Best bypass filter for an air-cooled VW?

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Hello, my name is Brian.

I have a newly built performance air-cooled VW engine. It is only equipped with the factory screen at the moment. I like the idea of adding a bypass filter, and I've heard it was a VW factory option, as well as a standard item on early Porsche engines.

I plan on doing oil and filter changes every 3000 miles, regardless of the visual condition of the oil.

That stated, what do you think the best product for my VW would be? I'm looking at the Frantz, and I like the idea of the Amsoil spin-on filter, but at $40.00 its a lot of money every oil change. Yeah, I know they say you don't have to change it every time, but I need convincing.

Thanks for the help!

Brian
 
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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
The convincing you need is if you are doing 3K OCI's you DON'T need a bypass filter.


Does OCI stand for Oil Change Interval? I'm new here. I wouldn't be adding the filter because I HAVE to, but because I WANT to.
 
Originally Posted By: EricF
why not just plumb in a remote oil filter? There's room for the standard FL-1A sized filter.


I like the idea behind super cleaning the oil with a bypass. I am already aware of a multitude of options if I want to run a conventional full-flow filter/oil pump combination.
 
You do not change the Amsoil filter at every oil change, by design it lasts a lots of miles. What makes you think the amsoil filter doesn't stand up to the long intervals. I am wondering? Go with the Frantz if you want to change filters often. Another choice would be to get a wix or Baldwin bypass filter setup. which is what engines used before full fluw filters were in use . The mounts and hoses and spin on element can be purchased at a decent car parts store ,Napa should have them I worked on forklifts for 23.5 years and all the old ones had then installed . There are some posts of people installing them on their cars to try to get a low cost bypass filter but the elements usually filter the same as a full flow filter .
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
You do not change the Amsoil filter at every oil change, by design it lasts a lots of miles. What makes you think the amsoil filter doesn't stand up to the long intervals. I am wondering?

>>I'm just anal that way. I can't see inside the filter, and all my life I've been told the dirtiest oil is inside the filter


Go with the Frantz if you want to change filters often. Another choice would be to get a wix or Baldwin bypass filter setup. which is what engines used before full fluw filters were in use . The mounts and hoses and spin on element can be purchased at a decent car parts store ,Napa should have them I worked on forklifts for 23.5 years and all the old ones had then installed . There are some posts of people installing them on their cars to try to get a low cost bypass filter but the elements usually filter the same as a full flow filter .


>>Thanks for the help! maybe the resident Amsoil guy will chime in also!<<
 
A few years ago, I saw an article in Hot VWs magazine where a bypass oil system was described. It involved cutting a small bit of the fan housing tin in front of the distributor and installing an oil plumbing adaptor that would accept an oil filter. Ask around VW parts suppliers, they would know where to source out a kit for you. Better yet , ask in the forums of Hot VWs or those catering to VW enthusiasts such as thesamba.com.
 
I've got a 2 page query going on at the VW tech forum on the web, Shoptalkforums. I've also done a search on the Samba and others.

Thanks, though, I appreciate the ideas.
 
If it were me it'd be the Frantz, hands down. And the idea that you'd need to change the element frequently is a little silly--it's not like you're putting it on a diesel engine where it would load up with soot.
 
BSousa, welcome to bitog and vw's. If. You have the time, check out the Gene Berg Ent's web site. The late Gene Berg spent an alful lot of time researching things before he put it to print. Case in point, he has some sound info regarding the use of full flow filters for the hot rodded vw engine. Some of his info is considered outdated (compression ratios for example) but he was pretty conservative with daily driven vw's but had some of the fastest cars running his components (son Gary's 12 second street in the mid '70's). And regarding the full flow they have instructions on how to install without tearing the engine apart.
Hope this helps, Bill.
 
Hi again Brian. Regarding the previous poster the method of taping into the oil cooler adaptor never hit a sweet spot with anyone out there. You already have your by-pass filter set-up and unless there are issues, leave it be. The addition of a full flow filter raises a couple of issues. The issue of installing a filter/pump arrangement is a clean install but with your merged exhaust, clearance is the issue. Also most are of low quality manufacture. But one is made by VW of Mexico and should be good if it clears your exhaust. John Connelly at Air Cooled dot net I think carries them. You would just have to consider a short filter. The other issue is the oil pumps with the in-and-out fitting on the cover which is too restricted with its small holes and tight bends.
In my opinion, the ultimate, if you really feel the need for a full flow filter, would be to properly full flow the case, and get a full flow oil pump cover, plug the pump outlet, and run hoses to a small OBERG filter mounted somewhere out of sight. This is because it looks as if cosmetics are a concern with your rod.
Hope this helps, Bill.
 
And want to ask, what oil and viscosity are you using? Different seasonal viscosity changes? If you are using an aftermarket cam/lifters hope your oil choice satisfies this.
With some exceptions, possibly a rule of thumb is 1 qt per 1000 miles for OCI.
Bill
 
I'm using Mobil 1 5W30 and a little STP for added zinc. Hopefully enough zinc to keep my Engle 120 camshaft bumpy.
 
Hi, I am a regular on shoptalkforums also (name is rockerarm). I would be interested in reading your post there. What is your name there and what section is it in?
You are probably the only one I can think of that decided to run Mobil 1 with an Engle cam. In the past on other VW sites people discussed the problem with cam/lifters pitting or going flat. Recently Engle cams was bought out and a HotVW's article on quality improvements with there products. Bill
 
My username on all forums I frequent is brian10x.

FYI, I use ZDDP additive along with Mobil One.
 
Hi again. You probably aren't the first and won't be the last but would you entertain the idea of used oil analysis to determine if your concoction of M1 and the zddp additive is protecting your cam/lifters and the relationship between the valve adjusting screw and valve tip. Bill
 
have been using frantz bypass oil filters since the early 60`s..have one on my 92 dodge/cummins, use mobile/exxon #30 oil, change the roll of terlit paper every 2500/3000 miles, and send in a sample every other time. i use "scott 1000" terlit paper. i always let it sit overnite so the oil runs down some, and don`t have a mess when removing the used roll, and use an old plastic dish pan to quickly put the used one in. i have been changing the oil at 20,000 miles...mite go 25,000 next time, cause the oil is fine! there is a website from a company in idaho..."wefilterit.com...they also have one for fuel...clyde
 
Mr Clyde, it sounds as if you got your "game" covered. But, I'd like to ask why are you using a straight 30wt oil in your neck of the woods? I would think it is pretty cold up there now and a "traditional" 15w-40 or 10w-30 diesel specific oil would be better. Bill
 
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