentions exactly what I described. Certainly, it's easy to see the advantages of using a more suitable lube, MTF, than motor oil. = pwned. ...Honda knew this and did something about it.

I'm just trying to HELP you, of course motor oil works. I was just throwing out there something perhaps you would be interested in know, ie a better/more suitable fluid for your MT?

I'm using Amsoil Synchromesh MTF right now(5w-30 range)

PS: 20w-40? SE or SF grade?! Ha! Yeah, I'd say it's outdated and been revised. I bet Honda recommends MTF now for that same app. That's my point. Your manual isn't a holy book, you know. It is relevant, but not absolute. Just as in it's recommended to use MTF for your Honda MT these days(even older trannys) than just motor oil(which went from use, to 'temp' use only).

PPS: Welcome to BITOG!
welcome2.gif


ADDED: My 'cute' remark was with regards to the Transmission...?

EDIT: In your OP, you mentioned that your FSM said MTF, but I'm not seeing that either? That must be the original before HG MTF came out???
 
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If you want to go through the rest of the FSM you can find it mention about Honda MTF. I ended up going back to dino as the M1 was so slick that the brass syncros could not grab when I would try and fast shift.

I have been a lurker for a long time and finally signed up.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Provi
If you want to go through the rest of the FSM you can find it mention about Honda MTF. I ended up going back to dino as the M1 was so slick that the brass syncros could not grab when I would try and fast shift.

I have been a lurker for a long time and finally signed up.
smile.gif



^I would seriously be interested in your experience if you switched to an MTF, one that is suitable anyway. The S2000s have a couple of Amsoil MTF users on here, posted in the VOA section I believe?, and it gives some figures about thickness, etc. INDYMAC liked the improved shift quality and longevity of the fluid. I noticed Honda Genuine improved shift more, BUT it only lasted so long and got more notchy. The Amsoil stays 'solid' longer. I believe the Friction Modifiers must wear out?
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: Provi
If you want to go through the rest of the FSM you can find it mention about Honda MTF. I ended up going back to dino as the M1 was so slick that the brass syncros could not grab when I would try and fast shift.

I have been a lurker for a long time and finally signed up.
smile.gif



^I would seriously be interested in your experience if you switched to an MTF, one that is suitable anyway. The S2000s have a couple of Amsoil MTF users on here, posted in the VOA section I believe?, and it gives some figures about thickness, etc. INDYMAC liked the improved shift quality and longevity of the fluid. I noticed Honda Genuine improved shift more, BUT it only lasted so long and got more notchy. The Amsoil stays 'solid' longer. I believe the Friction Modifiers must wear out?
21.gif


I wish I had a s2000, I am cheap and ended up putting ST HM 10w-40 in it and has shifted very good IMHO.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The New 2011 Ford 2.3L is dead already. But you all know ILSAC oil is priority 1 fuel economy, dang the torpedos!


You can't be taken seriously Arco. You have to be a troll, or you're not telling us about this...

You Call me a Troll, boy? The engine didnt seem healthy probably from its birth in Spain. I should have done my research. Mazda engines I dont like an thats a mazda engine. Also it was raining almost for 2 months after I bought it and I think the waste spark coil was cross firing. Also It had a unresolved HG leak which caused knocking when running in the morning startup as the fluid poured out the exhaust. Went back twice, dealer did nothing to resolve the issues. I even asked for an alignment and it showed toe out at max allowed for total toe and they wouldnt correct it - even though it was on the lift. Well at least I ran MC-SS and factory filters and one try at QSGB no funny stuff. BTW my wifes subaru has a hard hot knock in the engine when fully warm. Another certain 20 weight death.
 
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
I'm not actually going to argue which oil is superior. I would just say that certain folks posting in this thread run to the defense of the M1 mighty quickly. People know that if that was a picture from an engine with Amsoil some folks would be on it like stink on an outhouse.

As for the M1 ad? Marketing. I think a change of anyoil would rinse that out.

Interesting.
Here is my anecdotal experience: I ran Amsoil signature series for over 100k miles in 4.6 Triton motor. 19 -20 thousand miles per year@ 90-95 percent cruise control miles. No oil analysis. One day at 125k miles I decided to peep in oil fill on valve cover, and found nothing but varnish (everywhere visible), and caked-on carbon deposits on cam holds.

I knew I exceeded the limit for oil by this, and I blame myself for not sending in a sample on the first crack.

Amsoil is great, but I should have shortened this up.

So, I swithched to MotorCraft semi- dino 20 weight from Wally mart. Ran this for 15k - (5k OCI till now @ 140k) and no clean up. Now I'm into 300 miles on Auto rx in conjunction with Pennzoil Ultra( dino).

Motorcraft didn't clean up a thing, but maybe this is a nice tradeoff for low Fe content for the many Blackstone reports?
 
Hello everyone, so what a lot of you are suggesting is that Mobil One is the "best" oil a person can get. I know it has a lot of fans on this site, some even get angry if anyone misspells the name. I don't think I agree but I'm new here and want to learn, so if it is the greatest why do people use anything else or is it just an opinion.?. Sometimes it is hard to separate facts from opinions.
 
Originally Posted By: ToddGak1
Hello everyone, so what a lot of you are suggesting is that Mobil One is the "best" oil a person can get.


I'm a Mobil 1 fan, but "best" depends upon one's own definition and one's own applications. Specifications, available grades, general availability, manufacturer's requirements, oil change interval, and price all play a part of what one chooses.

While I'm a Mobil 1 fan, if you check my signature, you'll see I'm not using any Mobil products right now. Mobil 1 5w-30 would be great in my G. Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w-40 would be great in my old truck. However, I simply cannot justify the cost of synthetics for my oil change intervals.

So, I use "something else" because Mobil 1 wouldn't pay, nor would any other synthetic. In a related note, why am I not using Mobil conventionals? Well, for the old truck, I do have Mobil Delvac 15w-40 for the summer. For the G, Mobil 1000 5w-30 conventional is available at very good regular prices up here. PYB on rollback (and QS before that) was too cheap to pass up and both are great products. My Walmarts do not carry Mobil conventional.

As for synthetics, most are very, very good. Mobil 1 certainly has the brand recognition and is a quality product. Some choose Amsoil because they want to go for very long OCIs. Some choose Red Line because they drive the car hard. Some choose Pennzoil Platinum because of price and availability. Some use Royal Purple because of a different additive pack. Mobil 1 is often chosen for brand recognition and the fact that they have a product for just about every application out there.
 
Thanks Garak for your explanation, at least you say why you like it . I have tried Mobil One in the past and to be honest I couldn't tell if it was any better than anything else.
 
Originally Posted By: ToddGak1
Thanks Garak for your explanation, at least you say why you like it . I have tried Mobil One in the past and to be honest I couldn't tell if it was any better than anything else.


In your application, it may not have been.
 
Originally Posted By: ToddGak1
I have tried Mobil One in the past and to be honest I couldn't tell if it was any better than anything else.


That's pretty much what most people will experience. As long as one is using the appropriate grade with the appropriate certifications, one should not be able to tell the difference between oils. I've never had vehicles in good mechanical condition run any different on different oils, or even a fresh oil change. Some people have stated they notice different sounds or feels, but I don't. In my experience, at least with respect to sound, feel, and fuel economy, I've noticed no difference between Mobil 1, Royal Purple, PYB, QSGB, or GTX.

Another thing I like about Mobil 1 is the availability, at least up here. If one wants a synthetic that one can find very easily and reliably just about anywhere, Mobil 1 is it. I can find Mobil 1 at a grocery store. I cannot find Pennzoil Ultra anywhere.
 
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