Bendix CT-3 Brake Pad Review

[Smokefan1977]

Our 2007 Was due for pads. I looked at all of my options including Motorcraft I could get at Wholesale. After much research I decided to order some Bendix CT-3 ceramic pad from Summit Racing. I did front and rear.

Cost wise these pads were the same as Premium Motorcraft pads at my cost.

I recieved my order and opened to inspect. packaging was really nice and All hardware was included and is high quality

Couple of weeks ago i did the work. At 90,000 miles the factory pads were pretty shot in the front and had maybe 20% in rear remaining.....Im proud of my wife for not killing the pads.

The 04-07 require new hub nuts so those were supplied by ford. I cut the rotors and the install of the pads were just perfect. Fit and finish of these pads were spot on and all of the hardware fit perfect with no issues.Also flushed and bled the system

I did my bed in of the pads and let my wife drive it for a couple of weeks. I did an in spection this morning and everything looks great. the pads are quiet, stopping power increased and dusting is much less. At this point i dont see why these pads wouldn't last aslong if not longer then the motorcraft pads.

If your in the market for some new pads i would highly reccomend checking out the Bendix CT-3 pads. I was so impressed i just ordered a set to have on hand for my next brake job on my 99.

This entire 4 wheel brake job cost just shy of $150.00

 

[JHZR2]

+1 for Bendix.

 

[stephen9666]

Where were your pads made? I recently installed CT-3s on my Hyundai. The ones I bought were made in Canada. One of the reasons I chose them is because I knew they weren't made in China.


Also, what procedure did you use to bed them in?

I bedded mine in with the 30-30-30 method Bendix recommends on their website, but it overheated the pads and glazed them. It took 4k miles to wear though the glaze. Now they stop well and overall are great pads.

Link to my CT-3 review.

 

[Smokefan1977]

made in Canada which is fine with me.

I did the same breakin I have done for years a few accels up to 50 and then hard stops to 20. I usually repeat this 5 times. This is the process i learned in Tech school and have just stayed with and always had great results.

Many other methods including bendix method will result in Glazed pad, rotors, and warped Rotors.

Im still expecting braking to increase slightly but so far im very happy with these pads

 

[ChiTDI]

+1. Yup.

 

[mechtech2]

A two week review is not going to be very valid.

 

[SteveSRT8]

X2, not even broken in well yet.

And note that the bedding procedure has to be carefully gauged against the platform. A regular car with typical spindly brakes doesn't need to be pounded on so much, a high performance car with huge rotors needs it.

 

[Smokefan1977]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
A two week review is not going to be very valid.


This is about as worthless of a comment as you can get. This is clearly an intial impression an as I stated i do expect braking to increase as the pads bed in.

Some of the post i see people write

 

[vssjim]

The aftermarket motorcraft brake parts I have seen are not the same as oe installed parts as most of the motorcrafts parts I have seen were made in China, pads, shoes, hardware etc. Just ford makes money for reselling china parts with ford on the box even their ads in magazines don't say put on the parts it came with just parts that match the brand of car with the printing on the box. We have had great results with Akebono pads at work for the last few years they stop good, pedal feel is good,no noise, good on rotors, no dust.

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: Smokefan1977
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
A two week review is not going to be very valid.


This is about as worthless of a comment as you can get. This is clearly an intial impression an as I stated i do expect braking to increase as the pads bed in.

Some of the post i see people write

No, you are in error .
I pointed out an important fact.
No need to get defensive and pi--y.
It is the two week review that is almost worthless.
After performing countless brake jobs, I am well aware tht brand new parts work OK to very well.

 

[Donald]

I agree, check back with us in a year and let us know how they worked.

 

[stephen9666]

I just wrote a 10k mile update on the CT-3s I installed in my Hyundai.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2238394#Post2238394

They've been working great for me. I'd recommend them to anyone, as long as you don't glaze them during break in like I did.

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I just wrote a 10k mile update on the CT-3s I installed in my Hyundai.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2238394#Post2238394

They've been working great for me. I'd recommend them to anyone, as long as you don't glaze them during break in like I did.

How do you improperly glaze a brake pad? What do you mean by glazed?
They do look glazed when working right.

 

[Trav]

The best description i read is..
Quote:
crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I just wrote a 10k mile update on the CT-3s I installed in my Hyundai.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2238394#Post2238394

They've been working great for me. I'd recommend them to anyone, as long as you don't glaze them during break in like I did.

How do you improperly glaze a brake pad? What do you mean by glazed?
They do look glazed when working right.


I think I stopped too aggressively and overheated them, even though I followed Bendix's recommended break-in procedure.

I'm also a little surprised someone with 14k posts doesn't know what brake pad glazing is. I didn't determine they were glazed by looking at them, I determined they were glazed because after break in the stopping performance was very poor. After 4k miles of driving it appears I wore through the overheated pad material and the car started stopping great. The pads have now been performing very well for the last 6k miles.

As I wrote in my 10k mile update, I would recommend these pads to anyone, but go easy on the break in. I followed a recommendation from Bendix, but it overheated the pads and glazed them.

Here's a definition from a brake website.


What causes brake pad glazing?

Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated.
This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc.
Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder, and cracks or fissures in the brake pad material.
Pad glazing is typically caused by operating the brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not properly following the 'Bedding-in' instructions for the brake pads. Always follow the manufacturers brake pad bedding-in instructions and use a brake pad that has a temperature range that is sufficient for its intended use.