Ive just currently purchased a 2012 jeep wrangler jk with the 3.6 pentastar engine. I need you guys to recomend me a good oil and and good break in method? The jeep has 400 miles on it right now and ive been doing alot of mixed city and highway driving trying to vary the rpms. How many miles should i run the factory fill? The engine requires 5w-30 and i would like to run a synthetic so if you guys could share some of your knowledge and point me in the right direction that would be really helpful. Take it easy on me this is my first post. Also my driving habbits are mostly city in stop and go and the rest of it is offroading in 4WDL it may see some highway once a month. Thanks in advance for your help.
Pentastar 3.6 what oil and best break in method?
- Thread starter vinsonclarkjeep
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What does the owners manual say about break in?
Originally Posted By: Chris142
What does the owners manual say about break in?
My owners manual doesnt say anything about break in. Ive only looked at it once although i will look at it again tomorrow.
What does the owners manual say about break in?
My owners manual doesnt say anything about break in. Ive only looked at it once although i will look at it again tomorrow.
Originally Posted By: Thax
Pennzoil Platinum gets my vote , meets all the specs your pentastar needs . Both API SN , ILSAC GF-5 and Chrysler's own spec.
Whats the difference between platinum and ultra? Is one better than the other?
Pennzoil Platinum gets my vote , meets all the specs your pentastar needs . Both API SN , ILSAC GF-5 and Chrysler's own spec.
Whats the difference between platinum and ultra? Is one better than the other?
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Originally Posted By: Thax
Pennzoil Platinum gets my vote , meets all the specs your pentastar needs . Both API SN , ILSAC GF-5 and Chrysler's own spec.
Whats the difference between platinum and ultra? Is one better than the other?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-product-and-gf-5-qa/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-ultra-qa/
Originally Posted By: Thax
Pennzoil Platinum gets my vote , meets all the specs your pentastar needs . Both API SN , ILSAC GF-5 and Chrysler's own spec.
Whats the difference between platinum and ultra? Is one better than the other?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-product-and-gf-5-qa/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-ultra-qa/
If you are breaking it in use a conventional. Too much lubricity isn't always good in the beginning. I know this isn't a rebuild or a street-rod but if you want to break it right use a conventional and take it on a highway (with little traffic as possible and keep it cycling between 45-50 to 65-70. Do that at least 6-7 times and hitting the gas and letting it slow. You have a short window to seat the rings properly. Nice engine. I think I am going to get a Chrysler 200 V6 myself so I will keep in touch.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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One thing to keep in mind. The Pentastar engine has no freeze out plugs. When they mfg them, they had some issues early on with cleaning out materials used in casting the block and other mfg debris. So change the oil and filter early.
As far as break in goes vary speed, and get on it a little once you've warmed it up. If you can drive on hilly roads that's better IMO. At 400 miles it is pretty much broken in already. Nice engine, I plan on getting a Rubicon in 2013.
As far as break in goes vary speed, and get on it a little once you've warmed it up. If you can drive on hilly roads that's better IMO. At 400 miles it is pretty much broken in already. Nice engine, I plan on getting a Rubicon in 2013.
From Chrysler owners manual:
Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended
oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended
maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes
are followed.
Materials Added To Engine Oils
Do not add any supplemental materials, other than leak
detection dyes, to your engine oil. Engine oil is an
engineered product and it’s performance may be impaired
by supplemental additives.
Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils provided the recommended
oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended
maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes
are followed.
Materials Added To Engine Oils
Do not add any supplemental materials, other than leak
detection dyes, to your engine oil. Engine oil is an
engineered product and it’s performance may be impaired
by supplemental additives.
I was surprised to see them go for the 5W-30 in this engine. The 2009-2010 3.7 engines used 5W-20 and it works well in my Grand Cherokee. But when my 2012 Limited finally gets here, it will be 5W-30 SN/GF-5. The same oil I sell to the Jeep dealer.
Leave the oil for 3 K and go drive it hard. I know you guys feel warm and fuzzy with 500Mi oil changes but it's not doing anything but draining your wallet.
At 3000 switch to syn if you desire and use the manufactures rec OCI while in warranty.
At 3000 switch to syn if you desire and use the manufactures rec OCI while in warranty.
OP -- you'll hear opinions on both sides,i.e. change oil early or wait until the OLM "tells you" to change it.
as far as the best break in method -- at 400 mi., it's already broken in. ideally, don't baby it, or use WOT during break in.the key is to vary speeds (rpm's) during this time to properly seat the rings.
many still believe that it takes 5 or 7 or 10k. mi. to break in an engine. could be the same ones that believe in astrology, or palm reading.
at any rate, good luck with your new vehicle. the pentastar is a very good engine.
as far as the best break in method -- at 400 mi., it's already broken in. ideally, don't baby it, or use WOT during break in.the key is to vary speeds (rpm's) during this time to properly seat the rings.
many still believe that it takes 5 or 7 or 10k. mi. to break in an engine. could be the same ones that believe in astrology, or palm reading.
at any rate, good luck with your new vehicle. the pentastar is a very good engine.
City stop and go driving style puts more stress on the vehicle. Especially brakes and transmission so keep up with routine maintenance on those.
If Jeep puts your driving style in the severe service category you may decide to run short intervals, using conventional oil to save money. If you do do this, consider running 5w-20 or 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 because current formulations are too volatile and too much burns off leaving deposits and soot inside of engines.
If Jeep puts your driving style in the severe service category you may decide to run short intervals, using conventional oil to save money. If you do do this, consider running 5w-20 or 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 because current formulations are too volatile and too much burns off leaving deposits and soot inside of engines.
Originally Posted By: jorton
City stop and go driving style puts more stress on the vehicle. Especially brakes and transmission so keep up with routine maintenance on those.
If Jeep puts your driving style in the severe service category you may decide to run short intervals, using conventional oil to save money. If you do do this, consider running 5w-20 or 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 because current formulations are too volatile and too much burns off leaving deposits and soot inside of engines.
You took the words out of my keyboard.
As for break in, it is best to run it hard once it warms up, and to vary the speed as much as possible. The point is to elevate cylinder pressures, so engine breaking followed by hard acceleration is ideal. Although at 400 miles, I would think most of the break-in is already done.
City stop and go driving style puts more stress on the vehicle. Especially brakes and transmission so keep up with routine maintenance on those.
If Jeep puts your driving style in the severe service category you may decide to run short intervals, using conventional oil to save money. If you do do this, consider running 5w-20 or 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 because current formulations are too volatile and too much burns off leaving deposits and soot inside of engines.
You took the words out of my keyboard.
As for break in, it is best to run it hard once it warms up, and to vary the speed as much as possible. The point is to elevate cylinder pressures, so engine breaking followed by hard acceleration is ideal. Although at 400 miles, I would think most of the break-in is already done.
Thank you guys for responding so its pretty safe to say the breaking in part is over with. The jeep had 200 miles on it when i got it so its no telling how it was driven those miles. My next two questions are when should i dump the factory fill and switch to synthetic? And what oil would you guys recomend me to run. Im about to put 37s on it so its going to see ALOT of offroad time. I run mobil 1 ep in my other car and have no complaints from it. Ive also ran royal purple and pennzoil and have nothing bad to say about either one of those as well. I hear alot of guys always talking about dumping the factory fill around 500 miles is the necessary? Im new to all this but i do no one thing i want this jeep to last me a long time.
Use regular conventional and drive er hard. Real hard.
Very hard to believe the owner's manual says nothing about break in.
Full throttle is OK [not every time!]. Avoid high RPM though.
Full throttle at mid RPM seats the rings best. It is when maximum cylinder pressure occurs.
First OCI? We can go further than the old days.
Maybe 1/2 the factory recommendation if you want.
Full throttle at mid RPM seats the rings best. It is when maximum cylinder pressure occurs.
First OCI? We can go further than the old days.
Maybe 1/2 the factory recommendation if you want.
Ok so I'm safe to run the factory fill to about 3000 miles? The owners manual oci says 8000 miles under normal driving conditions. What would be the better oil to run Pennzoil ultra or Mobil 1 ep?
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