Hello all. I'm going to be replacing the intake manifold gasket on my old (93) Chevy pickup. It's the 350, and when you pop the hood, you can actually see the engine. It's the first "new" vehicle I ever bought. I bought it in 94, with about 10K miles on her. Anyways, long story short, I'm replacing the intake manifold gasket. External coolant leak. It looks like a fairly straight-forward task. I've done some looking on the web, and found a few "how-to" videos. Anyways, is there anything else I should do, or look at, while I have it torn down? I don't want to get too carried away. I'm thinking about putting new valve stem seals on it. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures for ya! Thanks!
Replacing intake manifold gasket
- Thread starter Bamboooo
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Originally Posted By: Bamboooo
Hello all. I'm going to be replacing the intake manifold gasket on my old (93) Chevy pickup. It's the 350, and when you pop the hood, you can actually see the engine. It's the first "new" vehicle I ever bought. I bought it in 94, with about 10K miles on her. Anyways, long story short, I'm replacing the intake manifold gasket. External coolant leak. It looks like a fairly straight-forward task. I've done some looking on the web, and found a few "how-to" videos. Anyways, is there anything else I should do, or look at, while I have it torn down? I don't want to get too carried away. I'm thinking about putting new valve stem seals on it. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures for ya! Thanks!
they have a quick release nipple in front of the intake that always leak and are a PITA to remove, it would be much easier to replace with the intake off also they never release which kind of defeats the purpose. also felpro seem to be good about fixing the shorts comings of the gm intake gaskets, i'd only use felpro.
Hello all. I'm going to be replacing the intake manifold gasket on my old (93) Chevy pickup. It's the 350, and when you pop the hood, you can actually see the engine. It's the first "new" vehicle I ever bought. I bought it in 94, with about 10K miles on her. Anyways, long story short, I'm replacing the intake manifold gasket. External coolant leak. It looks like a fairly straight-forward task. I've done some looking on the web, and found a few "how-to" videos. Anyways, is there anything else I should do, or look at, while I have it torn down? I don't want to get too carried away. I'm thinking about putting new valve stem seals on it. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures for ya! Thanks!
they have a quick release nipple in front of the intake that always leak and are a PITA to remove, it would be much easier to replace with the intake off also they never release which kind of defeats the purpose. also felpro seem to be good about fixing the shorts comings of the gm intake gaskets, i'd only use felpro.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
Usually, but I have replaced them in the past with a nipple type fitting the screws into where the quick disconnect is. Then you can just slide the hose over it and clamp it.
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Defintely go with FelPro gasket..it is fairly straight forward but as long as your tackling this might as well but the FelPro kit for the motor and raplace all the gaskets should also come with new injector O rings to prevent fuel leakage...depending on how your idle is and how well you keep up with fuel cleaner you may want to think about newer injectors they tend to clog and cause misfires after a while...you should be able to upgrade to a more efficient injector
I would recommend using RTV instead of the rubber end seals (they will slip out). Make sure you clean both surfaces very good with brake clean.
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Clean things clean!
The gasket surface faces of the manifold and heads need to be down to the metal. A scotchbrite on a drill works well, but take preventative steps to keep debris out of the engine!
Good time for a new thermostat, BTW.
I often use a little sealer around the water ports.
The gasket surface faces of the manifold and heads need to be down to the metal. A scotchbrite on a drill works well, but take preventative steps to keep debris out of the engine!
Good time for a new thermostat, BTW.
I often use a little sealer around the water ports.
Woo! Well, I just finished up my project last night about midnight. Started at about 3 or so, with a few runs to the parts store. Everything went fairly well. I did replace the heater hose connector, and had to replace the TPS sensor that I broke while remove the throttle body. Other than that, it was just tedious. Lots of cleaning. Had a difficult time getting the distributor back in and lined up correctly. Had to find a bigger hammer. Just kidding. Just went out and started it up. Just briefly, to make sure it would start. And it did.Getting ready to change the oil. Probably run it for a hundred miles or so, then change it again.
I used the high temp RTV with copper compound in it. Figured it was better than the black. Just want to make sure it doesn't leak again. I smeared a thin, light coat on the gaskets too. Probably won't run it til tomorrow, just to be sure the RTV is cured. Thank you all for your input.
I used the high temp RTV with copper compound in it. Figured it was better than the black. Just want to make sure it doesn't leak again. I smeared a thin, light coat on the gaskets too. Probably won't run it til tomorrow, just to be sure the RTV is cured. Thank you all for your input.
Doesnt matter what color the RTV is. It shouldn't be used where excess will be inside the engine passages. AMHIK. I used it on a water pump on my Jeep. I found bits of it every time I messed with the cooling system. I replaced the pump during an engine swap. I had to drive the pump off the timing cover with the butt of a 2x4. Since then, I went back to using Permatex 2B for this stuff.
Always do what the gasket manufacturer says. Many gaskets are updated/improved since the production of the vehicle started.
RTV is not recommended on many gaskets.
RTV is not recommended on many gaskets.
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