New Car, New Oil; 2012 Hyundai Veloster

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Zac

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Mar 14, 2005
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Baltimore, MD
Hello,

I recently got a Hyundai Veloster. I am obviously going synthetic on it. I drive over 50k miles a year. The car is a smaller I4 (1.6 liter IIRC) with about 130 hp. It has only been out a few months so finding much in the way of UOAs on it has been rough. Has anyone had experience with this car? I am trying to figure out an oil and oil filter. It seems everyone votes to stick with the stock filter but any thoughts here would be nice. I was thinking for the oil to use Penzoil Platinum or Quaker State (at probably a 5W20 or 30) for the sake of keeping the cost low and they seem to be very good oils for the money. Any thoughts? There is very little information on the flow and/or filtration capabilities of the OEM Hyundai filter either, so this has been frustrating.
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Thanks!
 
What is the Oil filter part# recommended for your Veloster? Hyundai filters are well constructed filters and built specifically for high flow. My Sonata has to have the OEM filter or I get "chatter" in the valve-train. (26300-35503) is my filter P/N. If that is yours that is what you should use.

as far as the oil is concerned use a grade recommended for your climate in the owners manual. It will be a 5w30 or 5w20 either one will be fine, stick with the reputable major brands.

Good luck and use the OEM filter, you will be hard pressed to find a better after market filter anyway (for the most part). I have cut open a few of them now and every one is in great shape.
 
My Sonata made a horrible knocking noise with a Champion-Labs made STP filter. But, it didn't knock with the Fram orange can that was on there when I bought it.

There is a TSB on engine knocks caused by aftermarket filters. I just checked hmaservice.com, and they have it listed under the Veloster and all other models.

But, does that engine have a spin-on filter or a cartridge filter? That car is so new that it isn't listed on any Hyundai parts websites I can find.

My Sonata has a spin on filter. The OEM filter is made in Korea. It seems to have a thick can and it has a silicon ADBV. I'll cut it open when I'm done with it, but so far it looks good.
 
I'd go for something like Mobil 1 AFE 0w20, or the 0w30 if you really rag on the motor a lot.

BTW, I really like the look of those things. I saw one the other day in person and was pleasantly surprised!
 
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My thoughts are that 'high flow' + 'oem'= poor filtration. The only way to increase flow significantly is to use a higher-quality synthetic or synthetic-blend media, or to use less media. For an OEM filter, my guess is the latter. What size/type filter does this take?

As far as the oil, if 5W30 is acceptable under warranty, I'd use 5W30 given the shear common in DI engines. I'd probably go w/PZ Ultra 5W30, but I can find it available locally for cheap. Another inexpensive option would be M1EP5W30. I wouldn't use a super-thin oil in this car, and I'm a big fan of super-thin oils. Most DI cars seem hard on oil. And even w/your driving habits, I wouldn't go to crazy on the length of the OCI, probably 5K to start. My $.02.
 
I use Mobil 1 0W20 and OEM filters in my wifes 2011 Santa Fe V6 and currently am on a 5K OCI. The Santa Fe has 8K total miles on it and I may extend the OCI's after the current fill is due for a change. The engine runs great and is very quiet...


The Veloster looks like a very cool car...
 
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Hey the oil filter is 326300-35503 supposedly, although I cannot say 100% until I check with the dealer. It sounds like the Hyundai filters are pretty well made so I will stick with them...especially given IIRC they are like $5-7. It sounds like a UOA at 5k from Blackstone Labs would be wise (I've never owned a direct injection engine before).

The temps here fluctuate from as low as 0 (F) in the winter and 100 (F) in the summer so cold starting is something I have to keep in mind at the same time. I've historically used 5W30 synthetics in FI engines year round (including Amsoil, Schaeffers, Penzoil, and Mobil 1) and obviously a different weight in cars I would Auto-X with. I am a 'spirited' driver. Is the 5W30 is a good choice given I am dealing with: cold starts, long daily drives (1-2.5 hours twice a day, 5 days a week), and I do drive rather hard?

For a DI engine like this, would a specific oil designed to prevent shearing be worth consideration? Would the Penzoil Ultra be worth it over the Platinum for this car?

This car also has a true dual clutch semi automatic transmission and so I do use it to engine brake and I am frequently running a high level of RPM. I started to think that the oil in the transmission should be changed out too but it seems this dual clutch semi uses grease or something (I know nothing about them). Anyone have thoughts/intel on this for this confused Hyundai Driver?
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Originally Posted By: Boss302fan

The Veloster looks like a very cool car...


It really surprised me. It's quite a lot of fun to drive and it gets a lot of people's attention. The transmission and the handling were what impressed me the most but the LG Touchscreen is also among the best in its class. Its tyres are pretty poor but what stock tyres aren't? (they are getting replaced with Pilot Sport or Continental DWS all seasons shortly :)). The turbo version should be pretty neat but I wanted it for fuel economy. I am working on getting (ironically enough) a new Boss for my fun car. If not that, then the Cobra or GT-R...none of which would be good for my commute of nearly 1k miles a week lol
 
Zak,

Congratulations on your new toy! Since it's new I'd see what your dealership uses and ask if they have a synthetic oil substitute. Then I'd use that oil until the warrenty runs out and after that you can use what ever oil your prefer.

Since you drive 50K miles annually I'd use the lightest weight oil possible to squeeze as much MPG out of it. The Veloster obviously was meant for high MPG anyway using the engine they have.

Have fun and enjoy the money savings you'll get with your new ride.

Durango
 
Originally Posted By: Durango
Zak,

Congratulations on your new toy! Since it's new I'd see what your dealership uses and ask if they have a synthetic oil substitute. Then I'd use that oil until the warrenty runs out and after that you can use what ever oil your prefer

Durango


Speak with your service advisor. My dealer charges a $41 upcharge on top of their normal price for synthetic (Castrol Syntec.)

What I do is bring my own oil (Pennzoil in my case) and my dealer charges $15 for the oil change and factory filter. A cheaper and better solution in my opinion.
 
OP, you're going to run out the warranty in 2 years. I would just use whatever is on sale. PP 5w-20 and a P1 would be great. I assume you do lots of hwy miles so you'll save great on gas...since that's the reason why you opted out of the turbo.
 
So I was at Walmart today and Penzoil Ultra was a dollar more for 5 quarts than Platinum. All they had was 5W30 so I took a 5qt case of that for $25. That seemed pretty cheap. Think I did well?
 
So here are the official specs from Hyundai:

They use and recommend Quaker State. Isn't Penzoil and Quaker State under the same parent Shell company? The standard changes are 7,500 miles, give or take, supposedly using dino oil (I have a feeling it is actually a syn blend but who knows)...

The volume is 3.5 quarts

The oil type can be:
-5W20 or 5W30 for operating in -30 to 120 F
-10W30 for operating in 0-120 F

They mandate a API Service SM ILSAC GF-4 or above. They recommend a 5W20 for the better fuel economy but a 5W30 or 10W30 for better oil performance in hotter weather.

I decided given the drives I do can mean as much as 3 hours of stop-n-go without turning the engine off, the 5W30 would be ideal given the excessive heat that is produced but the better cold weather starts than a 10W30.


Should I stick with the 5W30 or try to find a Walmart with a few 5W20 5-qt jugs?
 
Stop and go traffic for hours at a time is very hard on oil because the oil temperature can be above 220-230F, 5W30 is a better choice than 5W20.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Stop and go traffic for hours at a time is very hard on oil because the oil temperature can be above 220-230F, 5W30 is a better choice than 5W20.


Would 10W30 be wise or is that too much stress on the engine for cold starts?
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
I would go with Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 In this DI engine. Or other LL and low ash oils.


Does Penzoil Ultra fit that description?
 
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