If the seal is not functioning properly due to various oil/combustion chamber related formation resulting from many factors, it isn't sealing properly and thus allows oil to escape via the exhaust, if I'm not mistaken(getting past the ring/seals?
Need a good seal conditioner additive
- Thread starter Robenstein
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Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
If you have an older engine that's been "Sitting" the oil/fluids in it can form a varnish/sticky coating. a thinner oil could get in there and clean it up a little better than a thick one, since it flows into the corners better.
I'd suggest a solvent flush... Gunk Engine Flush before an oil change, or an add-in washer like Justice Bros. Tune Up, or perhaps Rislone or MMO. That frees the stuck parts.
Since I got it out its had two OCI's since we all know how 80's oil was known for being sludge prone. First was Delo 400 Multigrade with MMO(ran for 500 miles). The second was Pennzoil Long Life HDEO and MMO(1000 miles). Its now running Supertech HDEO with Rislone.
If you have an older engine that's been "Sitting" the oil/fluids in it can form a varnish/sticky coating. a thinner oil could get in there and clean it up a little better than a thick one, since it flows into the corners better.
I'd suggest a solvent flush... Gunk Engine Flush before an oil change, or an add-in washer like Justice Bros. Tune Up, or perhaps Rislone or MMO. That frees the stuck parts.
Since I got it out its had two OCI's since we all know how 80's oil was known for being sludge prone. First was Delo 400 Multigrade with MMO(ran for 500 miles). The second was Pennzoil Long Life HDEO and MMO(1000 miles). Its now running Supertech HDEO with Rislone.
If you have leaky seals, MMO is one of the last things you want in it. My car has always had a leak from the rear main seal, but It had never left a drip on the ground. That is, until I put 4 quarts of 15w-40 and a quart of MMO in it. I had a very large drip spot (over a foot wide) on my parking space after that, and it has never stopped dripping since.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Im old school
And the engine doesnt have much wear....its old, but low miles.
I talked with a mechanic yesterday who has replaced valve seals on these older small block chevy engines, when I say the word OLDER, I am talking about the small block chevy engines before the LT-1 came out in 1992.
You stated that this engine has low miles, he told me that if the engine does not get much use, then the valve seals can harden up, the valve seals from the 1980's are probably not as good as the valve seals on today's cars, I believe in the early 1990's or maybe the late 1980's GM went to a VITON RUBBER SEAL, this was a much better seal.
If you are not going to drive this car much then it might be pointless in replacing the seals, since you could have the same problem come back, you could always step up to some better after market cylinder heads.
Im old school
And the engine doesnt have much wear....its old, but low miles.
I talked with a mechanic yesterday who has replaced valve seals on these older small block chevy engines, when I say the word OLDER, I am talking about the small block chevy engines before the LT-1 came out in 1992.
You stated that this engine has low miles, he told me that if the engine does not get much use, then the valve seals can harden up, the valve seals from the 1980's are probably not as good as the valve seals on today's cars, I believe in the early 1990's or maybe the late 1980's GM went to a VITON RUBBER SEAL, this was a much better seal.
If you are not going to drive this car much then it might be pointless in replacing the seals, since you could have the same problem come back, you could always step up to some better after market cylinder heads.
Hey Robenstein,
This may work. I came across this additive that the Big aftermarket parts mfg. ATP makes and it looks impressive. Not sure if its been reviewed here so do a search on BITOG Forum to see if any others have had good results.
I talked to their tech a few months ago who told me it works on seals like rear main crank seals, and not gaskets. I wonder if it will work on valve stem seals. I also asked the Tech about how much will it thin the oil and he said the additive has a half -life or something like that and will evaporate out within a short time but stays active long enough to treat the worn seal....... You should call their Tech Support for further confirmation.
Here's the product page for ATP-205 Reseal:
http://atp-inc.com/products.aspx
They have a little "ditty" endorsement video on that page from a well known WACKY
tech by the name of Scotty Kilmer @ http://www.scottykilmer.com/ who has many tech videos and tips or you can see it here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTT0sejhoOQ
There's also an Amazon link on that ATP page with good reviews on the ATP-205 Reseal..........so maybe its good stuff.
You probably won't find it at the Major Auto Parts Dealer but is sold mainly through Wholesale Parts Warehouses where local mechanics purchase parts.
Please let every here know if it works!
Regards,
Chris
p.s. I love the huge heap of left over parts in the background of all his videos!!!!!!!!!
This may work. I came across this additive that the Big aftermarket parts mfg. ATP makes and it looks impressive. Not sure if its been reviewed here so do a search on BITOG Forum to see if any others have had good results.
I talked to their tech a few months ago who told me it works on seals like rear main crank seals, and not gaskets. I wonder if it will work on valve stem seals. I also asked the Tech about how much will it thin the oil and he said the additive has a half -life or something like that and will evaporate out within a short time but stays active long enough to treat the worn seal....... You should call their Tech Support for further confirmation.
Here's the product page for ATP-205 Reseal:
http://atp-inc.com/products.aspx
They have a little "ditty" endorsement video on that page from a well known WACKY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTT0sejhoOQ
There's also an Amazon link on that ATP page with good reviews on the ATP-205 Reseal..........so maybe its good stuff.
You probably won't find it at the Major Auto Parts Dealer but is sold mainly through Wholesale Parts Warehouses where local mechanics purchase parts.
Please let every here know if it works!
Regards,
Chris
p.s. I love the huge heap of left over parts in the background of all his videos!!!!!!!!!
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Just did a Google on AT-205.....looks like its been around for a while and used with success by many:
http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1LAVF...05+oil+additive
I can't figure out why the "Search" tab on this forum never gives me any hits no matter how many different ways I do the search, but I found this old BITOG thread in 2007 when doing a Google:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1050693
http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1LAVF...05+oil+additive
I can't figure out why the "Search" tab on this forum never gives me any hits no matter how many different ways I do the search, but I found this old BITOG thread in 2007 when doing a Google:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1050693
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I'm pretty sure the AT-205 is what has slowed my rear main seal leak. It does evaporate, so my suggestion is to put it into a cold engine, then take it for a long drive to get the most out of it before it disappears.
I haven't had to add any oil in over 1,100 miles. My car normally leaks/consumes a full quart in that amount of time. At present, it appears to be down only 1/8 of a quart from my last top-up.
I haven't had to add any oil in over 1,100 miles. My car normally leaks/consumes a full quart in that amount of time. At present, it appears to be down only 1/8 of a quart from my last top-up.
I used MMO because I had to put intake gaskets on it and it was pretty sludged up in the lifter valley. Running the MMO and HDEO mix to clean the engine up.
Im not going to aftermarket anything. This is a low mileage, rare (so I am told), numbers matching, all original Monte Carlo SS.
Plus the car gets ungodly decent mileage for a carbed 305 with a 3.73 axle. Ive always knocked down 24MPG or even a little better on occassion on the highway.
Im not going to aftermarket anything. This is a low mileage, rare (so I am told), numbers matching, all original Monte Carlo SS.
Plus the car gets ungodly decent mileage for a carbed 305 with a 3.73 axle. Ive always knocked down 24MPG or even a little better on occassion on the highway.
If those seals are Viton then nothing you add to the oil is going to "soften" them, nor would you want it to because it's chemically attacking the elastomer and degrading it.
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
If you have an older engine that's been "Sitting" the oil/fluids in it can form a varnish/sticky coating. a thinner oil could get in there and clean it up a little better than a thick one, since it flows into the corners better.
I'd suggest a solvent flush... Gunk Engine Flush before an oil change, or an add-in washer like Justice Bros. Tune Up, or perhaps Rislone or MMO. That frees the stuck parts.
FWIW I NEVER suggest a solvent flush---ever--dude, you've got to get past that GUNK stuff
If you have an older engine that's been "Sitting" the oil/fluids in it can form a varnish/sticky coating. a thinner oil could get in there and clean it up a little better than a thick one, since it flows into the corners better.
I'd suggest a solvent flush... Gunk Engine Flush before an oil change, or an add-in washer like Justice Bros. Tune Up, or perhaps Rislone or MMO. That frees the stuck parts.
FWIW I NEVER suggest a solvent flush---ever--dude, you've got to get past that GUNK stuff
A fast flush can cause you to clog up an oil passage. Last thing you want. Better to use something more gentle to wash it away instead of hit it with a sledgehammer treatment.
Guys - question on the AT-205 reseal. Is there any chance this stuff can cause unanticipated problems? I either have a leak in my crankshaft seal (easy to fix) or timing cover seal (hard to fix) and wanted to give the at-205 a go.
Also, do I need to change the oil after application is complete, or does it all just evaporate out?
Also, do I need to change the oil after application is complete, or does it all just evaporate out?
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
If you have leaks, fix them. Nothing is going to stop a leak but a seal replacement.
AT-205 is getting great reviews as "reconditioning" these shot rubber seals. In my case - it will cost $1200 to fix the stupid seal - more than the car is worth. Let's see - $9 versus $1200. Hmmm.....
Gaskets - no... that's another story. I don't think the at-205 will recondition rtv.
If you have leaks, fix them. Nothing is going to stop a leak but a seal replacement.
AT-205 is getting great reviews as "reconditioning" these shot rubber seals. In my case - it will cost $1200 to fix the stupid seal - more than the car is worth. Let's see - $9 versus $1200. Hmmm.....
Gaskets - no... that's another story. I don't think the at-205 will recondition rtv.
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
If you have leaks, fix them. Nothing is going to stop a leak but a seal replacement.
Well you can tell that to my leaky TH350 ourput shaft seal that a seal conditioner stopped.
If you have leaks, fix them. Nothing is going to stop a leak but a seal replacement.
Well you can tell that to my leaky TH350 ourput shaft seal that a seal conditioner stopped.
Originally Posted By: steve20
FWIW I NEVER suggest a solvent flush---ever--dude, you've got to get past that GUNK stuff
Absolutely true, you are much more likely to do further and serious damage to an engine using that junk than just doing nothing at all! NEVER, EVER USE SOLVENTS IN AN ENGINE!
Only use a detergent based product!
FWIW I NEVER suggest a solvent flush---ever--dude, you've got to get past that GUNK stuff
Absolutely true, you are much more likely to do further and serious damage to an engine using that junk than just doing nothing at all! NEVER, EVER USE SOLVENTS IN AN ENGINE!
Only use a detergent based product!
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Well Rislone and MMO have solvents but they are gentle. But a shock dose of them is never good.
Originally Posted By: sandy_d
Originally Posted By: steve20
FWIW I NEVER suggest a solvent flush---ever--dude, you've got to get past that GUNK stuff
Absolutely true, you are much more likely to do further and serious damage to an engine using that junk than just doing nothing at all! NEVER, EVER USE SOLVENTS IN AN ENGINE!
Only use a detergent based product!
i cant speak for the gunk flush because i dont use flushes.
how much can something clean in 10 mins of run time? but i got about 20k with solvents like kreen and mmo in my 5.4 and its running better than ever.
Originally Posted By: steve20
FWIW I NEVER suggest a solvent flush---ever--dude, you've got to get past that GUNK stuff
Absolutely true, you are much more likely to do further and serious damage to an engine using that junk than just doing nothing at all! NEVER, EVER USE SOLVENTS IN AN ENGINE!
Only use a detergent based product!
i cant speak for the gunk flush because i dont use flushes.
how much can something clean in 10 mins of run time? but i got about 20k with solvents like kreen and mmo in my 5.4 and its running better than ever.
Originally Posted By: cadchris
Hey Robenstein,
This may work. I came across this additive that the Big aftermarket parts mfg. ATP makes and it looks impressive.
You probably won't find it at the Major Auto Parts Dealer but is sold mainly through Wholesale Parts Warehouses where local mechanics purchase parts.
It is sitting right on the shelf of EVERY NAPA local to me, as well as some of the non-chain local stores.
Hey Robenstein,
This may work. I came across this additive that the Big aftermarket parts mfg. ATP makes and it looks impressive.
You probably won't find it at the Major Auto Parts Dealer but is sold mainly through Wholesale Parts Warehouses where local mechanics purchase parts.
It is sitting right on the shelf of EVERY NAPA local to me, as well as some of the non-chain local stores.
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