Opinion on Havoline oil

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As someone who has used this oil on and off for the last eight years, the only downside(s) to the current formula is IMHO:

1. It is on the very thin side. Even using 10w-30, leaks appeared in my motors where they had not been before.
2. Not quite loaded with moly as the previous formula.
3. Can be hard to locate. Trying to find anything other than the regular Deposit Shield dino is impossible.

Otherwise, every engine of mine has like it and it has looked good, even with one year OCIs or about 5000 miles, when drained. But I do not have any Blackstone proof.
 
I am kind of disappointed in this new formulation, it's not because of the additive package either. It appears in testing it didn't even pass the NOACK volatility requirements set forth by the API/ILSAC and I just think there are better options out there. PEAK conventional and "syn" is a better option if you are looking for a lesser priced oil.

Havoline will work though and it definitely isn't a terrible oil and I would use it if I had to (and trust it) but it would not be my first choice.
Go with PYB, any Valvoline, Mobil or GTX and you will have made a great choice.
 
Somebody on here said that Chevron Supreme has a better additive
package than Havoline, but I can't remember who said it.
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In the past Havoline has been a fantastic oil to use, but it seems with the new SN formulation a lot of oils are not as good as their previous SM formulation and unfortunately Havoline falls as a victim to that.

It's not a bad oil, but I would keep looking.
 
Can anyone show any parameter or condition where SN oils are not performing as well as SM oils?

I have used Havoline sporadically for about 40 years. I have never seen anything to make me think that it has performed poorly so far. The 30 weights have been on the thin side of late, but some would see that as a good thing.
 
I use Havoline conventional motor oil 99% of the time as that is the oil my dad was in the habit of using. Plus it's easily found, it's reasonablly priced and it's all I need for 3-5K mile changes... I don't really have a reason to change brands as he has taken 4-5 cars past 250K miles in the past decade...2 over 300K. Yes, I understand formulations change.

Sure, there are better oils out there but at the end of 100K miles, or 200K or even 300K, will it matter if you ran Havoline DS or PYB, VWB, etc?? I doubt it. That being said, I don't have issue with running other oils, and if your looking for a high mileage or a synthetic blend oil, SOPUS and Ashland products are easy to find.
 
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Used Havoline for years in numerous vehicles, up till about 5yrs ago....just can't find it anymore...got tired of dealing with a hard to find oil and said forget it.
 
Originally Posted By: GMorg
Can anyone show any parameter or condition where SN oils are not performing as well as SM oils?

I have used Havoline sporadically for about 40 years. I have never seen anything to make me think that it has performed poorly so far. The 30 weights have been on the thin side of late, but some would see that as a good thing.


I agree completely!

Through our(siblings) growing up and driving years(50's, 60's & 70's), we used only ESSO(Uni-Flo, SuperFlo, Plus) oils as Dad owned an ESSO/Exxon station/franchise. Since Dad retired in the 1970's and we/he used up the stash, I have been on a kick of Havoline oils since I discovered National Auto Parts(a.k.a.-Whitlock Co.- Wheels, Parts America/Sears, & Adv.Auto Parts).

I found Havoline oils to be on sale all the time and even Hav's regular prices beat other oil prices when [they] were on sale. Havoline Rebates to boot especially in the 80's & 90's added to the splendor. I have never know Havoline to be subpar!

Now after discovering BITOG, I buy any oil(held in high regrard here at Bob's) on sale, closeout, rebate, whatever! Including Havoline
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In doing some research I thought I would resurrect this thred.
It seems the newer Havoline, which is made by Chevron, is getting a bad rap. I don't know why. From what I have read it's just Chevron Supreme in a Chevron stamped bottle with a Havoline label. And we all know Chevron makes some very good oil.
Opinions?
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
In doing some research I thought I would resurrect this thred.
It seems the newer Havoline, which is made by Chevron, is getting a bad rap. I don't know why. From what I have read it's just Chevron Supreme in a Chevron stamped bottle with a Havoline label. And we all know Chevron makes some very good oil.
Opinions?
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My dad used Havoline for YEARS! I've used it alot and am currently using Havoline in our crown victoria,which holds up better then the Mobil Super 5000 we were running.
 
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
In doing some research I thought I would resurrect this thred.
It seems the newer Havoline, which is made by Chevron, is getting a bad rap. I don't know why. From what I have read it's just Chevron Supreme in a Chevron stamped bottle with a Havoline label. And we all know Chevron makes some very good oil.
Opinions?
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My dad used Havoline for YEARS! I've used it alot and am currently using Havoline in our crown victoria,which holds up better then the Mobil Super 5000 we were running.

DR, what is the RWHP on your Mustang? What brand supercharger are you running @ boost psi?
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
In doing some research I thought I would resurrect this thred.
It seems the newer Havoline, which is made by Chevron, is getting a bad rap. I don't know why. From what I have read it's just Chevron Supreme in a Chevron stamped bottle with a Havoline label. And we all know Chevron makes some very good oil.
Opinions?
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My dad used Havoline for YEARS! I've used it alot and am currently using Havoline in our crown victoria,which holds up better then the Mobil Super 5000 we were running.

DR, what is the RWHP on your Mustang? What brand supercharger are you running @ boost psi?
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Vortech Supercharger 10-12psi usually.
500+/- hp depending on which pulley setup I use atm.
 
I'll jump aboard again!

I have a stash of Havoline DS 5W20 & 5W30 in SN/GF-5 and it's been working very well as expected in all engines, mainly 4 cyls.

As our "Tom NJ" always shares with us, the PQIA results shows Havoline DS to be a fine oil that easily meet spec along with it's rivals.

Since Havoline went to the new Deposit Shield(DS), their price went way up and I don't see rebates any longer. Where as, when I started using Havoline, it was always a great dino oil and priced near the store brand oils...then, often put on sale by that store and there was often a MFG Rebate. Thus, bringing the cost of the oil to the .49-.69 cents/qt making Havoling the steel to buy.

My last purchace was ~ $1.49/qt when AAP put it on sale and I had an InStore Coupon to use as well(no rebate). This is the only way I could buy Havoline at a better price. I still use Havoline oil and like & trust it very much
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Today(right now), AAP has a 5qt jug with a DriveWorks filter for $16.99. It's not the bargin price that Havoline used to be but, not bad for today.
 
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Originally Posted By: Char Baby

Since Havoline went to the new Deposit Shield(DS), their price went way up and I don't see rebates any longer. Where as, when I started using Havoline, it was always a great dino oil and priced near the store brand oils...


While I can't give you the exact price, the last time I walked through the WM oil aisle, SuperTech was the lowest priced oil and the next highest was an almost tie between Mobil and Havoline. I've used Havoline in the past with no problems. I'd probably some Havoline this week....except TropArtic is now on sale locally.
 
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
DR, what is the RWHP on your Mustang? What brand supercharger are you running @ boost psi?
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Vortech Supercharger 10-12psi usually.
500+/- hp depending on which pulley setup I use atm.

Holy "You Know What!"
With that kind of power you must have one nasty cam! When I was building engines Lunati or Comp Cams was my choice.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
DR, what is the RWHP on your Mustang? What brand supercharger are you running @ boost psi?
20.gif



Vortech Supercharger 10-12psi usually.
500+/- hp depending on which pulley setup I use atm.

Holy "You Know What!"
With that kind of power you must have one nasty cam! When I was building engines Lunati or Comp Cams was my choice.
thumbsup2.gif



Actually, the good blower cams have little to no overlap and don't sound very nasty at all.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Actually, the good blower cams have little to no overlap and don't sound very nasty at all.
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Honestly, I don't know how to approach that reply. Can you elaborate just bit more on that?
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I do know that the camshaft is the heartbeat of an engine. When I was building engines and racing I would put a lot of thought into my camshaft selection. (Lift/Duration-Solid/Hydraulic)
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Actually, the good blower cams have little to no overlap and don't sound very nasty at all.
smile.gif


Honestly, I don't know how to approach that reply. Can you elaborate just bit more on that?
smile.gif

I do know that the camshaft is the heartbeat of an engine. When I was building engines and racing I would put a lot of thought into my camshaft selection. (Lift/Duration-Solid/Hydraulic)


When you are running an engine with a blower, you don't want the boost going out the exhaust valve, which happens when you have overlap (both valves open at the same time).

This means that LSA (lobe separation angle) is an important item, because the wider the LSA, the more duration that can be run whilst minimizing overlap.

A narrow LSA, lots of duration and subsequently, overlap, is what gives engines that "nasty" sound. The intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, so some of the intake charge ends up being drawn in while the exhaust charge is still exiting the chamber. You lose a bit of compression, and get that nasty snappy lope. This promotes scavenging at higher RPM's (the exhaust charge exiting literally draws the intake charge into the chamber) and results in more power.

However, on a boosted engine, there's no benefit to the overlap. The intake charge is already pressurized. So a wide LSA, lots of duration and lift (within reason of course) to maximize cylinder fill, and you end up with an engine that certainly sounds aggressive, but likely milder than you'd expect it to.

There are a bunch of guys that leave the stock HO cam in their 5.0L's for the true "sleeper" approach. They do heads and intake, put on a blower, and leave the stock cam in (though they often use 1.7 ratio rockers for more lift). The engine sounds almost stock, but can make close to 500RWHP
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The TFS #1 (which is a cam I ran) is a popular choice for an "off the shelf" camshaft for the 302 Windsor:

http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51403001&autoview=sku

221/225 duration, .499/.510 lift (I ran it with 1.7's, so my lift was .530/.542) and has IIRC, -2 degrees of overlap on a 112LSA (it has been a few years since I did the math, so that figure might be off).

My custom replacement was ~230/240 .549/.552 on a 113.8LSA and had negative overlap as well, as I had mentioned to the grinder that I may be putting an S-trim on the car.
 
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