Engine Flush/Crankcase cleaner

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After 50+ years our 57' Ford tractor has a some engine deposits in the valve train. Never has a problem with it burning oil. Oil level is spot on. I'd like to clean it up the best i can. Anyone have personal experience using any Engine Flush products? How safe is Auto-rx? Went to local dealer service center, and they wouldn't recommend adding any cleaner to the engine oil, for fear of a larger peice of carbon or gunk lodging in the oil passages.

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whats recomended oil weight ? if it was mine and you already had the VC off i would clean what you could by hand. Then using a HM oil with good cleaning properties, some MMO, and look for slow results. I wouldnt want to use anything extreme as i agree that large chunks of gunk could be lodged, not to mention the oil filter clogging quickly. ive read alot of positives on BITOG on using "Kreen" ? i think, ive got no experience with it

If you do use a aggressive cleaner, change that filter and oil often..
 
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Awesome ride! I think you should dissolve it slower with some Penzoil yellow bottle. That thing should run on a 10W-30 just fine (looks like a small ford 6 cyl). Those deposits look kinda flakey and do look like they could cause blockage. Run some lower hour changes and replace the filter every change. If you wanted to take it all apart and scrub it down with a wire brush go for it. But for slowly dissolving it you need a high detergency oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: abycat
Awesome ride! I think you should dissolve it slower with some Penzoil yellow bottle. That thing should run on a 10W-30 just fine (looks like a small ford 6 cyl). Those deposits look kinda flakey and do look like they could cause blockage. Run some lower hour changes and replace the filter every change. If you wanted to take it all apart and scrub it down with a wire brush go for it. But for slowly dissolving it you need a high detergency oil.


Regular "dino" yellow bottle?..will dissolve it? Well it's not really flakey or baked on. More like a thicker black film, most of the caking in on the valve cover. Engine is 134 cu in, gas 4 cyl.
 
yeah pyb is a slow but good cleaner. I think the deposits should go away within a few oil changes, might be a little slow but I dont know which cleaner is a slow or fast cleaner so I could not make a recomendation there.
 
i would use BG Engine Purge then drain and re-fill with pyb or equal.
BG Engine Purge is not an ordinary engine flush. It is an effective blend of solvents and dispersant which will quickly and safely remove accumulated sludge and other deposits from the engine. It can actually restore compression by removing soot and deposits from around the rings; hence, the compression rings seal in compression gases. BG Engine Purge does not contain harmful chlorinated solvents. It may be used in gasoline, diesel and rotary engines.
 
This thing is only fifty+ years old?
Why doesn't that valve train look like an ad for Pennzoil Ultra?
Seriously, considering the oils this thing would have had for most of its working life, it looks pretty good up there.
Ignore the inside of the valve cover.
You can easily clean that.
As for the rest, any current oil changed on a reasonable interval will make it cleaner over time.
I don't know the maintenance or service history of this engine, but if we could go back in time, I wouldn't be surprised to see that it was worse in 1975 than it is today.
Oils are much better now, and are certainly better than what the engine would have gotten in its early working life.
Relax, run some short changes with any current 10W-40 while you work the machine, and then take the valve cover off a couple of years from now and post the pictures here.
If you want fast clean, there are various solvent products that might give it, but plain old oil will also make this engine cleaner over time.
 
I've had great results with Seafoam. Last time I used it the motor looked new. MMO does wonders too but it takes a few oil changed.
 
I'd just run a good synthetic 5w40 like Rotella or Delvac. You don't want to be breaking that stuff up too fast.....
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I'd just run a good synthetic 5w40 like Rotella or Delvac. You don't want to be breaking that stuff up too fast.....


MMO or Kreen is not going too break anything up, it will dissolve any junk that is in the engine.

Rotella or Delvac would be a good choice for the OP's Tractor.
 
I personally would use Auto-RX. Amsoil has a detergent based flush product out now. I have not tried it though. You could try MMO, or something like that.

I would not use a solvent based product.
 
Use Kreen. safe, very effective.
Why wait thru repeated OCIs using PYB or the like, when 2 treatments with Kreen would give better results in a fraction of the time. MMO takes too long, Auto-Rx is way over blown in price, length of time to work, and it efficacy. just my opinions!!

But, dont believe me, call them at 800 311 3374 and speak to them for yourself, ask your own questions. They are very patient, helpful and candid about their products

Love the tractor! Reminds me of our old Ford 2000 in England.
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I personally would use Auto-RX. Amsoil has a detergent based flush product out now. I have not tried it though. You could try MMO, or something like that.

I would not use a solvent based product.



MMO worked for a Mower Carb [Re: crazyoildude]



oilboy123


Registered: 12/05/03
Posts: 5783
Loc: Everett, Washington



Yes I am just starting to get on a MMO kick myself.

Did one Auto-RX run I had to abort on my Dad's van. Did 2 more all the way throgh. I had the oil pan off because the timing cover was leaking from pits in it.

I then noticed there was still some sludge in the engine. I am running a 1/2 qt of MMO in the oil and some in the gas. I might run another short run with MMO.
I might start running it in my fuel at times.

_________________________
Years teach us more than books.
Berthold Auerbach

How did the MMO work out on your Dad's van.
 
I know, and tried quality,not cheap flushes and cleaners myself. They will liquefy softer sludge and deposits first and fast. No huge chunks floating around.Then it slowly cleans hard deposits. I've inspected my filters many times and found some grit pieces there(not so many, rest was liquefied). Largest was around 1-1.5 mm.
I don't think 50 year old tractor has passages smaller than 2mm.
If you want absolutely safest way: increase cleaning power by little steps:
PYB
HM oil
HM synthectic
PYB + AutoRX
HM oil rinse oci
HM synthectic+ MMO
HM synthectic+ Kreen
HM synthectic+ good flush
 
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I would NOT flush that engine.

I'd run Rotella T6 5W-40 of Delvac 1 5W-40 in it at short change intervals to do some slow cleaning.

Like others have said, for a 50+ year old engine, it is in pretty darn good shape - don't jinx it!
 
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
whats recomended oil weight ? if it was mine and you already had the VC off i would clean what you could by hand. Then using a HM oil with good cleaning properties, some MMO, and look for slow results. I wouldnt want to use anything extreme as i agree that large chunks of gunk could be lodged, not to mention the oil filter clogging quickly. ive read alot of positives on BITOG on using "Kreen" ? i think, ive got no experience with it

If you do use a aggressive cleaner, change that filter and oil often..


I agree, maybe a pint of MMO vs. a qt added to a good HM oil. I'd stay clear of engine flushes.
 
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