Should i be worried?

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Hi all, just found your site a few weeks again and im looking for some advice on my first report. It is for a 2005 f350, we just got last year. has about 98000 on it now and if i recall there was a short block put in at about 76000. The report is showing hi aluminum and fuel. We dont tow alot and i dont beat on it much (in fact i may be babying it too much, i let it idle a good bit to cool down even when im not towing). Only other thing i can think to mention is i had just installed a nuc bypass the day before the sample was taken.

thanks for your time

 
That's not a lot of aluminum. That whole report looks dandy aside from the fuel - did you drain the oil cold?

BTW, what oil is that?
 
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What Motor, I'm assuming a 6.0PSD. If it is, THAT A FINE REPORT. install a coolant filter, egr bypass, oil relocation kit ASAP..
 
My first question would be how much idle time? Just enough to cool the EGT's below 400 degrees? What flashes have you had done on the truck?

Unless pulling weight turbo cooldown should take no more then a minute.

Bad injector or injectors usually indicate by more dilution then what your showing. This is not within Ford specs for fuel dilution issues. 2-3% is pretty common with 6leakers. At my shop we get concerned at 4+ depending on usuage. I would not be concered at what your seeing
 
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to BITOG!

I wouldn't worry about the aluminium. Wear metals numbers on one-off Blackstone UOAs don't mean much. Run several times with the same oil and OCI to get a baseline, and then there might be something worth talking about.

On this report, the only thing that catches my eye is the fuel. Do what you can to keep it in check, use a good oil, and keep your oil change intervals relatively conservative.
 
probably just a fluke in the report. Short trips and extensive idling can cause fuel dilution. I don't think it will cause much fuel dilution to matter just as long as it is warmed up when it is idling. Also there is no need to idle it to warm it up if you are doing that. Just start it let it run for 10 seconds to get all the oil circulating then gently drive off.
 
wow short block put in at 76000 miles those ford vans log over 300,000 miles without an engine problem in most cases..What happened to the original motor?
 
Hi All, thanks for looking. I guess i should have put a bit more info on the post.

truck is 6.0psd
oil is amsoil 15w40 (always changed at 5000 miles)
it is my daily driver (about 20 mins to work one way), but we do tow a travel trailer (about twice a month 10,000 lbs, not ussually farther than one hour from home)

now to answer the questions:

JRed - no i didnt drain it cold, sample was taken from nuc's tap after about 15min trip

Chubbs1 - it is AMS 15W40, im thinking of changing to Rottella though. Idling time have probably been high, but i just installed an EGT so i will be able to shut it off @400 now

DrDusty86 - Coolant filter is alread install, egr and oil fixes will have to wait for a while though ($$$ issue)

SMokeFan1977 - I'm sure i was idleing too much (didnt want to cook the turbo) but now that the EGT is in, ive been shutting it off once it hits 400 (been in for about 2 weeks). I dont run any sort of tunes on the truck (no headstuds, yet...)


d00df00d - thank you, while the OCI will not change, the oil will have to. I'll be doing alot of research before we switch to see what everyone recomends, but do recent events i can not afford to put in AMSOIL right now. On a few other forums rotella 5w40 seems to be a popular choice.

motor_oil_madman - ussually i do just that (the exception being an extremely cold winter morning, but the oil was changed in the spring) as soon as oil pressure im off.

crazyoildude - i wish i knew, we had a friend (who used to work as a ford mechanic) look at the truck before we got it. He really didnt find anything wrong. the short block was put in under warrenty and if i recall one of the bores was out of round. So he suggested that the block was a factory defect since everything else looked to be in perfect condition (via the oasis, him inspecting it and talk to the dealer that had done the work).


hope that covers everything. As i said we will be changing the oil type, but we intend to keep up with the blackstone reports at least once a year.

thanks again for your time
 
Rotella T6 5w-40 should be a great option for you. Here's hoping for a positive outcome.
 
please exscuse my ingnorance, but what is "T6" is. Is this something i need to look for specifically? will there be a T5 vs T6?
thanks
 
DFortier,

Buy flashing I mean Dealer induced upgrade flashes such as the inductive heating flash ECT. Has the program in this truck been updated?

I agree no need to run amsoil. The 6.0 should not have extended drain intervals, but I to would run a syn such as T6. You just dont need a expensive product like you have been purchasing
 
Ahh, to be honest i have no idea. Is the flash version something i can check with AutoEnginuity?

I will definitly be running a full synthetic and the rottella is at the top of the list right not for options. I have always done 5000 OCI even though accord to the book i can do 7500.

thanks
 
AE cannot detect what flash is in the truck. A Ford IDS is needed to do that. If the truck has any current flashes other then factory there will be a sticker located on the hood.

If not make an appointment at the dealer and have the latest flash installed. You will be glad you did. Price is 1 hour labor. The Inductive heating/FICM flash is very important for the injectors
 
Newest report, below. Switched to rotella 5w 40, NUC bypass has been installed since the last oil change, egt gauge helps with idle times.

Question i have now is, is the bypass filter hiding an issue?



Thanks in advance
 
Overall, not a bad report; nothing to be alarmed at. At least the fuel came down!

Please allow me to suggest that you quit wasting money on such expensive oils, if you OCI plan is 5k miles as you stated on page 1. Any brand of conventional oil can do 5k miles in a PSD. I would not hesitate to run an inexpensive oil such as ST 15w-40 for that duration.

Some people will bring up concerns about a 40 grade shearing in a PSD, however I've not seen any evidence that (while the oil will shear down) it ever manifests into a wear issue. Typically they will shear down to a 30 grade. Or, you can simply use a 30 grade to start with, and it won't shear much, if any, at all. There are many UOAs here to illustrate these points.

***************

The question about the bypass filter is a bit complex. I have my opinion; one that I developed while interacting with Gary Allan.

Normal wear particles are sized from sub-um to 15um in size. Also, the smaller the particle, the more predominant the particle in quantity. The typical UOA ppm counts for wear metals will be 1-25ppm depending upon engine, exposure, etc.

Your bypass filter is going to successfully remove particles above 2-3um with great effiency, and even smaller than that much of the time.

A UOA (spectral analysis) can see sub-um particles up to around 5um in size with reasonable clarity. (Plus, as I've recently learned, a UOA won't see all those particles, even in that visible range).

In essence, if you use a bypass filter, I see the topic breaking down like this (note - these are generalizations that will change a bit due to differences in BP filter performance brand to brand, lab testing, etc):
sub-um particles; very visible in UOA because the BP filter cannot get many of them at all
1-2um; seen reasonably well in a UOA because the BP filter is only getting a portion of them cleaned out of the flow stream
3-5um; BP filter is getting darn near all of them out of the flow stream therefore they will not be seen in the UOA
above 5um; the UOA cannot detect with any reasonable accuracy

The bypass filter removes particles above 1um, and the UOA can only view a portion of the particles with a reasonable upper limit of 5um. Therefore, the bypass filter has the ability to remove evidence of wear! That is not an issue when only utilizing a full flow filter as they do not filter down that small, so all the evidence stays in the oil. If you sample the sump only, and don't get a particle count out of the filter(s), you really don't know if the bypass filter is reducing wear, or just hiding wear ...

The advantage to BP filters is that they keep the oil cleaner for a much longer period of time. The downside to them is that, if you don't also analyze the filter contents, they are hiding wear from the UOA. You get a false sense of great wear because you're only seeing part of the evidence.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Overall, not a bad report; nothing to be alarmed at. At least the fuel came down!

Please allow me to suggest that you quit wasting money on such expensive oils, if you OCI plan is 5k miles as you stated on page 1. Any brand of conventional oil can do 5k miles in a PSD. I would not hesitate to run an inexpensive oil such as ST 15w-40 for that duration.

Some people will bring up concerns about a 40 grade shearing in a PSD, however I've not seen any evidence that (while the oil will shear down) it ever manifests into a wear issue. Typically they will shear down to a 30 grade. Or, you can simply use a 30 grade to start with, and it won't shear much, if any, at all. There are many UOAs here to illustrate these points.

***************

The question about the bypass filter is a bit complex. I have my opinion; one that I developed while interacting with Gary Allan.

Normal wear particles are sized from sub-um to 15um in size. Also, the smaller the particle, the more predominant the particle in quantity. The typical UOA ppm counts for wear metals will be 1-25ppm depending upon engine, exposure, etc.

Your bypass filter is going to successfully remove particles above 2-3um with great effiency, and even smaller than that much of the time.

A UOA (spectral analysis) can see sub-um particles up to around 5um in size with reasonable clarity. (Plus, as I've recently learned, a UOA won't see all those particles, even in that visible range).

In essence, if you use a bypass filter, I see the topic breaking down like this (note - these are generalizations that will change a bit due to differences in BP filter performance brand to brand, lab testing, etc):
sub-um particles; very visible in UOA because the BP filter cannot get many of them at all
1-2um; seen reasonably well in a UOA because the BP filter is only getting a portion of them cleaned out of the flow stream
3-5um; BP filter is getting darn near all of them out of the flow stream therefore they will not be seen in the UOA
above 5um; the UOA cannot detect with any reasonable accuracy

The bypass filter removes particles above 1um, and the UOA can only view a portion of the particles with a reasonable upper limit of 5um. Therefore, the bypass filter has the ability to remove evidence of wear! That is not an issue when only utilizing a full flow filter as they do not filter down that small, so all the evidence stays in the oil. If you sample the sump only, and don't get a particle count out of the filter(s), you really don't know if the bypass filter is reducing wear, or just hiding wear ...

The advantage to BP filters is that they keep the oil cleaner for a much longer period of time. The downside to them is that, if you don't also analyze the filter contents, they are hiding wear from the UOA. You get a false sense of great wear because you're only seeing part of the evidence.


I have to agree with DNewton in regards to oil choice. I have been a 6.0 owner since the '04 model year and a couple of years ago I finially seen the light and switched to 10w-30(Deere Plus 50), 12 months a year. While I agree the shearing of viscosity doesn't seem to be related to engine wear, it bothered me that I was buying an expensive 5w-40 and after three consectitive runs of 7,500 mi. it sheared to a mid-low 30 wt., wear metals increased slightly vs. the previous 15w-40(Deere Plus 50) I had been using. While the 10w-30 does shear, I have not had a report come back where it had sheared as low as the 5w-40 did, and wear metals are back down to where they were before my 5w-40 "experiment". I have several UOA's posted here showing that 10w-30 has worked very well in my driving conditions. I keep reading everyone suggesting "synthetic oil is a must in a 6.0", quite honestly I have around 300,000 mi. combined in two 6.0's with never an injector problem or any other oil related problem. All of those miles were with Plus 50, other than the three 5w-40 runs, I don't know if its that much better than other brands or not, but I have certainly had good results with it.

As for your bypass filtration I don't know enough about the set-up to make an informed comment, I have had good results with the stock Racor setup. Overall a good looking report, a definite improvement over the previous one, but at such a short interval I would expect it to be excellent.
 
Thanks for the feedback, it sounds like i should look for a cheaper oil and consider using a full flow filter for an interval to see if the wear has really gone away.
 
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