Can CV joint related problems affect MPG?

[ltslimjim]

So, the Civic has had it's outer CV joints at each wheel making some noise now for 2-3 months.

The shop I had replace the original CVs 16 months ago now, claims that it's not noisy enough to get the part(a reman) warrantied/replaced by the manufacturer and wants me to drive it longer(until its out of warranty apparently? lol). The symptoms of driving the car are starting to annoy me though, along with a drop in fuel efficiency(40+MPG easily down to 35-36).

It almost feels like a drag on the engine, like driving with a partially applied park brake/or slight brake pad drag of some sort. The car seems to be lugged/sluggish upon acceleration and engine braking while in gear is excessive compared to when the CVs functioned properly, the rolling distance has been shortened and requires throttle sooner/more of it upon acceleration from coasting.

My question is would it affect MPG considerably? I figure it would some, as the MPG seems to be around what the car was getting prior to the original CVs being replaced.

I realize that A/C usage will give similar performance related drops(fuel economy, overall performance stop 'n go etc), but this feels like overkill compared to just running the A/C.

Along with that, is there any reman part manufacturers that are more reputable than others?

I can get an EMPI, A1/Select Cardone, and AUP; among others.

 

[Lead Shoes]

A bad cv joint is defiantly causing drag on the engine, which is costing you that few MPG, I would just buy new ones, not reman'd ones, sometimes you win sometimes you don't and the price difference is maybe 25 bucks from reman to new.

 

[Jakegday]

absolutely

 

[NJC]

You could probably feel the drag in the axle by jacking up one side (car in neutral; blocked on jack stands) and turn the wheel. Rockauto has a pair of new Cardone and AUP shafts for $84 ad $128 respectively - plus shipping.

 

[Lead Shoes]

Go to your local auto parts store, they don't charge shipping

and you will get it much faster

 

[JHZR2]

Definitely.

 

[Oregoonian]

Originally Posted By: Brenden
Go to your local auto parts store, they don't charge shipping

and you will get it much faster

I'm sure the shipping is built into the price.....

 

[IndyIan]

If you're getting that much drag, something must be getting pretty hot! And probably the only items that can take that much energy for miles and miles are your brakes. After your next drive feel how hot everything is, maybe you'll find a hot rear wheel.

 

[Eddie]

I don't think that a bad CVJ is causing the mileage drop. I think something else is causing it.

 

[fdcg27]

First, I wonder what the shop replaced the originals with?
Junkyard axles?
I ask this because even low-end replacement axles don't wear out in a few months.
Also, unless the boots split, the joints generally don't wear out at all.
Did they maybe just grease the outer joints, replace the boots, and call it good?
The axles are not all that hard to R&R, and you can use one of the AAP discount codes to get a killer price.
I would consider just buying new axle assemblies from AAP and doing it myself.
Finally, I don't think noisy CV joints would cause a drop in fuel economy.
It's either normal based upon AC use, or you have a dragging brake.
I second the poster above that you should check for a hot wheel after a drive.
If you have a stuck caliper or shoe, the difference will be unmistakable.

 

[Jim Spahr]

Other than the CV joints, what have you done /or have had done/ to the car in that 16 months? Anything that would have caused a reduction in MPG? Any CEL/MIL on? Have you checked the obvious items such as tires, air filter, etc? BTW what was the warrenty with the CV's? If everything looks good and no changes other than the CV's , I would go back to the original repair shop and request a new set installed. Perhaps offer to pay the diff. for a new vs. a reman. set of CV's.

 

[rpn453]

Originally Posted By: IndyIan
If you're getting that much drag, something must be getting pretty hot! And probably the only items that can take that much energy for miles and miles are your brakes. After your next drive feel how hot everything is, maybe you'll find a hot rear wheel.


Yep, it would have to be at least a couple thousand watts going into those things at higher speeds. Definitely have a feel to see if they're hot.

 

[ltslimjim]

Alright, lots of good advice here. How would I tell if one wheel is hotter than the others during the summer? Drive it at night instead? I've been driving all day today and went by another shop for price quote.

Could a wheel bearing be going? I haven't heard sounds for that per se, but was an aspect I considered as well. Also, the noise is from the front of the vehicle so I figure a brake drag would be from the front and not the rear, though I suppose it's worth a check anyway.

For clarity, the shop I had replace the current CVs last spring used a reman unit which came pre-assembled. They aren't willing to work with me and this is my only vehicle, so I found another shop that I trust to do the job. The original shop says they won't even re-boot them because 'if' they can warranty through the supplier back to the manufacturer(they did not give me the name), it can't be 'tampered' with in any way even for an inspection of the joint.

Anyway, I can't wait for this('much' noisier axles) and most reman units only have 1 year/12,000 miles(some are better though)...I'm not sure how the original shop is getting any longer than that(since I'm past the time/mileage) and I figured I was out of warranty on the parts, but the shop claimed I would only have to re-pay labor for the job that they performed(their warranty 1 year/12k) but it would be possible to warranty the parts through the reman company etc. Long-story.

I can pay the trusted shop(people I know) $300 instead, for brand new CVs and they get all/most of their parts through NAPA, so that is for both total as an "out the door" parts and labor price. I will be doing that, since these CVs are an issue, but will inspect for brake drag. The issue on top of that is someone stole our family 2 1/2 ton jack(an older but reliable Torrin)...and all I have right now is a bottle jack system for emergencies that wouldn't work for the clearance I need to do this at home. So, instead of investing in a new jack right now we'll pay the labor(2 hours) and get new parts for the price that I would be getting reman units.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[ltslimjim]

A post about maintenance performed within this time frame since the CVs were replaced:

Battery is 'marginal'(?), not yet replaced(headlights were kept on twice, once for nearly 3 hours a couple of months ago dont ask!!! lol). Not sure, but the alternator could be at full capacity all of the time(alternator is fine though).

Timing belt/water pump and the seals were replaced last year, along with drive belts.

Front brake pads were replaced last summer(rotors machined) and the rear brake shoes last spring with the existing drums machined(the 'new' rear brake shoes were lousy and I do want to replace them actually). I have on standby replacement drums and shoes for the rear.

Bled the brakes(in order at each wheel) and the clutch for a chance to 'top off' the fluid levels respectively, a few months ago now.

Tie rods(inner/outer) + boots were replaced recently, this included an alignment and tire rotation. Front/rear are different pairs of tires. The tires that are on the front now weigh slightly more than the ones currently on the rear as they appear to be a bigger tire though the 'size' is the same. Go figure?

Replaced 02 sensor which had been causing a CEL last summer.

Replaced spark plugs(OE), used anti-seize, 2 months ago(plug wires were replaced with new Sumitomo OE last January).

IACV cleaned, EGR + passages cleaned, PCV valve replaced etc.



Can't recall anything else currently, though someone recently told me the CV noise I thought I heard(prior to inspection by myself and original shop) was rod knock.

 

[ltslimjim]

Replacing the CVs this Monday with new parts from NAPA, and it's been so hot I haven't even gave a 2nd thought to checking for brake drag. So, the guys will check for that while it's up on the lift.

One question related to this repair/replacement: Will MTF or engine oil be lost once the old axle is pulled out from the tranny side or engine side?

I'm performing an extended OCI currently and would like to know. If they need to top-up the fluid I've asked them to use some SSO 0w-30 I have for the engine oil, but I don't have any extra Amsoil Synchromesh MTF so I suppose I could use the SSO for that as well if enough fluid leaks out?

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim

One question related to this repair/replacement: Will MTF or engine oil be lost once the old axle is pulled out from the tranny side or engine side?


MTF or ATF, yes, engine oil? No.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Thank you.