Heavy Deposits In Motor

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I have used 2 treatments of DeepCreep, once Seafoam through PVC, piston soak Seafoam (about a table spoon) BG44K in tank and just did the B-12 Chemtool® Total Combustion System Cleaning Kit treatment and every time I do a treatment I get major smoke clean out.

I am thinking about doing water carbon removal but like I said in another post, how do I know when I need to stop trying remove the deposits?

94 Land Cruiser with 365,000 mi running high NOx. Ran with no O2 for 1.5 year and have slight start up smoke from leaking valve guides. Guess that could of made some major deposits???

Fixed EGR and replaced O2's and NOx is going down but not enough.

With all the additives and treatments and that I still get smoke from treatments, does that smoke say I still have deposits in motor?
Should I keep trying more treatments?
 
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Go from there really. AutoRx seems to work wonders for almost everyone including myself. Not sure if it'll cure the smoke but at the very least, you know you've probably done the best in removing sludge, deposits, etc.
 
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What color is the smoke? Black/dark = gunk coming loose. White/light grey = mostly chemical burn off/expelling(which means you are either clean or those chemicals arent doing a good job, likely you are 'mostly' clean if its not black smoke during use of chemicals).

You have done enough so far, IMO.

Piston soak again, with a different chemical maybe...perhaps a top-end soak with a foam spray type product(Amsoil Power Foam, GM top end or Mopar/AC Delco combustion chamber cleaner)???

Can you see the piston heads to visibly tell how much metal is bare or not??? Have you inspected your spark plugs?
 
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Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have used 2 treatments of DeepCreep, once Seafoam through PVC, piston soak Seafoam (about a table spoon) BG44K in tank and just did the B-12 Chemtool® Total Combustion System Cleaning Kit treatment and every time I do a treatment I get major smoke clean out.

I am thinking about doing water carbon removal but like I said in another post, how do I know when I need to stop trying remove the deposits?

94 Land Cruiser with 365,000 mi running high NOx. Ran with no O2 for 1.5 year and have slight start up smoke from leaking valve guides. Guess that could of made some major deposits???

Fixed EGR and replaced O2's and NOx is going down but not enough.

With all the additives and treatments and that I still get smoke from treatments, does that smoke say I still have deposits in motor?
Should I keep trying more treatments?



The only product that will probably help those leaky valve guides is KREEN. MMO might work, but it will take more time than Kreen.

Kreen can be used in both the fuel and oil. What motor oil are you using, and how often do you change your oil.
 
How Kreen supposed to help leaks? It cleans good, but none reported that it stopped even a small leak. It actually melts some types of plastic.
If it is same Landcruiser that we seen pictures recently -- ARX is too [censored] slow and it will take forever to clean that engine.
Kreen in oil -short run, then soak, drain. Repeat. (so 2 OCIs)
Then sub 1q of oil for MMO for couple runs. Switch to Maxlife after cleaning runs.
To help with leak you can add Lubro Moly Oil saver and/or MoS2.
Add MMO as needed afterward for normal OCI (for example engine holds 5.4 qt of oil. Instead of buying additional quart just add 03 or 0.4 qt MMO). As top end cleaner-- PowerFoam works good. MMO and Kreen in gas wont hurt ether.
All products proven to work and reasonable priced.
 
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I'd give Kreen a shot followed by a HM oil to help with engine seals and gaskets. With close to 400K miles on the engine I'd say there's wear and getting it to run perfect is probably not going to happen. JMO
 
Quote:
every time I do a treatment I get major smoke clean out.


The smoke show from Sea Foam is worthless and meaningless. Do it on a brand new engine and you get the same result, its the oil burning in the cat and exhaust system.

GM and Mopar Top Engine Cleaners are the best in the business if your looking to clean combustion chamber deposits with an overnight soak, Kreen works pretty well for this also but is better in the oil for cleaning rings and varnish deposits.
Water does a great job but you need to be very careful not to hydro lock the engine if you put too much in to quickly.

At almost 400K and now using oil the cat maybe close to EOL.
If possible retard the timing a couple of degrees and/or try higher octane fuel to reduce combustion chamber temperatures.
It may get the NOx down just enough.

Forget the ARX.
To be perfectly honest i tried this product many many times and spent hundreds on it, the stuff simply didn't work as advertised.
 
Run about an ounce of 2-stroke oil (ISO-L-EGD) per 5 gallons of gas. If it can keep 2-stroke motors clean it should be able to help clean yours.
 
use Kreen. order 2 qts as a minimum.

most folks on here talk of using it for a short run....put 1 qt in the oil on top of a full crank case, dont worry about the over-fill.

leave it in for at least 3K, let it do its work, it will be fine with no worries, at the same time, put a Qt in the gas but follow the Kreen:gas ratio to the words on the can!!

Kreen is the stuff!
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have used 2 treatments of DeepCreep, once Seafoam through PVC, piston soak Seafoam (about a table spoon) BG44K in tank and just did the B-12 Chemtool® Total Combustion System Cleaning Kit treatment and every time I do a treatment I get major smoke clean out.

I am thinking about doing water carbon removal but like I said in another post, how do I know when I need to stop trying remove the deposits?

94 Land Cruiser with 365,000 mi running high NOx. Ran with no O2 for 1.5 year and have slight start up smoke from leaking valve guides. Guess that could of made some major deposits???

Fixed EGR and replaced O2's and NOx is going down but not enough.

With all the additives and treatments and that I still get smoke from treatments, does that smoke say I still have deposits in motor?
Should I keep trying more treatments?


How did you find out you had deposits in the first place?
 
Why do you believe you still have deposits? Those oil-based treatments themselves generate all the smoke you see, it has nothing to do with any deposits being removed.

Water injection is THE best combustion chamber cleaner there is, but if you're doing it as a hand-spritzed treatment you have to be really careful not to hydro-lock the engine. Lots of modern intake systems have twists and bends so that you run the risk of all the water "pooling" in a low spot and then getting slugged into a cylinder when you open the throttle- instant bent connecting rod. Its most effective when the water can be precisely injected with the engine operating under load, as a real water/alcohol injection system for anti-detonation does. I've always thought about routing a hose from the windshield washer pump and aiming it right at the throttle body would be a good way to "blip" water into the intake while driving the car so you could do it at WOT and under load, minimizing the risk of damage and maximizing the effectiveness.
 
Quote:
put 1 qt in the oil on top of a full crank case

Kano only recommends this for a 60 min flush not to be run a full OCI.
Kreen is some very strong solvents i would stick with 3oz per qt to run it 3K.
Too much of a good thing can be really bad in this case.

Kreen recommends 16 oz in the oil, when i spoke to Kano they said it is based on a 5qt sump. I rounded it off to 3oz per qt and use it at that dosage with good results and no problems.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Quote:
put 1 qt in the oil on top of a full crank case

Kano only recommends this for a 60 min flush not to be run a full OCI.
Kreen is some very strong solvents i would stick with 3oz per qt to run it 3K.
Too much of a good thing can be really bad in this case.

Kreen recommends 16 oz in the oil, when i spoke to Kano they said it is based on a 5qt sump. I rounded it off to 3oz per qt and use it at that dosage with good results and no problems.


Yes, please do not use more than the 3oz/Quart treatment dosage. Kreen isn't to be used like MMO.
 
Kreen is a right now kind of product. Use it for quick results. At the same time respect it for being a very strong cleaner. Over doing it may be risky. And it will not magically repair an old tired engine.

We used it with dramatic results on our fleet trucks. I mean DRAMATIC! I never got a thing out of ARX except a lighter wallet.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Why do you believe you still have deposits? Those oil-based treatments themselves generate all the smoke you see, it has nothing to do with any deposits being removed.

Water injection is THE best combustion chamber cleaner there is, but if you're doing it as a hand-spritzed treatment you have to be really careful not to hydro-lock the engine. Lots of modern intake systems have twists and bends so that you run the risk of all the water "pooling" in a low spot and then getting slugged into a cylinder when you open the throttle- instant bent connecting rod. Its most effective when the water can be precisely injected with the engine operating under load, as a real water/alcohol injection system for anti-detonation does. I've always thought about routing a hose from the windshield washer pump and aiming it right at the throttle body would be a good way to "blip" water into the intake while driving the car so you could do it at WOT and under load, minimizing the risk of damage and maximizing the effectiveness.


This is more like it!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I never got a thing out of ARX except a lighter wallet.


Has anyone on this Forum seen any results from using ARX.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Why do you believe you still have deposits? Those oil-based treatments themselves generate all the smoke you see, it has nothing to do with any deposits being removed.

Water injection is THE best combustion chamber cleaner there is, but if you're doing it as a hand-spritzed treatment you have to be really careful not to hydro-lock the engine. Lots of modern intake systems have twists and bends so that you run the risk of all the water "pooling" in a low spot and then getting slugged into a cylinder when you open the throttle- instant bent connecting rod. Its most effective when the water can be precisely injected with the engine operating under load, as a real water/alcohol injection system for anti-detonation does. I've always thought about routing a hose from the windshield washer pump and aiming it right at the throttle body would be a good way to "blip" water into the intake while driving the car so you could do it at WOT and under load, minimizing the risk of damage and maximizing the effectiveness.


This is more like it!


Agreed, this is the best solution that will solve most of your problem. .
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I get blue smoke with the treatments.
It was dark with the B-12 but it made a big cloud going down the road.


uh oh, thats motor oil burning off...

its mostly a mechanical problem so i'd think oil isnt going to help much.
 
I think I have oil leaking past the valve guide seals. Two of the 6 spark plugs had oil on the threads.
My thinking is that the oil is soaking into the carbon/build up on the piston. I have noticed that after the B-12 treatment I have not see as much (hardly any) start up smoke. Maybe the build up is going away.

What color smoke would there be from gas leaking and soaking into the buildup as it is burned off if that was my problem?
 
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