Castrol 10w40 300miles 73 Ventura

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bec

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May 31, 2005
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Hi Im new to this site and Im hoping you guys will be able to give me some answers to my oil analysis. This car is raced and does run leaded gas when being raced. Here are the values

Alum. 10
Chromium 3
iron 26
copper 3
lead 572
tin 4
molybdenum 77
nickel 0
manganese 1
silver 0
titanium 0
potassium 2
boron 5
silicon 14
sodium 11
calcium 2210
magnesium 9
phosphorus 768
zinc 845
barium 0

Viscosity 62.6
flashpoint 395
fuel .5
antifreeze 0
water 0
insolubles .3

We are seeing what looks like gold dust in the oil when drained. There are no be flakes of anything in the oil (at least nothing of any real size). The magnetic drain plugs look ok. There is a light coating of stuff on it but nothing that I can really feel with my fingers when I wipe it off. Im afraid that a bearing is going bad and that is what is causing the copper or gold dust look in the oil. Any ideas? Does running leaded fuel really cause that must lead in the oil?
 
Any ideas about what the copper or gold look is in the oil? We will put some miles on it without the leaded gas and retest. Based off of the other metals should I be worried about the bearings? THANKS for the help
 
Cut open the used oil filter and examine the pleats under magnification. Then take some of the yellow metal flakes and add a small amount of any mild acid (Pepsi should work) to it. If it tarnishes, it's a brass, bronze or copper alloy.

If it doesn't tarnish, stake a miners claim on your engine and start panning.
shocked.gif
 
We have cut the filter open and really dont see much in the pleats. I know that it not gold but that is the best way I think of to describe what we are seeing. I really thought it would show up on the test but the only thing on that I see that is way out of wack is the iron. Im guessing what ever it is it wasnt tested for.
 
Are any of your parts Titanium Nitride coated? Titanium Nitride can have a gold tone to it. It is very hard and brittle and if not applied proberly can crack and flake off. Their are different types of Nitride coatings and they all produce a different color to the finished part.
 
Is that a typo? 300 miles?

Is your oil pressure low? The the upper cylinder metals
(Al, Cr, Fe) are way out of line for only 300 miles on
the oil. Or is this a recent reubuild, and the engine
is still breaking in?

Check the oil pressure with a known good gauge.
Looks like possible oil pressure problems.
Maybe you need to be running a heavier oil
than SAE 30 in a racing engine
 
The 300 is not a typo. The engine was just rebuilt and only has about 1000 miles on it. Oil pressure is around 70lbs. There are no coating used in the engine. Thanks alot for the help.
 
quote:

The 300 is not a typo. The engine was just rebuilt and only has about 1000 miles on it.

Ok, that explains everything but the weird viscosity. You started out with 10w40, then 300 miles later your oil is now at SAE 30 viscosity.

But hey, overall I think your numbers look good for a new engine.
 
Is castrol known for lossing its viscosity? What would could cause that?
 
It depends on the application as much as the oil. Some perfectly good passenger car oils will shear down in viscosity when used in a high performance or heavy duty application.

You might want to try one of the 15w-40 HDEOs like Chevron Delo 400, or Mobil Delvac 1300. Since you seem to like Castrol products, you could try Castrol Tection Extra. Castrol Tection Extra 15w40 is currently on sale at Advance Auto for $5.31 a gallon. All these HDEOs are designed so that their viscosity stays in grade even under high performance or heavy duty conditions, (high temperature/high shear).
 
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