OCI and oil for new (to me) driving style

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@ 45.1k thus far. We had our first snow of winter last night. it didn't stick to anything, but I'll take it as a warning to dig out my studded snow tires in the next few weeks. Gained 1 mpg with 89 octane fuel. With current consumption, that means I gained 18 miles for $1.80 or saved the cost of 1/3 gallon of gas.
Will also be getting out my WWII style greatcoat as I've found I don't get much heat at highway speeds.
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Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
@ 45.1k thus far. We had our first snow of winter last night. it didn't stick to anything, but I'll take it as a warning to dig out my studded snow tires in the next few weeks. Gained 1 mpg with 89 octane fuel. With current consumption, that means I gained 18 miles for $1.80 or saved the cost of 1/3 gallon of gas.
Will also be getting out my WWII style greatcoat as I've found I don't get much heat at highway speeds.
frown.gif




Maybe your heater core is blocking up? try a back flush (those kits they sell) @ the auto parts store. Should be real easy to do on that car. Lot`s of room to work etc. How good is your radiator cap? All of my Fords had excellent heat I`ll say that.
 
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Of my last 3 older Fords, only one had great heat: a 78 LTD Landau w/400M. I've put some cardboard in front of the radiator to keep enough heat to at least keep windshield clear.
The engine just never gets hot enough, perhaps thermostat is stuck partially open. Hmmm....
 
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
The engine just never gets hot enough, perhaps thermostat is stuck partially open. Hmmm....


That's certainly a possibility to explore. Every time a thermostat on one of my Fords failed, it was always, fortunately, in the open position, even when they weren't fail safe thermostats, for whatever reason. My Town Car was a chilly beast when the thermostat failed.
 
It's easy enough to change, so I'll look into switching thermostats when weather improves a bit. I just have to be real careful with moving the top hose to not flex the radiator fitting. It's held in by a prayer currently.
 
It could be just the nature of the engine set-up - large grill and rad, and large engine bay allows lots of cooling, not allowing the engine to stay warm on highway runs.

Had that problem BAD in my 1986 Civic that I did a lot of highway running with.....
 
@ 45.6k added 1qt thus far. Turned idle down roughly 25rpm as I was getting some run-on as temps get colder. The only hose getting hot under hood is one heater hose. All the others are only warm, including upper radiator hose. Currently, only enough heat to keep windshield clear.
 
Changed out fuel filter as I finally got some good ones. The one I took off was about 50% blocked, probably from when pump was dying.
Changed thermostat today with a new 180 degree unit and gasket. No real change in heat and based on the hoses, I'm figuring on bad core. That will just have to stay that way.
 
had to remove carb again to retighten the screws holding bottom base plate on carb. They seem to loosen every 8-10k and give a slight miss that's worse if you have the hood open. It turns out that the hood insulation helps keep the carb stable when it starts getting loose.
In the next week or so, I'll be getting out the studded snow tires.
 
I've got heatage!
smile.gif

I switched the heater hoses around at the core and am finally getting something that passes for heat.
Hopefully, it lasts as I really don't want to pull that heater assembly.
 
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I've got heatage!
smile.gif

I switched the heater hoses around at the core and am finally getting something that passes for heat.
Hopefully, it lasts as I really don't want to pull that heater assembly.



Huh, thats odd. Did you have them off before? I would have also tried blasting the water hose through the core as well. Unless you tried that? then again you have to be careful or you`ll blow the [censored] thing out.
 
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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I've got heatage!
smile.gif

I switched the heater hoses around at the core and am finally getting something that passes for heat.
Hopefully, it lasts as I really don't want to pull that heater assembly.



Huh, thats odd. Did you have them off before? I would have also tried blasting the water hose through the core as well. Unless you tried that? then again you have to be careful or you`ll blow the [censored] thing out.

I didn't want to blow out the core as one that's plugged is better than one that leaks. In reading about a reverse-flush, I thought I might be able to get a similar effect by switching the hoses. My core is a vertical mount with both hoses coming from the top so I'd hoped it was just some [censored] plugging something. I did have decent heat in March when I first resurrected this car for "real use".
 
@ 46k
I've noticed oil loss is up using 10w-30, but not terribly so. After 1st 1000 miles, the car uses 1 qt every additional 1000. In other words, an increase of 25% over using 10w-40. In light of the fresh oil getting added, I'll probably do 5k this run.
Studded snow tires now mounted and installed.
 
10w-40: added 2qt for 4k and was only down 1/2 qt at change
10w-30: add 2qt for 4k and will likely be down 1qt at same interval.

Oil level is checked each week(roughly 500 miles) so will likely be changing again in early December.
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Now have ST 10w-30, MS 5000 10w-30, and Rotella 10w-30 in stash. Currently American XT 10w-30 in engine. After this OCI, AXT will be just my top-off oil.
 
Thanks for the updates - love hearing about this one!

Like you had planned, I'd go with MS 10W-30 for the rest of the winter - it will have the best cold-weather perfromance of the ones you have.

Still planning a UOA on the oil in early December?
 
@46.5k added 2nd qt to this OCI

I can do a UOA with this last run of dollar general's "American XT" 10w-30. I still have 12qts of that left that I'll be using as "add-oil" There will likely be 2 more Oci's done during cold(er) weather. I have one more fram left that I'll use this next change and then run the few ecore stp's that I bought by accident. Those will be for warmer weather, then back to 10w-40.
Only difference noted with 10w-30 vs 10w-40 is that I had to turn down the idle about 25rpm as it would run-on when I shut the car off. The thicker oil must have had a slight braking action.
 
Since you just topped-off, I'd run the car until you are down a quart (another 1k-ish), and THEN do a UOA and change. Brand-new oil will skew the results without some miles on it....

Of course, with an engine that needs regular top-off, the oil will almost always look 'strong', as there is regular replenishment.
 
only at 3k on this oci thus far so I was going to go at least another k (2 weeks).
About every K, I need to add 1 qt with 30. Using 40, I get about 1-2 hundred more miles before adding. No matter how I do it, it'll use 7 qts to go 4k. The only difference is how low sump is at change time.
Since MS5k is a different formula oil than most, should I use the same stuff for adding, or whatever I get cheap as usual? i hate to waste good stuff for just top-offs.
 
I'd definetly just stick with the cheap stuff for top-offs.

Don't spend good money on oil that won't be in there very long, at all.
 
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