2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.7L V-8. Amsoil S2K 0W-30(10,700 Miles)

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Jeeps was the only 4.7 with the HO option untill 05 or is it 06 dakota. you can always put the Ho cams and intake on your jeep. alot of people does this mod for their dakota 4.7.
 
This is the second time today I am going to recomend putting the paper filter back on a vechile. Sell the K&N cold air kit on Ebay and never look back!The dirt getting past that filter is sandblasting your engine!
 
and only $700 too. not alot of peopel want to sink that kind of money in to cams. the dodge HO cams gives enough punch for the money. something like $200.
 
My latest report. I ran Amsoil's S3K this interval. About 100 miles before this last change, I replaced the K&N filter on my K&N intake with an AEM Dryflow. I'll be curious to see if it lowers the Si numbers. If not, I may just go back to the stock intake. I can't really tell if the S3K was an improvement or not. To me, it doesn't really seem like it.

Any feedback is appreciated.

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BTC,

Seems like both Amsoil products are performing about the same. Wear looks fine, but I still think the silicon is a bit high. You also have some potassium and sodium which can also be signs of dirt ingestion.

Looks like a 10k service interval is about it for this engine, under these conditions.

TS
 
Thanks for the feedback.

I'm really hoping the AEM Dryflow replacement filter I recently put on my intake is going to improve the air filtering.

I probably should have mentioned that I replaced an Amsoil SDF15 oil filter with their new EaO equivalent for that interval.

I'm running the same oil & filter now.
 
BTC, You do not gain squat with a stock 4.7 by useing a so called "cold air kit"!! THe OEM DC filter actual had the CFM of flow printed on the side of the filter. I am trying to rember and I am sure I will miss the number but it was something like 1158CFM. That is more flow then your engine could ever use. Even if you had KRC's intake and cam kit and a reflashed or chiped ECU that stock airfilter would still get the job done. If you did need more flow wich this vechile does not sound like it needs then you would be better off fiting an airbox from a diesel and still useing a paper filter.

I know my Dodge Dakota drew it's air from the passenger side wheel house that seperates the engine comparment from the fender. You would be hard pressed to get any colder air then that!
 
I'm going to give the AEM replacement filter a whirl. If the silicon number doesn't improve, I'll probably just go back to the stock intake. I'm convinced that the K&N FIPK is mostly marketing hype, but it sounds kinda cool. I'm also not sure whether there is any benefit of paying more to run Amsoil in my engine, but I never did a UOA of the Mobil 1 oil I used to run.
 
BTC,

I think I'd go and run the regular Amsoil 5w-30 or 10w-30 in this application. You should be able to get about the same service interval that you did with the more expensive Series 2000 in this application.

TS
 
Has Amsoil done anything recently to prevent their more expensive oils from thickening? The S3K doesn't seem to have held up as well as the S2K, but I'm no oil analyst. Does their regular 5W-30 thicken considerably? Do all oils thicken? What is the regular 5W-30 called?

Have there been any UOA's posted using AEM Dryflow replacement filter? I don't know what to expect, but I'm really hoping it's going to be an improvement over the K&N filter.
 
Oil thickening is primarily a result of how much contamination you are getting. This is a function of the severity of service, the amount of fuel you burn and the emission control settings of the engine. It is also affected by how much "blowby" you're getting past the rings and how effective the PCV system is in scavanging those combustion gases from the crankcase.

Given the consistency of these results, any oil is going to thicken in this engine, under these conditions....If you dumped in enough LC-20, you could probably mitigate the thickening to some degree, but it might drive the wear rates and oil consumption up. Probably not a good tradeoff in this case....

The regular Amsoil 5w-30 is their "ASL" product and their latest chemistry seems to be staying in grade very well. It should outperform the older version of the 0w-30 you used previously in this regard.

TS
 
My latest analysis. Ran an Amsoil EaO15 oil filter, which is what I ran last interval also, and switched the air filter on my K&N intake from K&N to a 9" AEM Dry Flow. It didn't seem to have much of an effect on my silicon levels. This was my second interval with the Series 3000 Amsoil. I'm running German Castrol right now and reusing the oil filter I had on for this interval.

 
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quote:

Originally posted by Santo Fontana:
If this vehicle is equipped with a MAF the pipes KN provides could be slightly larger, which is common with intakes, causing the ecu to not know that there is some extra air in there. Then the car runs a little leaner, and you might get better mileage and make some more power. That is how they get the power claims alot of the time because the manufacturers make the car run rich under wot for safety (cooling). The result is you might get a few HP at the expense of filtering, and higher EGTs.

Well... I understand what you're saying, but every MAF I've ever seen is part of a housing. That means that the velocity through that housing is the same no matter what kind of piping is before or after it and therefore the mixture is exactly what it should be. If it wasn't, then every car running one with an MAF would ping itself to death at all times other than WOT, at which time they would either simply overheat or else hole a piston or melt a valve.




Not all intake kits retain the factory MAF hose.

Under normal driving conditions the ecu will be in closed loop and be able to compensate for the added air. In open loop it will most likely run a little leaner (see my first post).
 
I installed a KN FIPK on a durango a while ago and even with all the bracing for the new pipe properly installed the pipe would bounce around and cause an intake leak at the throttle body. You might want to make sure that POS kit isnt leaking somewhere other than the filter.
 
I'm pretty much certain that the intake isn't leaking. It's mounted very securely, does not move and the tubing itself does not appear to be compromised.
 
The wear numbers look good, iron is a touch high, but with the flash point that low, it could be due to some fuel dilution problems. TBN is pretty low and the oil thickened up to a 40 weight over a small interval.

Last VOA I saw showed that Amsoil doesn't have any potassium in it to begin with, and has littlel to no sodium (about 2-4 ppm), but not sure if it has changed with reformulations. I would keep a close look on it just to make sure that it's not the beginning of a small coolant leak. This could also introduce silicon too, but your wear doesn't seem to be effected (at least not by much) by it.

That could explain why the flashpoint is down, TBN is as low as it is after only 7,700 miles, and why the oil thickened to a low 40 weight.

Hopefully some experts can chime in on here to give some better help, I'm just going by what I have seen in other UOAs.
 
My latest report. This is German Castrol Gold. I reused an Amsoil EaO filter. The filter had ~ 17K miles on it at the time this sample was taken. Just add up the miles of my last two reports if you want a precise mileage. I think this report seems pretty good, but I'm no expert. I have the oil filter if anyone wants it.

 
I may have to rehost that image at some point. I'm away from home and it's the best I can do under the circumstances. It's kind of hard to read.
 
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