2000 Kia Sephia

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I will soon be gaining the use of a Sephia 4 cyl automatic w/127 k.Seems to run well with one exception--when you are stopped at a stop light etc with the car in drive the car vibrates/shudders while idling.Idling in park this does not happen.This was the reason my stepdaughter stopped driving it.
I had her shift between gears while I had the hood up and watched the engine.There was about 3/4 inch travel of the engine while doing this.So apparently the engine mounts are good.
Could this be a tranny issue?I am pretty sure the trans has not been serviced.I am thinking of doing a flush and filter change in addition to the usual oil change and tune up that i do to each vehicle i get.
Any ideas or suggestions on this problem or any ideas for upgrdes during the tune up.
 
Check the motor mount on the front of the engine near the strut tower. Might not move much but will allow the engine vibration to go through the body. Happens alot to the focus.
 
If you hold the car in Drive with the brake with your left foot and slightly crowd the throttle with your right foot, so the engine speed raises just slightly, does the vibration disappear?
 
When did it have the plugs replaced? How about some Techron concentrated cleaner or Regane in the gas to make sure the injectors are clean. Could be either one of these causing a rough idle. FWIW--Oldtommy
 
Just checked the idle with varying speeds.At regular idle in drive there is 4-5 mm of bounce in the steering wheel.Regular idle in reverse there is 1 mm of bounce .Slightly increased idle caused the vibration to go away in drive and reverse.
Not sure when the plugs were changed.The oil is clear and dark amber,tranny fluid is dark red w/no smell.There are old brake pads in the trunk so some maintenance was done by stepgirls boyfriend.
 
Your method for testing engine mounts is... less than adequate. I don't know how the engine mounts are setup on this engine but on many small 4 cylinders there is one rear motor mount that controls engine travel. Then there's a passenger side and driver side engine mount that hold the engine/transmission up and prevent vibrations from being transmitted to the frame of the car.

I still think it's the engine mounts. It is the most likely reason as well as being the most common reason. Most other problems with the transmission/engine would have effects other than just a vibration. I would go even further to say that it's most likely an engine mount close to the transmission but again I don't know how the engine mounts are setup in this car.
 
I'm leaning towards it being a motor mount also.An earlier poster asked the question about varying the idle speed in gear.Not sure why .Maybe the answer will give an insight as to which motor mount is worn.
I've had several cars with busted motor mounts.The checking of engine movement is a quick way to narrow down which one it is.Since there is no bucking of the engine that should leave out the front/rear mounts that control the engine torque movement.So it is probably one of the side mounts.Maybe i'll be lucky and it is the one near the strut tower as an earlier poster suggested,as it is the easiest to replace.BUT with my luck it won't be.lol
 
Originally Posted By: urrlord
An earlier poster asked the question about varying the idle speed in gear.Not sure why .Maybe the answer will give an insight as to which motor mount is worn.


I asked it because I'm not sure the problem is an engine mount. And the your answer pushes me further in that direction. The fact that there's significant buzz in the steering wheel at idle in drive, but less in reverse (meaning a slightly different RPM probably), and none when you raise the idle a little bit more, leads me to believe that there's an issue with either the idle speed or the idle speed controller (or whatever type of system that engine uses to meter air at idle). Or perhaps even valves slightly out of adjustment.

I believe if it were an engine mount, you'd have a much different feel...as in banging or thudding when taking off from a stop or shifting between gears. The steering wheel shake is, to me, indicative of a small 4-cylinder engine that's not idling quite right. Check on whatever system that car uses to meter air at idle speed. Even check to see if the throttle butterfly is caked with soot or carbon and clean that.
 
Originally Posted By: urrlord

I've had several cars with busted motor mounts.The checking of engine movement is a quick way to narrow down which one it is.Since there is no bucking of the engine that should leave out the front/rear mounts that control the engine torque movement.



I know on my TDi (much different car, of course) at least one engine mount was replaced because it was "soft". I looked at it, and it was not "broken". I think they use dampers inside some of the mounts; they may not be simple rubber/metal sandwiches.
 
Thanks people.I won't be driving the vehicle for another week or two.So it looks like when I do:
1)tank of good gas with some good treatment in order.
2)Find the IAC or its equivalent and clean it.
3)Then replace the suspect motor mount if the symptom persists.
On top of a probable plug/wire change etc.
Still cheap stuff for the use of a car.It is drivable without fixing the idle/vibration but annoying.So why not fix it.

p.s. this is whats great about this site.you can ask a question on just about anything and people will chime in.
 
I've been driving this car for about a two weeks now.I had gas treatment in the first tank of gas,I sprayed cleaner down the throttle body.This smoothed out the idle a bit,it's still rough though.
Since I've been driving it I have noticed creaks/groans coming from the front passenger side engine compartment area.Which is where the strut tower mount is.So it looks like every one was right in their diagnoses.lol.
Once I figure out how to get the IAC off I'll clean that,Dirty IAC's seem to be a common KIA problem.

thanks everyone.
 
I honestly would not put any serious money into this car..As long as takes you from point A to point B it is good enough..I would not worry about creaks and groans..While the car is running well [and I hope it does for long time] you might want to consider something a bit more reliable..This will give you time to find something..I had a cousin and another friend [who both babied their cars] that had the exact same car so that is why I am recommending this.

That is just IMHO that's all.
 
Clean up the idle air passages, and the idle should smooth right out. How easy is the throttle body to remove, and does it need a new gasket to do so?

Also, does the engine use a MAP or MAF sensor for fuel metering? If it's a MAF, that likely could go with a cleaning when you're cleaning up the idle air control mechanism.
 
Originally Posted By: snapcrackle12
Check the motor mount on the front of the engine near the strut tower. Might not move much but will allow the engine vibration to go through the body. Happens alot to the focus.


Yep. That mount in the Focus can also take in water, which can freeze, giving you an AWFUL shudder in reverse, or in D while idling if it's bad enough.
 
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