ever used rislone compression repair or ring seal

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I was recommend rislone compression repair and ring seal for my Saturn compression is about perfect but it uses oil because of oil control rings would any of these have a snow balls chance in [censored] in working or helping at all? Thanks guys
 
I wouldn't...those cheap oil thickeners, I've read, are often what cause rings to gum up - they are made from cheap, gummy VII-stuff.
 
I figured there was no hope. I knew Saturn used oil when I bought it but i didn't think it would bother me this bad . But I tell ya its pretty annoying. I guess I shoukd be so critical and I don't know if it ever smokes a little when I drive but.I dint want to be that guy they all point at and say look at that [censored] car its ready to die.LOL
 
IMHO don't waste your mullah on those OTC additives as a quick fix. NOthing will fix stuck oil control rings due to faulty designs to begin with.

The only way to deal with your problem is to do a re-ring job: that includes the removal of all your pistons so that you can scrape the carbon off of the control rings and then re-ring with fresh new ones.

Good luck.

Q.

p.s. All Saturn oil burners I dealt with pretty much boils down to stuck oil control rings due to fundamental design issues. A fresh re-ring job + the use of strong detergency oil (such as API SN/ILSAC GF5 and/or Pennzoil Ultra) would go a long way before they become jammed again.
 
Just throwing it out there........do you think an additive that deals with carbon such as Seafoam or that new one from STP would do anything to free the carbon from those stuck rings or does it get carboned up so bad that you have to pull it out and scrape it?
 
imagine the "obstacles" that a liquid will have to go through (when introduced from the combustion chamber side, i.e. spark plug holes, using gravity) to get to the already stuck(carboned) oil control rings...you should know the possible outcomes already, in terms of effectiveness.

No, IMHO once they're stuck, they are pretty much stuck. There's very little you can do to free/remove those carbon that jammed the oil control rings unless you remove the piston from the block assembly and clean them manually (oil control rings removed).

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
imagine the "obstacles" that a liquid will have to go through (when introduced from the combustion chamber side, i.e. spark plug holes, using gravity) to get to the already stuck(carboned) oil control rings...you should know the possible outcomes already, in terms of effectiveness.

No, IMHO once they're stuck, they are pretty much stuck. There's very little you can do to free/remove those carbon that jammed the oil control rings unless you remove the piston from the block assembly and clean them manually (oil control rings removed).

Q.


One would think that a long term piston soak with a suitable chemical has a fighting chance. If it is a daily driver, then only overnight soak is possible but certainly worth a try with Kreen or similar chemical.
 
There are very few bottle additives worth having IMO and they are almost all cleaners. All that stuff did is thicken your oil so much it's now not performing its primary purpose as well as it should be.

Rislone engine cleaner, Marvel, and Techron (all cleaners) have worked well for me. I read Sea Foam and Kreen (cleaners again) are good too...beyond that it's mostly snake oil IMO. You're just not going to find a major engine fix in a bottle.
 
I just thought maybe they would help clean and condition my cylinders I was skeptical that's why I I asked first all that's in my car is Mobil 1 I dont put anything else in my oil unless I'm positive it'll help with something
 
All I've done is piston soaks mmo delco soaks and seafoam through intake and piston soak. Also used b-12 and have used mmo in my gas tanks
 
Repeat after me: I have a Saturn...It uses oil...I will not be ashamed....

I have been looking for the holy grail for years (without doing a rebuild). My experience it is hit and miss with the various piston soaks, etc. Sometimes it works well. Sometimes it increases consumption.

To put it in perspective. Luke at Saturnfansforums has over 650,000 miles on his 95 SL2. He uses a quart per 500 miles or so and gets over 40 mpg.

Check your oil. Add oil. Change oil. Buy oil. Learn about oil. Enjoy your car. It can be that simple.
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
All I've done is piston soaks mmo delco soaks and seafoam through intake and piston soak. Also used b-12 and have used mmo in my gas tanks


Seafoam instructions say just to add it to the oil, and make no mention of any soak. As a matter of fact, MMO's bottle makes no mention of any piston soak, either. I have seen lots of people that tried that with MMO, and had no success. MMO's bottle says to add a qt of MMO to the oil when you change it.

Putting anything into the intake or fuel is not likely to help fix oil consumption, unless you got to a mix as thick as a 2 cycle, at which point I bet it would kill the cat.

I have tried the Rislone ring seal on my Saturn and would absolutely NOT recommend it. So far the best thing I've found to reduce oil consumption in the Saturn is Casite Motor Honey. I used to buy Valvoline VSOT but its no longer available. I would guess that Schaeffer 132 Moly E.P. Oil Treatment would be good, but its expensive for a Saturn. My future oil changes on my Saturn's will have Motor Honey and MMO added to 5W 30 oil and a longer FL400S style filter (I got some PL20195 on sale). That should keep things clean internally (lifters especially are a problem) and keep consumption to a reasonable level.
 
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I am impressed with Kreen. I have not yet tried a piston soak. I recently added Kreen to the crankcase and fuel in my truck and my Nissan. I can feel that the motors run smoother and just plain better. The Nissan is getting better mpg's by at least 10%. I could feel almost immediate improvements in the way they run.. I have always seen carbon build up on pistons and down into the ring pack, even in 'clean' motors. There is always some carbon on the pistons. With the [censored] they sell us for gas it is no surprise. Cleaning of the rings would help most any motor, I am thinking. I dont think it would hurt to try the soak on an oil burner...
 
Originally Posted By: ddtmoto
I am impressed with Kreen. I have not yet tried a piston soak. I recently added Kreen to the crankcase and fuel in my truck and my Nissan. I can feel that the motors run smoother and just plain better. The Nissan is getting better mpg's by at least 10%. I could feel almost immediate improvements in the way they run.. I have always seen carbon build up on pistons and down into the ring pack, even in 'clean' motors. There is always some carbon on the pistons. With the [censored] they sell us for gas it is no surprise. Cleaning of the rings would help most any motor, I am thinking. I dont think it would hurt to try the soak on an oil burner...


No offense intended, but what is "Kreen", how much does it cost, what is it made out of, how much do you add to what/when, and what is it supposed to do? I've never seen it in ANY store, and I can't think of an autoparts store I haven't been to.
 
Nevermind... I did some hunting around. Its $15 a qt and basically solvents in an oil base like Seafoam and MMO. The MMO is 1/3 the price of the Kreen stuff. I didn't have any Kreen to test cleaning ability when I did my test to be able to judge it myself, so I won't.

BTW: None of these products are going to increase fuel economy by 10% unless you have a badly sludged component ruining economy. I can't even imagine having an engine that badly sludged.
 
Beg to differ. When the ring pack carbons up from this junk gas/corn liquor and some comp is lost, getting said comp back will very likely improve power, smoothness, and perhaps, even mpg. Seeing is believing sir.... Carbon, not sludge in the case of my Nissan.. Kreen works much, much better with this motor's needs than anything I have tried in the crankcase.
 
I would expect oil rings to be sludged up, not carboned. By my way of thinking, I would think a vigorous campaign of dosing the oil with a solvent and short interval oil changes would be the way to go.
 
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