High mileage WRX oil recommendations?

[Atticus]

Hi all I've been researching and would just like to get a backup on my opinion on what oil to use. I bought my car a little of a year ago at 120,000. I have been using M1 5W30 since I bought it with OEM oil filters and religious 3,000 mile oil changes regardless of use. I now Have 153,000 miles on the car and I will be sending a sample of the M1 to Blackstone for a UOA. After some reading and the issue of shearing along with my intended driving habits (see below) I am looking into switching to a thicker oil for better bearing protection. My eyes are set currently on some Shell Rotella T6 5W40. Please read my detailed info below and let me know if I'm going in the right direction or any other oils that I may be interested in for my use. I plan on doing several UOA's on each oil I try to see what I like the most.

1. 2003 Subaru Impreza WRX 3" turbo back exhaust Cobb Stage II tune(18psi on 93 Octane).
2. Subaru recommends API SJ 5W30. ACEA Spec A1, A2 or A3. Also API SH and SG
3. Indiana. Possible single digit winters, up to 100F summer.
4. Lots of spirited driving when the road gets twisty. 2-3 nights at the strip (4 or more runs each night) 4-5 AutoX days a year 1-2 track days.
5. Daily drive is a 70 mile around commute on highway. Weekends are about 100 miles of highway and interstate plus some city.
6. I know subarus shear oil normally so I'm looking into something good for a daily that will hold up to abuse. I am not looking into paying much more than what I have been paying for M1 (about $35) but i may buy some Motul 300v for use during Track days. I'm looking for something easy to get to use yearly for daily driving and autocross/drag use. I want to get max fun out of my car while getting the most mileage out of the engine!

Thanks in advance!

 

[hate2work]

Red Line 5W-30. Available online or just have your local parts store get it from their warehouse.

Welcome to the forum

 

[Atticus]

Does the redline cost the same? 5 quarts for under $35? Don't really want to spend +$50 on oil I don't need. I do 10 changes a year that is $500 just on oil.

 

[vintageant]

I've read elsewhere in BITOG that the Subaru turbo types use and like Rotella T6 5w-40

 

[Indydriver]

Do you have any reason to believe your current oil/OCI is problematic? If you're going to stick with 3000 miles, it seems to me that any syn should work just fine.

Welcome to BITOG from a fellow Hoosier.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: Atticus
Does the redline cost the same? 5 quarts for under $35? Don't really want to spend +$50 on oil I don't need. I do 10 changes a year that is $500 just on oil.


NO, RL costs more money. Like most things, if you want a better product, you have to pay more for it.

 

[addyguy]

Rotella T6 5W-40 is an excellent choice - it seems to work really, really well in Subie's, and it is inexpensive to boot!

 

[oggb]

Rotella T6. Great oil at a great price. Search NASIOC and you'll find that plenty of folks use it. Redline is good too, but quite a bit more expensive.

 

[Astro14]

Lots of Subie owners swear by the T6...I would go with that recommendation. Cost is secondary, but since T6 cost is reasonable, that seals the deal.

Who says 153K is high mileage? You're just now getting it broken in...

 

[fdcg27]

Lots of good UOAs on turbo Subies using the Rotella 5W-40.
However, there have also been good UOAs on various Subies using almost any oil.
Subabru did recommend 5W-30 for this application, and I would think any Grp III would be pretty safe.
A 5W-40 might be better during the warmer months.
If you do go to T6, check out some of the longer runs on it in turbo Subes in the UOA forum.
Also, if you like M1, 0W-40 would probably do well in this application.
GC might as well.
OTOH, you might try my current favorite oil, M1 15W-50, during the summer.
Bear in mind that you can often get any grade of M1 on sale somewhere for ~$5.00/qt.

 

[oggb]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Also, if you like M1, 0W-40 would probably do well in this application.
GC might as well.
OTOH, you might try my current favorite oil, M1 15W-50, during the summer.


Any of those oils (M1 0w-40, GC, M1 15w-50) would work great as well. +1

Another (super cheap) option is to run 15w-40 diesel-spec oil during the warm months. Five quarts of Rotella or Delvac will come to ~$13, and both are high-quality oils.

 

[bluesubie]

The Subaru recommended specs you list are interesting. For your model year, SoA recommends API SL and no ACEA specs. I think the above recommendations are clear. Anything but an Energy Conserving oil.

-Dennis

 

[Atticus]

I have seen all the good things about T6, that is why I am planning on making the change. I may also try M1 0w40 but I have never noticed it at the local parts store. I am not doing anything until I see my UOA on my current oil, but what I have seen in most others I will probably be sheared down below my comfort levels. I understand that 153k may not be too high mileage, but for a engine that is going to see regular redline I'm not to sure how much longer it may last. I've personally seen EJ20's with spun bearing at 120k. I have no clue how the previous owners treated my car but I am hoping it was well. So is it a general consensus that a 40 weight would be OK for winter use? I would like to find something i can run year around.

 

[Atticus]

Did some reading on German Castrol, looks like a winner! Some great UOA's out there on it, and seems more of what I would like: True synthetic, not too thick, looks like it wont lose viscosity and keeping my good fuel economy would be a plus! Hopefully It can handle the light abuse I plan on putting on my engine.

 

[Atticus]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
The Subaru recommended specs you list are interesting. For your model year, SoA recommends API SL and no ACEA specs. I think the above recommendations are clear. Anything but an Energy Conserving oil.

-Dennis


I re-checked my FSM to be sure, but It does say SJ "Energy Conserving" 5W30 for the recommended oil.

 

[fdcg27]

WRT spun bearings in the EJ20, I would wonder under exactly what circumstances this happens?
I suspect that if you avoid running a cold engine hard you'll go a long way toward reducing the possibility of a spun bearing.
Some here have also suggested that a spun bearing is more likely immediately after an oil change, and that an engine should not be run hard for the first few hundred miles of an OCI.
Finally, Subaru oil pumps have some insane flow rate, and this may be the reason that Subaru feels a 30 grade is suitable for this engine.
As long as the bearings have their oil replaced more quickly than it gets squeezed out, all should be well.
Incidentally, there is a good, recent UOA of a WRX using GC in that forum.

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: Atticus
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
The Subaru recommended specs you list are interesting. For your model year, SoA recommends API SL and no ACEA specs. I think the above recommendations are clear. Anything but an Energy Conserving oil.

-Dennis


I re-checked my FSM to be sure, but It does say SJ "Energy Conserving" 5W30 for the recommended oil.


Weird. I just checked the OM at my.Subaru.com and it shows SL. Typical SoA oil oddity I suppose. The GC should serve you well!

If the M1 5W-30 is the regular stuff, it will probably show a drop in viscosity to a 20 grade but that's normal for most EC oils in severe conditions. Although we're seeing some good data on the GF5 oils.

-Dennis

 

[Atticus]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
If the M1 5W-30 is the regular stuff, it will probably show a drop in viscosity to a 20 grade but that's normal for most EC oils in severe conditions. Although we're seeing some good data on the GF5 oils.

-Dennis


This is what i am anticipating, and why I am planning to switch. It looks like GC Gold will hold its viscosity much better hopefully. Going on a road trip this weekend, should be a few weeks before I need to change it again though.

 

[Atticus]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
WRT spun bearings in the EJ20, I would wonder under exactly what circumstances this happens?
I suspect that if you avoid running a cold engine hard you'll go a long way toward reducing the possibility of a spun bearing.
Some here have also suggested that a spun bearing is more likely immediately after an oil change, and that an engine should not be run hard for the first few hundred miles of an OCI.
Finally, Subaru oil pumps have some insane flow rate, and this may be the reason that Subaru feels a 30 grade is suitable for this engine.
As long as the bearings have their oil replaced more quickly than it gets squeezed out, all should be well.
Incidentally, there is a good, recent UOA of a WRX using GC in that forum.


The one I personally saw was a car a friend had just bought, literally that day. He was out racing it on the fill It had when he bought it, and spun a bearing during a race. It was sold to him by the local GM dealership. Had quite a few mods, and must have not been taken care of.

 

[jddssc121]

NASIOC has a gazillion threads on oil

Personally, I run GC in the winter, and Rotella T6 in the summer. (2011 WRX)