Kreen in 3.0L Camry

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Yeap, pvc was cleaned and valve changed(all hoses and holes I could get before), today I dosed bunch on carb cleaner and brake cleaner thru pcv holes in back cover + manual clean, and saw it come out clean on the other side. So here is some more pics:
Back cover is finally off, had troubles because of buch of wires in my way:
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left side, right side picture is not really good, but it was cleaner...
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back cover:
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and again:
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forgot to take picture of back one, before I re-installed cover, but got the front one after little clean up:
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right side close up:
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left side close up:
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and sure covers are much cleaner than before...
 
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Looks like a good start, once you finish drop the oil pan. My guess is it will be as bad or worse than the top end of the engine. After that pick a product and stick with it, following the mfg dierctions. Kreen would be my first choice for your engine. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Looks like a good start, once you finish drop the oil pan. My guess is it will be as bad or worse than the top end of the engine. After that pick a product and stick with it, following the mfg dierctions. Kreen would be my first choice for your engine. JMO


He's not going to drop the pan because it involves removing the axle. I agree that it's probably pretty bad, but he can't get to it easily.

OP, good job so far, but what's the idea with this special cleaner from Aus? I wouldn't put anything harsh in this engine, just keep going with Kreen, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Looks like a good start, once you finish drop the oil pan. My guess is it will be as bad or worse than the top end of the engine. After that pick a product and stick with it, following the mfg dierctions. Kreen would be my first choice for your engine. JMO


He's not going to drop the pan because it involves removing the axle. I agree that it's probably pretty bad, but he can't get to it easily.

OP, good job so far, but what's the idea with this special cleaner from Aus? I wouldn't put anything harsh in this engine, just keep going with Kreen, etc.


Good point Don. I guess its time for the rubber to meet the road. From the top end of the engine pictures, I think he's got a long road ahead of him, and I would be very concerned with the pickup screen plugging up. Even the very best engine cleaning/flushes have their limitations. JMO
 
Chemical from Australia should be somewhat between flush and kreen. Should be used for 200 miles. If I fould the right one. They keep changing names for different countries. I'm little surprised by kreen, it melted(left rough kinda varnish) on mesure cup. Didn't do it with water bottle before...
 
OUCH.

This is a good example of why additives get a bad rap. This engine needed a lot more than anyone could expect a can o' magic to deal with.

NO plastics on Kreen! It will eat them up.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
OUCH.

This is a good example of why additives get a bad rap. This engine needed a lot more than anyone could expect a can o' magic to deal with.

NO plastics on Kreen! It will eat them up.


Sort of makes me wonder how much you should use in the fuel system. I ran 16 oz through my BMW at a rate of 1 oz per gallon. Nothing quit or melted. Car actually seems to run a bit better via the butt dyno even during 94-97 degree weather.
 
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Originally Posted By: Russell
I ran 16 oz through my BMW at a rate of 1 oz per gallon. Nothing quit or melted. Car actually seems to run a bit better via the butt dyno even during 94-97 degree weather.


Maybe the Kreen cleaned something up in the rings or combustion chamber, it sure seems like Kreen did something for you.
 
woohoo, car started. From trird try and fully depressed gas pedal. Lots of white smoke comes out, kreen is burning out.
 
So after clouds of white, Kreen smelling smoke were gone, I checked again and topped off coolant. Drained tar black oil, after 875 miles run with Kreen. Put on ocod and filled with gallon of Delvac 15w-40 and quart of Gunk flush. Ran for 5 min(label directions) and drained again. Oil came out very thin and golden color, just like I thought, didn't clean much and thin oil down, good I haven't use 5-20 from stash(compared picture before and after thru filler hole,no change) SO Gunk is GUNK.
Filled car with 4q of Maxlife blend,and 1q. Maxlife full synthetic( last quart SM, got on sale at AZ for 2.99) Both 10w-30.Added last bottle of ARX.
Planning to run this oil for 4k miles with filter change at 2k. Filter is Supertech, next same or last ocod I have, then oversize Pureones for future 5k full synthetic runs.
So far I drove 55 miles, and from first start there is no vibration in steering wheel,at all.Finally! Looks like vibration(not much,though It was wheel balance) that I used to have when over passing someone on highway, somewhere between 2700-3000 rpms on 5th gear is gone,and looks like engine has little more power. But I'm not sure yet 100%. Now will keep eye on startup smoke and consumption,and leaks(hope back gasket set in right).
Next step is to get pcv valve from stealership...
 
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no smoke so far, neither at start up in the morning, neither during hard acceleration. Hope it stays like that...
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
no smoke so far, neither at start up in the morning, neither during hard acceleration. Hope it stays like that...


Keep us posted, and good luck with this vehicle.
 
Yes, your dedication is inspiring. +1!
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I'd still change your oil filter more frequently(perhaps 1,500 miles?) during the initial cleaning efforts since your manual clean. If there is anything extra that could now be floating around inside of your engine, especially if you go the route of additives(perhaps even HDEO), I'd not want to keep my filters on for long at first. Otherwise, your plan sounds alright.
 
I haven't seen any sludge in my filters before. Some little hard parts,yes. But it"s not enough to clog it. But still I will change it at 2k marks,not 1k like before,but not the full Oci ether.Will cut open after 2k to check if it"s fine to hold up.
Rinse with gunk flush and fresh fill should wash off most little lose parts of sludge,that I couldn't scoop out.So I don't worry about this fill for 4k.
There was little tiny puff of smoke on start today,comparing to what was before, it"s nothing. Hope Maxlife and Arx will take care of seals. Might try to add LM Oil saver again after a week of monitoring,to stop it completely.Last time it helped to reduce usage and smoke.
 
Originally Posted By: zyxlenator
There was little tiny puff of smoke on start today,comparing to what was before, it"s nothing


Have you thought about running some type of Fuel Injection Cleaner, this might help clean things up on the fuel side. JMO
 
I'd try Red Line's SI-1 product if he can get to an O'Reilly Auto location, they carry it usually. Either way, a good fuel system cleaner may be in the works for a tank prior to the next oil change. Has the OP changed the fuel filter? If not and planning to do so, doing this after the run of a fuel treatment is the way I prefer.
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OTOH, I wouldn't use Motor Oil Saver; if OP still has some on hand or plans on buying it, until AFTER running this engine detox product he ordered and getting a chance to rinse the remaining AutoRx out. That way, he won't have competing additives doing different jobs(seal conditioner vs seal cleaning).

I like the idea of checking the next oil filter at 2,000. If that is done no worries.

Still, unfortunately there is no way to know how clean/unclean the oil pickup is since access to the oil pan is near impossible in the OP's situation, apparently. That is probably the most important concern moving forward with the cleanup efforts, oil starvation. If only he could find a shop to drop it for him(he have the correct replacement gaskets ready etc) and just clean the pickup/oil pan for him, I'm sure we'd all feel a lot cleaner, pics are a must though.
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Originally Posted By: Itslimjim
I'd try Red Line's SI-1 product if he can get to an O'Reilly Auto location, they carry it usually. Either way, a good fuel system cleaner may be in the works for a tank prior to the next oil change.


He could also try Techron if he cannot get Redline Fuel System Cleaner.

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. Has the OP changed the fuel filter? If not and planning to do so, doing this after the run of a fuel treatment is the way I prefer.


+1

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I like the idea of checking the next oil filter at 2,000. If that is done no worries.


I do not think he will see anything in his oil filter. JMO

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Still, unfortunately there is no way to know how clean/unclean the oil pickup is since access to the oil pan is near impossible in the OP's situation, apparently. That is probably the most important concern moving forward with the cleanup efforts, oil starvation. If only he could find a shop to drop it for him(he have the correct replacement gaskets ready etc) and just clean the pickup/oil pan for him, I'm sure we'd all feel a lot cleaner, pics are a must though


I really do not think this is an issue, the OP had sludge in his valvetrain, the cylinder head is probably the coolest part of the engine, that is just my opinion, if his pickup screen was clogged or partially clogged then I think he would have terrible noises or the engine would not be running.

I believe the OP is on the right track, let him continue his JOURNEY, I believe all will eventually be fine, he just needs to stick with short OCI's with whatever oil additive or cleaner he choses to use.

I also think that the OP is an asset to this board since he did show us his VALVETRAIN PICS. Every member or whoever else is reading this thread can gain alot of knowledge. There have been so many times where members have used an oil additive to clean up there engines and for whatever reason they do not show us the Valvetrain Pics, maybe they got rid of the vehicle, maybe removing the Valve Cover was to difficult, but the OP did come true on his promise to show us Valvetrain Pics, and we should all be greatful, and lets help him out in any way that we can. JMO
 
There is a way to clean the pick up screen and pan without dropping it.

Drain the oil and reinsert the drain plug, fill with 6qts of carb and parts cleaner. Do not fill it up to the gasket or crank, 6 qts in a 4.5- 5qt pan will fill the pan but not enough to have seals etc sitting in it.
You want it in the pan only!

Let it sit 2 or 3 days, do not turn the engine over, let it drain completely and refill with cheap oil.
Run the engine for 10 min and change the oil and filter.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=8058836

This alone will remove most of the junk out of the pan and the screen.

Adding one of these will clean it like new, it can be held in place with straps, gaffers tape etc, the main thing is it need to have full and tight contact with the bottom of the pan. Run it for about 4-6 hrs after letting it sit with the cleaner still in the pan.
These can be found on ebay cheaper than this, this is just an example.

http://cgi.ebay.com/60W-ULTRASOUND-GENER...=item4aaafbdf67
 
To clarify, my comments were about concerns for oil starvation, if the pickup could have some blockage is simply something I'd be concerned with. I don't have enough experience to go with what Trav just recommended, either, but that also scares me the same, though I could see how that would work if done exactly right and not exposing the seals/gaskets to operation while using that stuff as a 'soak', and definitely rinsing it out with a 'short' start-up/rinse.

It would be a lot like a mild engine flush at idle prior to dropping the oil at that point, but definitely a rinse should be in order if going with that method.
 
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