Leaking Oil Drain Plug

[c3po]

My Dad has a Cub Cadet Tractor with the 20 Horsepower Engine.

He has the type of drain plug where you take the cap off and pull out this plastic piece, and then when you are done draining the oil you push the plastic piece back on and put the cap on.

The metal part of the drain plug that screws into the engine block keeps getting loose, I finally took the whole thing off since I did an oil change.

Do I use some plumbers tape which my Dad has, or do I use some Loctite.

 

[boraticus]

Is the "metal part" a permanent fixture? Meaning if you install it, it will never need to come off again? If so, clean off all the oil from the threads. Use some WD-40, a toothbrush and a rag to wash off the threads and put a coat of JB Weld on the male piece then install it. Make sure you put it in correctly because when the JB sets up, it isn't going to let go.

 

[jdh]

looking forward to a solution as mine does the same thing.

 

[JTK]

My Cub 2544 also came from the factory with the "quick drain". It was such a PITA to use on that particular GT that I removed and re-plumbed it with pipe and fittings that would drain at a better location. I used liquid pipe dope to seal the pipe into the block and for the fittings. On the 2544 I had to remove the engine mount bolts and shim the engine up in the air to allow enough room to remove the hex part of the quick drain fitting from the block. A flat on the hex literally laid right on the frame making it only possible to remove by lifting the engine. This is how it looked after:

Joel

 

[kcfx4]

Originally Posted By: boraticus
Is the "metal part" a permanent fixture? Meaning if you install it, it will never need to come off again? If so, clean off all the oil from the threads. Use some WD-40, a toothbrush and a rag to wash off the threads and put a coat of JB Weld on the male piece then install it. Make sure you put it in correctly because when the JB sets up, it isn't going to let go.

while this may work, but isnt a great idea. Im familiar with this set up, and they are prone to come lose, a poor design, nice idea tho. Personally, id use thread tape as a temporary fix. then go to small engine shop and get a metal tube of the same length or close, and use a typical drain plug, and ditch that plastic set up.

 

[kcfx4]

sorry joel, hadnt noticed what you said/same thing. must been replying at same time

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
sorry joel, hadnt noticed what you said/same thing. must been replying at same time


Ha! We must have mashed the "Submit" button a few seconds apart. In hindsight, a section of flexible hydraulic hose would have been better on my 2544. The pipe was better than what they gave you. On my new Z-Force, oil would drain all over the pan the engine is mounted to if it wasn't for the hose they set it up with:

Joel

 

[c3po]

I will give the Thread Tape a try and if it comes loose again, then I will go and get a metal tube and put a drain plug on it.

I guess it does not help that the block is Aluminum and the piece that screws in there is steel.

Once I get this on I am thinking of putting a dab of RTV Silicone where the nut screws into the block, that with the teflon tape should help.

Seems nobody likes the Loctite idea, so I will forget about using Loctite on the threads.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: c3po


I guess it does not help that the block is Aluminum and the piece that screws in there is steel.



That should not be an issue. The main thing with the Cubs are, the fixed portion of the quick drain is basically inaccessible. For the newer Cub 2K series, they added galvanized pipe and an elbow to bring the quick drain out to a more accessible location.

Joel

 

[YupOldBull1]

I had the same issue with the "quick change" plastic insert leaking oil all the time. Really poor design.

I did a similiar repair utilizing a petcock and 5/16" fuel line. I went with the "rubber line option" because of the vibration factor coming from the engine.

The petcock was purchased on eBay, the brass fitting was purchased at a Sears Hardware store, and 12" of 5/16" fuel line was purchased at PepBoys Auto Parts.

Keywords: 2007 Cub Cadet rzt 50 22 hp Kawasaki 50 inch Zero-Turn Rider MTD Oil Leak Oil Change

(pictures and parts shown below)

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: YupOldBull1
I had the same issue with the "quick change" plastic insert leaking oil all the time. Really poor design.


Oldie thread here, but you can purchase a pre-made flexible hose kit from Drainzit specifically for these engines:

Joel

 

[YupOldBull1]

I had the same issue with the "quick change" plastic insert leaking oil all the time. Really poor design.

I did a similiar repair utilizing a petcock and 5/16" fuel line. I went with the "rubber line option" because of the vibration factor coming from the engine.

The petcock was purchased on eBay, the brass fitting was purchased at a Sears Hardware store, and 12" of 5/16" fuel line was purchased at PepBoys Auto Parts.

Keywords: 2007 Cub Cadet rzt 50 22 hp Kawasaki 50 inch Zero-Turn Rider MTD Oil Leak Oil Change

(pictures and parts shown below)