ATF for an Infiniti QX4, 4WD, 2000?

[ltslimjim]

Hey, guys. I'm going to be servicing a co-workers vehicle later this week and I don't have experience with ATF on Asian fleet vehicles. I was wondering what the recommended fluid is for this particular vehicle.

Is there a suitable alternative, like perhaps Amsoil etc, or a superseding OE fluid since 2000 for this app?

Also, I hadn't checked yet, but I was wondering if it had an A/T drain plug or would this require a pan drop(any filter?)?

Thanks in advance, I'm doing basic maintenance for them(oil, filters, fluid top off, brake check, greasing joints etc) and got them to spill the beans about the A/T not being caught up on service in a while. I wanted to do a fluid replacement first and then change the filter out later(or 'again' if it has one) as the attempts to get optimal shifting even in summer heat or cold winter back.

 

[Towncivilian]

Maxlife works perfectly in my Pathfinder (identical to QX4). Amsoil, M1, etc are good choices I imagine too.

The QX4 has a drain plug, 19mm. The filter inside is a screen-type filter, not absolutely necessary to replace, but obviously do if you will do a pan drop. I used a Beck/Arnley filter/gasket kit ordered from RockAuto for my Pathfinder and have had no issues. Torque spec for pan and filter bolts is 61-78 inch pounds, drain plug 22 - 28 foot pounds. You should use a new crush washer for the drain plug.

Your drain & fill capacity will be about 4 quarts if I recall correctly.

If it's a 4WD, you have 2 grease zerks - one on front driveshaft, one on main driveshaft. You may need to move the car several feet for the main driveshaft one to be pointing down. If 2WD, one on main driveshaft only. Recommended driveshaft grease is NLGI No. 2 (Molybdenum disulphide lithium soap base).

Download FSM here.

 

[Trav]

From memory a couple of years ago, i will look at the book tomorrow.
It has a drain plug and a filter in the pan.
Infiniti recommends the line off exchange in their factory manuals by pulling the rubber line on the radiator.
Drain, pull the pan, change filter and fill. Remove the hose and pump about 3qts out, fill and repeat til new fluid comes out.

Amsoil ATF works great in these units, no issues whatsoever in the infinities i used it in.

 

[Towncivilian]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Infiniti recommends the line off exchange in their factory manuals by pulling the rubber line on the radiator.
Drain, pull the pan, change filter and fill. Remove the hose and pump about 3qts out, fill and repeat til new fluid comes out.

Huh? FSM for the QX4 mentions nothing in maintenance or A/T sections about a cooler line exchange using this method. The only fluid exchange method suggested is via the drain plug. Of course, it is still a viable and efficient method.

 

[Trav]

I said..
Quote:
factory manuals


Not sure what year they started recommending this in their manuals but this is Nissan/Infiniti's preferred method in general and will certainly work well on this unit.
I saw an addendum and TSB at some point, i will see if i can find it.

 

[ltslimjim]

^It may be for the 2001 and later models? I believe after 2000(2001 and up) the model was the newer generation.

 

[Towncivilian]

2001 is the changeover to using VQ35DE engines. 1999.5 was the "facelift". My 2001.5 factory service manual also says nothing about a cooler line exchange.

I found a TSB about oil cooler cleaning, but nothing about doing a cooler line fluid exchange. Also found "REVISED MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES" TSB which also says nothing about ATF.

2007 Altima FSM says cooler line exchange method. But I am positive that no R50 FSM will say anything about a cooler line exchange.

 

[Trav]

This is from an 02 or 03 infiniti unit. There is bullitin about the procedure in general being valid for previous years.

 

[ltslimjim]

Either way, this A/T will appreciate new fluid I'm sure. I think I'll start with a fluid change and then work up towards a filter change/another fluid replacement down the road in 1-2 years(max) afterward. The car has over 150,000 miles now(at least), and it 'may' have never been serviced, the transmission.

EDIT: What is the purpose of that "Level gauge bolt"? How will I use it in regards to determining refill total(is it for making sure correct level is reached)???

 

[Trav]

It holds the dipstick in nothing more. I'm not sure if the 2000 uses one or just a normal stick with a pull ring.

That picture is just an example i believe Nissan D or DexIII is the recommended fluid for the 2000. Amsoil ATF is good.

 

[ltslimjim]

Alright, I 'may' do a drain/fill with an OE equivalent or better and THEN switch her car over to Amsoil ATF after a run for 15,000 or 1 year(whatever comes first). At that point I'll pull the filter, etc; then fill with Amsoil. Any ideas on 'expected' range for service intervals post Amsoil? Thanks, Trav.



OT:

Ironically, the reason she started using me was because of lack of trust in regards to other folks, she claimed she didn't believe the other shop was using the synthetic oil she brought them. That it would look 'too dark' in a short period of time, I didn't necessarily rake her over the coals about why that was wrong, but said if she didn't trust them I'd be glad to do the work for a modest penny instead. Of course, leaving the major maintenance items alone(not a shop, just out of my garage etc).

Since then, I've gotten 3 other co-workers to get me to work on their vehicles. Nice way to get a variety of cars thrown at me on bended knees pleading for help so I can learn and get experience on the go.

 

[ltslimjim]

So, I'm going to be using the MaxLife Dexron ATF Valvoline offering. I'm going to run it out to 1 year or 15,000 miles; w/e comes first...and then to an entire fluid transfer via the return cooler line after dropping & cleaning the pan/changing the filter, while switching over to Amsoil's ATF at that point.

 

[Trav]

Sounds good, MaxLife is good stuff.

 

[Towncivilian]

Sounds good to me as well. How about adding a Magnefine in-line filter? The return line is the one on the passenger side if you choose to do so.

 

[ltslimjim]

Ah, interesting. It depends on if we can determine if the filter in the pan was replaced at the 100,000 mile tune-up. I've got the owner looking through paperwork now to verify, if not I'm doing a pan drop/filter change and another top-off with MaxLife Dex within 6 months or two oil changes. I don't think it's worth it risking not knowing how the filter is, if it can't be verified it it was replaced back at 100,000. Now with 150k+ on the odometer, we'll see how things go.

Immediately shifting improved some, the owner says. I told her to drive it 'easy' for the first tank of gas at least, not using WOT for a while anyway just to feel how the A/T and computer adjust.

The old fluid was 'normal' pink colored on the diptstick, surprisingly. If that is the case, I'd imagine even if they didn't remove the filter/pan...they may have gotten all fluid evacuated via the return line with it looking so nice 50,000 after initial service the original fluid.

Drain plug dropped about 3.5 Qts, by the way. I only refilled with 3.5 Qts out of a gallon of the MaxLife Dex sold at one AutoZone that's a few stores away(the nearest ones only sold quarts, so that saved at least $5-$6 for the value).

If it likes MaxLife for a while, I may stick with it, but part of me wants to get Amsoil ATF in there at the next major servicing with complete(most) fluid replacement.

In the other area, the engine oil will have a UOA done after 5k miles from now to see how her 5,000 OCIs on Mobil1 are holding up/engine conditions.

 

[Towncivilian]

As I said, the filter (Nissan calls it a strainer) inside is just a mesh screen and does not have any fine filtering capabilities. I'm wondering if it catches anything at all. At the very least, acquire some more magnets and place them in the pan if you do a pan drop.

You are correct - 3.5 quarts is approximately the correct drain & fill amount... I guess I remembered incorrectly. Thanks, I'll try to remember the correct amount.

I've never used Amsoil anything so I can't comment on whether Amsoil ATF in this trans would make a significant difference. Too rich for my blood, IMO. 10 quarts of Amsoil ATF is $115, not including shipping. The trans capacity is 9qt.

I'm interested to see your UOAs.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Ok, thanks for clarifying that one. A strainer would make more sense and a pan drop doesn't 'appear' necessary unless; especially if I do install an in-line filter on the return line in the trans cooling system. I notice one of the lines out the 'front most'(front of vehicle) side of the pan and another line that went to the back(rear of car) of the pan and it appeared to be mounted higher up. Can't recall which line was more on the passenger side(I suppose you mean the line out at the radiator itself).

Among other things, I suspect her differential(4 wheel drive) with limited-slip diff; as well as the transfer case fluid etc has not been serviced(unless I confirm what the 100k tune-up included). Any recommendations for that? MaxLife ATF just fine as well for the transfer case? Any special gear oil for the differentials?

Lastly, where is the PCV valve on this 3.3L? It appears to be a 'thread-in' valve but I don't know if it's hidden from view or not.

Thanks again.

EDIT: Found the PCV valve location. Thanks!

http://forums.nicoclub.com/pvc-valve-for-the-3-3l-in-2000-qx4-t435229.html

 

[Towncivilian]

Use MaxLife for the transfer case, too. You can technically use gear oil, but just in case a leak springs somewhere it's better to not allow cross-contamination of these fluids. Glance at this excerpt of a TSB for knowing which cooler line is which:



And as I said, your cooler inlet should be driver's side and cooler return line (to trans) should be passenger side, as it is on my Pathfinder.

Nothing special for the diffs - I'd just go with M1 75W-90 (80W-90 is preferred per the FSM, but I see no reason not to run a syn). 5qt of it at AAP is $35 w/ coupon A123. Front diff takes about 2qt, rear diff takes about 3qt. Don't forget to grease the driveshafts too, I listed the spec'd grease in my first reply to your thread.

You may have difficulty removing the differential plugs and may need to apply heat if penetrating oil doesn't help. Try a 1/2" drive breaker bar with no socket to loosen them. In my case, PB Blaster and a breaker bar started damaging the plug, so I bought new plugs and had the dealer do the change with supplied plugs and fluid for only $25 ($30 after tax/fees). I don't know about the transfer case, I have a 2WD.

See here on PCV valve replacement. Significantly better a location than my VQ35 which requires me to take off the lower intake manifold to get to it... definitely use an OEM part.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Kudos for the pics, I'm bookmarking the threads now.

...oh and...yikes on the PCV valve location for the 35!!!

 

[Towncivilian]

You're quite welcome.

And yeah, the unfortunate location of the valve is why it's not been changed yet at 130k miles. Though apparently it's not an issue as I've never read of anybody having issues with the PCV valve on a 3.5 R50, and some service advisers claim they've never seen one needed to be replaced... but since on the 3.3 it's so easy to change out, definitely go for it!

Another thing of concern, depending on your location. There is a recent recall issued in May that pertains to corrosion around the driver's side strut area causing potential loss of steering if the corrosion is bad enough. See the full recall PDF here. There is another older recall pertaining to the fuel filler tube as well, which may or may not have been done yet depending on how often this vehicle got serviced at a dealer. Perhaps you should take it down to a dealer at some point and check for recalls, and have the inspection done for the recent recall.