There is.
Mobil One 0W-40, 2001 Porsche 996 Turbo
- Thread starter Quattro Pete
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Hmmm....at a 187 mph, I presume you were on a fairly straight portion of road when you snapped that shot?
I had a friend move my Turbo for me while I was away. He sent me this photo to reassure me that my car was still ok. Nice guy.. So I presume so too!quote:
Originally posted by 427Z06:
Hmmm....at a 187 mph, I presume you were on a fairly straight portion of road when you snapped that shot?
Oh, all modern Porsche read almost exactly 10 km/h fast on the speedo above 100 km/h. So really only 291 km/h.
If you are interested, I have photos of that car here:
My car photos
Stephen
What are the miles on the vehicle at those OCIs?
Considering too high level of fuel content in the oil it would be wise 1). to reduce oil interval, 2). to use ester oils like Motul 300V or heavier weights like 5W-50/10W-50.
From experience, I've learned that the high fuel levels are due to missing at high RPM's. This is caused by worn out spark plugs. As soon as I change the plugs the boost level goes back up and the car has noticably more power (the ECU is reducing the boost and probably retarding the ignition due to the missing). The last set of plugs to come out of the car looked really bad. About 20,000 km. is their limit if the car is driven hard. The missing allows unburned fuel to pass into the oil.
Once I saw this information in the oil analysis I was sold on the oil analysis as a diagnostic tool. I had similar results on my S4 due to similar sorts of problems.
The viscosity of the oil is critical to the varo-cam system in the Porsche Turbo engine. A thicker oil probably would be ok in warmer climates but in the cold it could cause problems.
I have been changing the oil & filter at 10,000 km (half way between the factory service interval). So I am already changing it a lot more frequently than most people in Europe. My dealer thinks I'm nuts!
Stephen
Then ester based oil. Their natural polarity usually helps in case of a fuel dilution. Even 5W-40 synthetic or 10W-40 semi-synthetic oils might work better than 0W-40. As for spark plugs, may be to try Denso Iridium Longlife (0.7 mm) if any ?
http://www.densoiridium.com/find_part.php?type=auto&autoYear=2003&make=PORSCHE&action=Search
Makes sense. Are there any ester based oils available in Europe that are 0W-40? If not, what would you recommend at 5W-40?? I'd also be curious what others might recommend as available oils in the USA (wouldn't be the first time I've carried engine oil across the Atlantic).
I didn't see the latest set of spark plugs until after the car was back together else I would have asked them to put a colder plug in. In fact, there hasn't been a lot of experimentation with spark plugs and these cars. I've heard that the car just won't run with the Iridiums in it. But I don't really know what it will run with.
On my Audi S4, I'm using the Bosch Platin F5DP0R which is a favourite with the B5 S4 community:
Bosch Platin spark plugs
I'm very pleased with their performance. I've heard a lot of negative feedback with the Itidiums in the Audi.
Thanx for the feedback! I appreciate it.
Stephen
I thought I would add to the collective knowledge with my own results on my Porsche 996 Turbo.
Things to know:
1) The car is in Europe. It sees hard use with lots of high-speed highway use and no commuting. Often it has seen 5000+ RPM and 0.3 Bar boost for hours on end. It has also seen a good deal of track time at the Nürburgring.
2) The oil is exclusively Mobil One 0W-40 however, some of it has been from Mobil USA and some from Mobil France. The viscosities on those two oils differed.
3) This boxer engine normally consumes oil so there is quite a bit of “top-up” oil between changes.
4) The total oil capacity is about 12 litres but only 8 litres can normally be drained so an oil change only changes 2/3rd of the oil in the engine.
5) The high fuel level in the oil has always been due to spark plugs. This engine, if used really hard, consumes plugs about ever 20,000 km.
6) Factory specified change interval in Europe is 20,000 km. (15,000 miles in the USA).
7) The oil analysis was done by Analysts, Inc. and purchased through Larry Turner, http://www.rennlist.com/spnsrs/youroil.html.
Stephen
Date 02-Dec-02 16-Jun-03 03-Nov-03
Km. 9000 12940 9120
Iron 29 26 26
Chromium Nickel 1 2 Aluminium 10 9 10
Lead 9 11 11
Copper 19 21 20
Tin Silver Titanium Silicon 13 6 6
Boron 116 140 172
Sodium 7 10 12
Potassium 13 10 Molybdenum Phosphorus 1204 884 1285
Zinc 1251 1023 1108
Calcium 1777 2455 3034
Barium Magnesium 505 182 78
Antimony Vanadium Fuel %VOL 8.8 2.3 4.0
ABS OXID 12 9 19
WTR %VOL - VIC CS 100C 11.5 12.0 12.9
SAE GRADE 30 30 40
GLY TEST - NEG NEG
[Is there no way to make nice tables?]
[ November 28, 2004, 12:25 PM: Message edited by: FixedWing ]
Things to know:
1) The car is in Europe. It sees hard use with lots of high-speed highway use and no commuting. Often it has seen 5000+ RPM and 0.3 Bar boost for hours on end. It has also seen a good deal of track time at the Nürburgring.
2) The oil is exclusively Mobil One 0W-40 however, some of it has been from Mobil USA and some from Mobil France. The viscosities on those two oils differed.
3) This boxer engine normally consumes oil so there is quite a bit of “top-up” oil between changes.
4) The total oil capacity is about 12 litres but only 8 litres can normally be drained so an oil change only changes 2/3rd of the oil in the engine.
5) The high fuel level in the oil has always been due to spark plugs. This engine, if used really hard, consumes plugs about ever 20,000 km.
6) Factory specified change interval in Europe is 20,000 km. (15,000 miles in the USA).
7) The oil analysis was done by Analysts, Inc. and purchased through Larry Turner, http://www.rennlist.com/spnsrs/youroil.html.
Stephen
Date 02-Dec-02 16-Jun-03 03-Nov-03
Km. 9000 12940 9120
Iron 29 26 26
Chromium Nickel 1 2 Aluminium 10 9 10
Lead 9 11 11
Copper 19 21 20
Tin Silver Titanium Silicon 13 6 6
Boron 116 140 172
Sodium 7 10 12
Potassium 13 10 Molybdenum Phosphorus 1204 884 1285
Zinc 1251 1023 1108
Calcium 1777 2455 3034
Barium Magnesium 505 182 78
Antimony Vanadium Fuel %VOL 8.8 2.3 4.0
ABS OXID 12 9 19
WTR %VOL - VIC CS 100C 11.5 12.0 12.9
SAE GRADE 30 30 40
GLY TEST - NEG NEG
[Is there no way to make nice tables?]
[ November 28, 2004, 12:25 PM: Message edited by: FixedWing ]
.3 bar of boost? That's only about 5 psi. Do ya mean 1.3?
No. The engine is completely stock. Maximum is 0.8 bar. 0.3 bar at that RPM in a cruising situation (i.e. continuous rather than just a quick dab of the throttle) is actually quite a lot. Most engines most of the time would show a vacuum situation.
Stephen
FixedWing,
Sport teams or tuning ateliers usually do not recommed 0W-40 oils because there is always a risk of fuel dilution in sport application. Especially it concerns areas where reliability has priority over time performance. Cause of fuel dilution the first choice grades are 15W-50/60/40, 10W-40/50 full synthetic oils. As I understand the first figure is more important here.
If the viscosity is really critical to the varo-cam system in the Porsche Turbo engine and 10W-50 or 5W-50 grades are prohibited for this engine, then I would recommend to use Motul 300V 10W-40 in summer time and its 50/50 blend with 300V 5W-30 in winter time, or you may use 300V 5W-40 all year round. If 50 is not an issue, Total Quartz 9000 Racing 10W-50 would be OK too.
Sport teams or tuning ateliers usually do not recommed 0W-40 oils because there is always a risk of fuel dilution in sport application. Especially it concerns areas where reliability has priority over time performance. Cause of fuel dilution the first choice grades are 15W-50/60/40, 10W-40/50 full synthetic oils. As I understand the first figure is more important here.
If the viscosity is really critical to the varo-cam system in the Porsche Turbo engine and 10W-50 or 5W-50 grades are prohibited for this engine, then I would recommend to use Motul 300V 10W-40 in summer time and its 50/50 blend with 300V 5W-30 in winter time, or you may use 300V 5W-40 all year round. If 50 is not an issue, Total Quartz 9000 Racing 10W-50 would be OK too.
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