Hey guys so I started reading and apparently if I change my master cylinder fluid my shifting would improve. Right now at high rpms it takes some force to shift. But Ive never done this . How do I drain the fluid and all that any and all help is appreciated its on my Saturn sl2
how to change clutch master cylinder fluid
- Thread starter Dakota1820
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You need to locate the bleeder bolt on the clutch cylinder, follow the line off the reservoir down to the transmission, on the piston that moves the throwout bearing, you will find a little bolt on the end with a little black cover, take this off, this is your "bleeder bolt."
The procedure will take two people, someone to push the clutch pedal down/ let it out, and one to open/close the bolt
You will need to open the bolt with approx. an 8mm wrench, then tell the person in the car to push down the clutch slowly, fluid should shoot out, when he gets the pedal to the ground, close the bolt, then tell him "up." make sure to be watching the reservoir's fluid level and make sure not to let it run dry and suck up air. Repeat until you flush through about an 8oz can of dot 3 or 4 or hydraulic clutch fluid, then shut the bleeder tight, then put the cap back on the end of the bleeder and take it out for a spin to see if it fixed the issue.
*** Sorry if I explained it like you were dumb, but it is easier to go further in depth than necessary than to leave the question half answered, hope this helps!!
The procedure will take two people, someone to push the clutch pedal down/ let it out, and one to open/close the bolt
You will need to open the bolt with approx. an 8mm wrench, then tell the person in the car to push down the clutch slowly, fluid should shoot out, when he gets the pedal to the ground, close the bolt, then tell him "up." make sure to be watching the reservoir's fluid level and make sure not to let it run dry and suck up air. Repeat until you flush through about an 8oz can of dot 3 or 4 or hydraulic clutch fluid, then shut the bleeder tight, then put the cap back on the end of the bleeder and take it out for a spin to see if it fixed the issue.
*** Sorry if I explained it like you were dumb, but it is easier to go further in depth than necessary than to leave the question half answered, hope this helps!!
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So its exactly like doing brakes? I figured it was just never done it. The bleeder should be on the slave cylinder right? And to make sure I understand to flush the old fluid just let it go out of the bleeder screw?
Yes. It's like doing brake flush, let the old fluid go out of the clutch cylinder bleeder screw, and the reservoir is not empty at any tine.
Well one problem I just learned saturns don't have bleeder its a sealed unit. Hmmm that's stupid.
The easiest and safest way to change clutch fluid is to gravity bleed it. Open the bleeder if equipt and let it drain keeping the resiverior full, not to allow air into the system. I would not pump the pedal unless there is air already in the system. If that's the case you might have to reverse bleed the system, which is a PITA. Also some systems are sealed and there is no way to bleed or change the fluid. Hope this helps someone with a clutch system that has a bleeder.
Some clutch hydraulics are designed to be self bleeding. (not sure that it works well).
My Jaguar X-Type is a self bleeding system. It has a small accumulator in the middle of the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The accumulator is hollow inside, about the diameter of a silver dollar and has semi flexible steel sides.
The system is designed to trap bubbles here and then they are supposed to work up to the reservoir over time. It does work, because I removed the accumulator to clean it. I watched the bubbles come up after each actuation.
I simply suck out the brake fluid from the reservoir, and pour in new. I do this a few times a year. It gets dirty quickly, so I know there is some fluid exchange.
My Jaguar X-Type is a self bleeding system. It has a small accumulator in the middle of the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. The accumulator is hollow inside, about the diameter of a silver dollar and has semi flexible steel sides.
The system is designed to trap bubbles here and then they are supposed to work up to the reservoir over time. It does work, because I removed the accumulator to clean it. I watched the bubbles come up after each actuation.
I simply suck out the brake fluid from the reservoir, and pour in new. I do this a few times a year. It gets dirty quickly, so I know there is some fluid exchange.
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Cujet -
I am not sure that is a self bleeder. Any air is still in the system, with the same exact results as a straight line.
Being the only car in the world with such a system, I can not make sense of it right now. And the vast majority other car mfr apparently can't , either.
I am not sure that is a self bleeder. Any air is still in the system, with the same exact results as a straight line.
Being the only car in the world with such a system, I can not make sense of it right now. And the vast majority other car mfr apparently can't , either.
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