ATF+4 is fine for the tranny, and yeah, definitely change the filter. The "special" power steering fluid mentioned is pretty much standard parts store PSF (don't use ATF). I usually use the Valvoline stuff from AAP in the PS, it seems to work just fine.
2000 Grand Cherokee 4.0L no oil pressure @ idle
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The taillamp issue sounds like a bad ground. When the parking lights are off, the brake light can "ground" through the parking lamp filament to the other parking lamps. When the parking lamps are on, the park filament can likewise ground through the brake UNTIL you also apply the brake. Then there's no ground anywhere, the whole assembly floats up to supply voltage so no lights come on in that lamp assembly.
Don't use ATF+3. ATF+4 is a MUCH better fluid and is backward compatible for all transmissions originally spec'd for ATF+3.
PS fluid that meets Mopar approval can be found at any parts store. I think those fluids usually meet both Mopar and Honda approvals among others.
Don't use ATF+3. ATF+4 is a MUCH better fluid and is backward compatible for all transmissions originally spec'd for ATF+3.
PS fluid that meets Mopar approval can be found at any parts store. I think those fluids usually meet both Mopar and Honda approvals among others.
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OK, sounds good. I've got a few quarts of Parts Master PSF, I'll make sure it meets spec and use those up. All ATF+4 is the same since the fluid is licensed, correct?
The brake bulb socket did have a pin that fell out and had to be put back into place and the socket itself looked pretty burnt around the top of it, but that's likely due to heat from the bulb. The wiring harness looked OK as well. Where else should I look?
The brake bulb socket did have a pin that fell out and had to be put back into place and the socket itself looked pretty burnt around the top of it, but that's likely due to heat from the bulb. The wiring harness looked OK as well. Where else should I look?
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
Put a mechanical gauge on it and see what the pressure really is first. Then you'll know if the sender is bad.
+++1 i had this problem on the accord..... pressure was ok and a new unit (looks kinda like spark plug) and problem solved
Put a mechanical gauge on it and see what the pressure really is first. Then you'll know if the sender is bad.
+++1 i had this problem on the accord..... pressure was ok and a new unit (looks kinda like spark plug) and problem solved
The engine still seems fine after several weeks since I posted this topic, and it appeared to drive and sound fine when I saw it. It has to be the oil pressure sending unit, otherwise bad things would have happened by now I'm sure. Once my friend obtains the part from the dealer, I'll change it out during an oil change. Does anyone know the torque spec? I can't seem to find one in the FSM.
Thanks for all the information, everyone!
Thanks for all the information, everyone!
I don't know the exact torque spec, but it's pretty much this: tight enough to not leak, but don't break it off.
Oh, I forgot to mention that the day after the battery was replaced, the pressure gauge went back to its usual behavior (showing 0 psi). So I'll be replacing the sending unit as mentioned in my previous reply.
No mechanical gauge in your toolbox yet?
I'm an unemployed college student, can't afford one.
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
I'm an unemployed college student, can't afford one.
$15 for a guage vs thousands for a engine replacement?
I'm an unemployed college student, can't afford one.
$15 for a guage vs thousands for a engine replacement?
The oil pressure gauge has been on the fritz for weeks now and there has not been any apparent engine damage or noises or failures, and the pressure gauge seemed to be operating properly for the first few starts after the battery was replaced.
most part stores will let you rent a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
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