Alternator failed

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My Mercury is now really starting to get on my nerves. I've only just got a new job, finances aren't exactly what one would consider great and it has found the perfect time to start costing me money. My blower motor died last week, and after paying $100 for a new motor and a plug connector, now it looks like I have a charging issue.

Drove home this evening, and everything was normal. I parked the car, got out and noticed my left rear tire was parked over the garden hose. So I start her up to back up a little and noticed the battery light was on. The voltmeter "idiot gauge" also read lower than its supposed to - it's right where it sits during an ignition on/engine off condition. Thinking there could be something wrong, I killed the ignition and started the car up again. Same thing.

The alternator is question is a remanufactured Motorcraft 6G 130 amp unit, installed on June 28 last year at 139,425 miles (a month after I bought the car). The alternator before this one was whining, which was why it was replaced. Fast forward to today, 21,574 miles later, and the battery light has come on.

The unit showed no signs that it was going to fail. I check my alternator once a month with a voltmeter, and it has always read between 13.8-14 volts. The lowest it's ever read was 13.7 volts with pretty much all the accessories on - lights, rear defroster, air conditioning, radio and wipers. I even get my battery load tested every 6 months to make sure I'm not stranded in this jungle heat.

I haven't checked the alternator yet, and considering it's 115 F outside at 22:30, I'm not tempted to either...at least until tomorrow morning. A brand new unit is tempting, but the finances won't allow it at this very moment. So I'm going to have to go with another remanufactured Motorcraft for the time being.

What I'm confused about is why this alternator has failed so early. Called a colleague at work, who is a a tech, and he says the remanufactured units only last about a year "because of the heat". He told me the cut out feature is what always fails, and it happens suddenly. So is this a ritual, changing alternators out each year? What am I supposed to do, keep a spare alternator in the trunk?
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Try a different brand of alt. if you can.The Motorcraft may not be the best to get.While it may say Motorcraft it could be rebuilt cheaper than others.
 
Originally Posted By: motorguy222
Try a different brand of alt. if you can.The Motorcraft may not be the best to get.While it may say Motorcraft it could be rebuilt cheaper than others.


The only other brand I have seen available is Unipoint, which is sourced from Taiwan. Not sure how safe that option would be, but I would rather a remanufactured unit sourced from the US to be honest.

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
What is the warranty on MC parts there?


Electrical parts do not carry a warranty, unless they are installed by the dealership techs. Even then, it's no more than a year tops, but I'm not sure what they will offer for the alternator (will have to check with my manager).

As far as batteries go, it's one year for a Motorcraft Tested Tough Plus, and 3 years for a Tested Tough Max. Unlike the US, there's no core charge or anything like that past the 3 year mark.

Going to get the alternator installed at work this time, purely for the warranty, even though I installed it myself before. Do you happen to know if there is another alternative to GLV-8407-RM by any chance?
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You have a load test done on your battery?
Also any extra accessories you have added or the previous owner.

I would first take it to a battery place and have them do a load test. A bad battery can kill an alternator.

You guys have a such a place as a wrecking yard?

Ken
 
Originally Posted By: Ken42
You have a load test done on your battery?
Also any extra accessories you have added or the previous owner.

I would first take it to a battery place and have them do a load test. A bad battery can kill an alternator.

You guys have a such a place as a wrecking yard?

Ken


The battery is a Deka Silver Maintenance Free 6AG65MF, installed in August 2010, approximately 18,320 miles ago. I had a load test done in February and then again in May. There were no problems at any time, although I will definitely get another test done on it.

There are no accessories added to the vehicle, and although wrecking yards are available, it's really a hit or a miss. The yards are about a 50 minute drive away, and only give you a 3 day warranty on an alternator at most. If it fails after that, it's your problem. I've dealt with them before, and junkyard alternators only tend to last a couple of months. Also, a junkyard alternator in this case costs the same as a remanufactured Motorcraft (about $164).
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---> Deka Silver Maintenance Free 6AG65MF excellent battery!

I am not sure about this.. but check and see if you have the alternator sense fuse. I believe it's 7.5A ?
I know some Ford's have it, not sure about yours.
I went through 7 alternators, all varying brands with a guy and it turned out to be that fuse on his mustang.

the Motorcraft alternator's IMHO are far better than any aftermarket rebuilt model
 
Originally Posted By: EricF
---> Deka Silver Maintenance Free 6AG65MF excellent battery!

I am not sure about this.. but check and see if you have the alternator sense fuse. I believe it's 7.5A ?
I know some Ford's have it, not sure about yours.
I went through 7 alternators, all varying brands with a guy and it turned out to be that fuse on his mustang.

the Motorcraft alternator's IMHO are far better than any aftermarket rebuilt model


Thanks for the info!
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Is this fuse located in the engine compartment fuse box? What is it labelled as on the schematic that's on the back of the fuse box lid? If my car has one, then I will replace it alongside the alternator.

I like Deka batteries, and also have a Deka 524MF installed on my Montero. I used to go with Johnson Controls batteries, such as the Motorcraft Tested Tough Plus, but they all seem to have removable vent caps that end up leaking acid after about 4-5 months. I think this is more to do with the weather conditions and excessive heat more than the battery itself, but the Deka batteries are sealed and do not have this problem.
 
Look to see if there is a power junction block under hood somewhere. Follow the main power wire from the alternator and if it has one, you'll find it attached. It'll have a 100 amp or bigger fuse (probably an open element type on the side) and a few other smaller ones under the cover. Your sense fuse would be there.

Now mind you, this is only speaking from experience on the Taurus/Sable - of course a GM will be different, but maybe it'll get you going.
 
Is there anyone around that does ambulance conversions? I ask because in the States you can get new ford alternators with like ten miles on them, that get pulled from cab & chassis vehicles when they're turned into service vehicles and fitted with high output ones.

They're on ebay of course.

I had alt issues with my 97 GM and finding parts due to Ford's bizzarre (to me) part numbering system. I first was given something with the wrong field plug, then accepted one with holes instead of mounting slots, the right plug, and different part number.

It could be worse: It could be any other car. What's the job take, ten minutes?
 
In the US that alternator would have a 12mo 12,000 mile warranty. Labor would be covered if installed at a FLM dealer. If sold OTC it would be replaced on an exchange basis. It is hard to prove prior mileage if the customer installs the part themselves. Of course if there is no original receipt present there is no warranty.
 
Thanks for all the input. I'm not sure what this problem was/is, but this morning it was as if nothing had happened. I checked my battery before cranking the engine, and it read 12.62V. I started the car, and with all accessories off, the alternator's output was 14.5V. I turned on the air conditioning, lights, defroster and turn signals, the output dropped to 14.1V.

Drove to work, checked the alternator output before killing the ignition, and it was 14V. Checked the battery, and it read 12.83V.

I had the techs at work take a look at it anyway, and they just got back saying the alternator is "functioning perfectly". They said what happened last night may have been a "glitch", but this still doesn't make sense.

As strange as it sounds, I use a blower to blow out dust and sand from inside my alternator once a week. Every couple of months, I remove the alternator and blow it out with an air gun as well. Not sure if the dust would have any affect on its functionality, but I try and keep the internals clean.

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Look to see if there is a power junction block under hood somewhere. Follow the main power wire from the alternator and if it has one, you'll find it attached. It'll have a 100 amp or bigger fuse (probably an open element type on the side) and a few other smaller ones under the cover. Your sense fuse would be there.

Now mind you, this is only speaking from experience on the Taurus/Sable - of course a GM will be different, but maybe it'll get you going.


Thanks! It seems this vehicle isn't equipped with one, but I couldn't take a good look at it this morning. I'll take a look in the afternoon to confirm.

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Is there anyone around that does ambulance conversions? I ask because in the States you can get new ford alternators with like ten miles on them, that get pulled from cab & chassis vehicles when they're turned into service vehicles and fitted with high output ones.

They're on ebay of course.

I had alt issues with my 97 GM and finding parts due to Ford's bizzarre (to me) part numbering system. I first was given something with the wrong field plug, then accepted one with holes instead of mounting slots, the right plug, and different part number.

It could be worse: It could be any other car. What's the job take, ten minutes?


That's actually quite a brilliant idea. The majority of ambulances are imported from the States already converted, but there's one place that carries out the job locally. I'll see if anyone I know at work has any contacts there and find out what they do with the "old" alternators.

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
In the US that alternator would have a 12mo 12,000 mile warranty. Labor would be covered if installed at a FLM dealer. If sold OTC it would be replaced on an exchange basis. It is hard to prove prior mileage if the customer installs the part themselves. Of course if there is no original receipt present there is no warranty.


If the alternator is installed by dealership techs, then it carries a 1 year/20,000 km warranty, which works out to be the same. Labor is also accounted for, but the car will need to be booked in.

That said, we do not operate a core exchange program, despite it being mentioned on the box. You simply buy a new alternator and walk out, without being obliged to return the old one. The remanufactured alternators are sold for approximately $164.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/alternator/wiring/diagrams/index.html
Looks like you can check pin 1 and 3 for voltage if it happens again.
Pin 1 should be hot in start or run and pin 3 should be hot all the time.


Thanks Colt! 2VModular's site has been down, and I was unable to retrieve any of that information. Some people have downloaded the whole website, something like 6.3 GB, and it's supposed to be up on CVN soon, but I'm not sure how soon is soon.
 
you know... about a year ago, i was driving the buick, and the ALT/BATTERY light came on, car started jerking BADLY shortly after, lights dimmed when hitting brakes.... drove it this way for miles with this light.. Turned the car off at work, and said ill deal with it after my shift, shift over, came out, start car and the light is gone.. That was over 40K miles ago.. Knock on wood...

Maybe glitches do happen? I was going to replace it... But it never gave me problems again.....
 
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