What is the MOST effective in the crankcase for cleaning and lubrication?
MMO vs Sea Foam vs Lucas
- Thread starter theshallot
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personally, I run STP gas treatment AND STP Fuel Injector cleanor, IMO best bang for the buck. But with your choices, I say Sea Foam
oil.
JHZR2
Staff member
Yeah, oil.
Brand name SL, SM or SN oils, not Terrible Herbst or Kangaroo oil.
shhh....lol. you should have put this in the additives forum
Put your flame retardent suit on now.
For "best" cleaning....it's hard to say. I've had good luck with Seafoam in the crankcase (only like 5-6 oz.....at 1.5 oz. per QUART of oil currently in the crankcase). Best to do this in the morning (when the engine is cold) - but before your cup of coffee...so it can kind of "mingle in" with the oil before you go cranking it over and driving down the highway.
I've done the Seafoam in the crankcase both PRE Oil Change (1000 miles before my next scheduled Oil Change), as well as POST oil change (added it to the oil right after your oil change). The trick is to run the seafoam in the crankcase no more than 3000 miles.....sure it probably won't "harm" the engine.....my theory is that by 3000 miles (well, more like 500 miles probably...) the Isopropanol, Light Oil, and Naptha have likely completely "burned off" by then......and have done the job of suspending the contaminants (be it varnish, sludge, whatever....) within the motor oil, to be drained out at the next scheduled OCI....
I used the Seafoam treatment on 2 "pre owned" low mileage leased/rental vehicles and at each OCI, the oil came out extremely black.....and that was with SL pennzoil bulk dealer oil (yea, the first 2 oil changes were covered under warranty, so I took them). It even fixed a "cold start" clatter/noise on my Kia Rio....
As far as MMO, it's alright, but it's a very slow cleaner, again, you want to only run it in the oil for max 3000 miles....it's not something you go running extended oil drains with
At least I wouldn't...not saying the product is BAD by any means, but the product was developed in the early days of 3000 mile OCIs....so they haven't "re-tested" it to see if it'll have any advantage/distadvantages in extended intervals...from my personal experience, I ran 3 back to back OCIs of MMO in my newest vehicle, the 88 Dodge Aries, I've found after about 500-1000 miles on the oil, the dip stick will read slightly low.....now I'm not one to right away grab for a top off...as I don't typically check the oil at good times (drive way, on a hill; or at the gas station, 2 minutes after turning the vehicle off; oil is likely still up in the top end...) and I always have the horrible feeling of over-filling.
As I mentioned with the Seafoam though, I have a feeling the MMO must burn off, leaving the carbon/sludge deposits to be suspended in the "fresh" (at least "fresher" than that sludge that used to be in there) motor oil...causing the low oil level.....the car has no leaks, I hear the MMO is also good for the seals.
As far as Lucas? I'm not familar with any "cleaning" product by Lucas....unless you are referring to the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Also known around the mechanic world as "Lucas Motor Snot"....if that's what you are referring to; I'd stay away from it. It has very limited cleaners/detergents, IF ANY at all....as shown in some virgin oil analysis' on this site (try a search using lucas virgin oil analysis site:bobistheoilguy.com at google.)
It makes a good oil thickener for those vehicles blowing smoke, or leaking.....but if that were something you're looking to fix, I'd say try something like the "No Leak" product next to the Bars Leaks Engine Repair....or the STP blue bottle, at least those carry some sort of detergents/additives
But really, MMO/Seafoam are one in there own....I don't lump them under the same category as the "Engine Repair" "No Smoke" Stop Leaks, STP blue/red bottle, Lucas Oil Stabilizer.... since MMO/Seafoam are meant to be used as "cleaners" where the aforementioned are geared towards "bandaiding" a problem.
Sure, I guess you can consider a dirty/sludged engine a problem, but not everyone is fortunate enough to buy a brand new vehicle
And that's why I took over the 88 Dodge Aries
$200 back in my pocket every month, not to mention no comp/collision coverage since it's paid for
For "best" cleaning....it's hard to say. I've had good luck with Seafoam in the crankcase (only like 5-6 oz.....at 1.5 oz. per QUART of oil currently in the crankcase). Best to do this in the morning (when the engine is cold) - but before your cup of coffee...so it can kind of "mingle in" with the oil before you go cranking it over and driving down the highway.
I've done the Seafoam in the crankcase both PRE Oil Change (1000 miles before my next scheduled Oil Change), as well as POST oil change (added it to the oil right after your oil change). The trick is to run the seafoam in the crankcase no more than 3000 miles.....sure it probably won't "harm" the engine.....my theory is that by 3000 miles (well, more like 500 miles probably...) the Isopropanol, Light Oil, and Naptha have likely completely "burned off" by then......and have done the job of suspending the contaminants (be it varnish, sludge, whatever....) within the motor oil, to be drained out at the next scheduled OCI....
I used the Seafoam treatment on 2 "pre owned" low mileage leased/rental vehicles and at each OCI, the oil came out extremely black.....and that was with SL pennzoil bulk dealer oil (yea, the first 2 oil changes were covered under warranty, so I took them). It even fixed a "cold start" clatter/noise on my Kia Rio....
As far as MMO, it's alright, but it's a very slow cleaner, again, you want to only run it in the oil for max 3000 miles....it's not something you go running extended oil drains with
As I mentioned with the Seafoam though, I have a feeling the MMO must burn off, leaving the carbon/sludge deposits to be suspended in the "fresh" (at least "fresher" than that sludge that used to be in there) motor oil...causing the low oil level.....the car has no leaks, I hear the MMO is also good for the seals.
As far as Lucas? I'm not familar with any "cleaning" product by Lucas....unless you are referring to the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Also known around the mechanic world as "Lucas Motor Snot"....if that's what you are referring to; I'd stay away from it. It has very limited cleaners/detergents, IF ANY at all....as shown in some virgin oil analysis' on this site (try a search using lucas virgin oil analysis site:bobistheoilguy.com at google.)
It makes a good oil thickener for those vehicles blowing smoke, or leaking.....but if that were something you're looking to fix, I'd say try something like the "No Leak" product next to the Bars Leaks Engine Repair....or the STP blue bottle, at least those carry some sort of detergents/additives
But really, MMO/Seafoam are one in there own....I don't lump them under the same category as the "Engine Repair" "No Smoke" Stop Leaks, STP blue/red bottle, Lucas Oil Stabilizer.... since MMO/Seafoam are meant to be used as "cleaners" where the aforementioned are geared towards "bandaiding" a problem.
Sure, I guess you can consider a dirty/sludged engine a problem, but not everyone is fortunate enough to buy a brand new vehicle
Originally Posted By: ahoier
shhh....lol. you should have put this in the additives forum
Put your flame retardent suit on now.
For "best" cleaning....it's hard to say. I've had good luck with Seafoam in the crankcase (only like 5-6 oz.....at 1.5 oz. per QUART of oil currently in the crankcase). Best to do this in the morning (when the engine is cold) - but before your cup of coffee...so it can kind of "mingle in" with the oil before you go cranking it over and driving down the highway.
I've done the Seafoam in the crankcase both PRE Oil Change (1000 miles before my next scheduled Oil Change), as well as POST oil change (added it to the oil right after your oil change). The trick is to run the seafoam in the crankcase no more than 3000 miles.....sure it probably won't "harm" the engine.....my theory is that by 3000 miles (well, more like 500 miles probably...) the Isopropanol, Light Oil, and Naptha have likely completely "burned off" by then......and have done the job of suspending the contaminants (be it varnish, sludge, whatever....) within the motor oil, to be drained out at the next scheduled OCI....
I used the Seafoam treatment on 2 "pre owned" low mileage leased/rental vehicles and at each OCI, the oil came out extremely black.....and that was with SL pennzoil bulk dealer oil (yea, the first 2 oil changes were covered under warranty, so I took them). It even fixed a "cold start" clatter/noise on my Kia Rio....
As far as MMO, it's alright, but it's a very slow cleaner, again, you want to only run it in the oil for max 3000 miles....it's not something you go running extended oil drains with
At least I wouldn't...not saying the product is BAD by any means, but the product was developed in the early days of 3000 mile OCIs....so they haven't "re-tested" it to see if it'll have any advantage/distadvantages in extended intervals...from my personal experience, I ran 3 back to back OCIs of MMO in my newest vehicle, the 88 Dodge Aries, I've found after about 500-1000 miles on the oil, the dip stick will read slightly low.....now I'm not one to right away grab for a top off...as I don't typically check the oil at good times (drive way, on a hill; or at the gas station, 2 minutes after turning the vehicle off; oil is likely still up in the top end...) and I always have the horrible feeling of over-filling.
As I mentioned with the Seafoam though, I have a feeling the MMO must burn off, leaving the carbon/sludge deposits to be suspended in the "fresh" (at least "fresher" than that sludge that used to be in there) motor oil...causing the low oil level.....the car has no leaks, I hear the MMO is also good for the seals.
As far as Lucas? I'm not familar with any "cleaning" product by Lucas....unless you are referring to the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Also known around the mechanic world as "Lucas Motor Snot"....if that's what you are referring to; I'd stay away from it. It has very limited cleaners/detergents, IF ANY at all....as shown in some virgin oil analysis' on this site (try a search using lucas virgin oil analysis site:bobistheoilguy.com at google.)
It makes a good oil thickener for those vehicles blowing smoke, or leaking.....but if that were something you're looking to fix, I'd say try something like the "No Leak" product next to the Bars Leaks Engine Repair....or the STP blue bottle, at least those carry some sort of detergents/additives
But really, MMO/Seafoam are one in there own....I don't lump them under the same category as the "Engine Repair" "No Smoke" Stop Leaks, STP blue/red bottle, Lucas Oil Stabilizer.... since MMO/Seafoam are meant to be used as "cleaners" where the aforementioned are geared towards "bandaiding" a problem.
Sure, I guess you can consider a dirty/sludged engine a problem, but not everyone is fortunate enough to buy a brand new vehicle
And that's why I took over the 88 Dodge Aries
$200 back in my pocket every month, not to mention no comp/collision coverage since it's paid for
Oppps!!! I didnt know there was a section just for additives. Im new.
In any case thats a helpful post! Thank you! Im not going to use Lucas then.
shhh....lol. you should have put this in the additives forum
For "best" cleaning....it's hard to say. I've had good luck with Seafoam in the crankcase (only like 5-6 oz.....at 1.5 oz. per QUART of oil currently in the crankcase). Best to do this in the morning (when the engine is cold) - but before your cup of coffee...so it can kind of "mingle in" with the oil before you go cranking it over and driving down the highway.
I've done the Seafoam in the crankcase both PRE Oil Change (1000 miles before my next scheduled Oil Change), as well as POST oil change (added it to the oil right after your oil change). The trick is to run the seafoam in the crankcase no more than 3000 miles.....sure it probably won't "harm" the engine.....my theory is that by 3000 miles (well, more like 500 miles probably...) the Isopropanol, Light Oil, and Naptha have likely completely "burned off" by then......and have done the job of suspending the contaminants (be it varnish, sludge, whatever....) within the motor oil, to be drained out at the next scheduled OCI....
I used the Seafoam treatment on 2 "pre owned" low mileage leased/rental vehicles and at each OCI, the oil came out extremely black.....and that was with SL pennzoil bulk dealer oil (yea, the first 2 oil changes were covered under warranty, so I took them). It even fixed a "cold start" clatter/noise on my Kia Rio....
As far as MMO, it's alright, but it's a very slow cleaner, again, you want to only run it in the oil for max 3000 miles....it's not something you go running extended oil drains with
As I mentioned with the Seafoam though, I have a feeling the MMO must burn off, leaving the carbon/sludge deposits to be suspended in the "fresh" (at least "fresher" than that sludge that used to be in there) motor oil...causing the low oil level.....the car has no leaks, I hear the MMO is also good for the seals.
As far as Lucas? I'm not familar with any "cleaning" product by Lucas....unless you are referring to the Lucas Oil Stabilizer, Also known around the mechanic world as "Lucas Motor Snot"....if that's what you are referring to; I'd stay away from it. It has very limited cleaners/detergents, IF ANY at all....as shown in some virgin oil analysis' on this site (try a search using lucas virgin oil analysis site:bobistheoilguy.com at google.)
It makes a good oil thickener for those vehicles blowing smoke, or leaking.....but if that were something you're looking to fix, I'd say try something like the "No Leak" product next to the Bars Leaks Engine Repair....or the STP blue bottle, at least those carry some sort of detergents/additives
But really, MMO/Seafoam are one in there own....I don't lump them under the same category as the "Engine Repair" "No Smoke" Stop Leaks, STP blue/red bottle, Lucas Oil Stabilizer.... since MMO/Seafoam are meant to be used as "cleaners" where the aforementioned are geared towards "bandaiding" a problem.
Sure, I guess you can consider a dirty/sludged engine a problem, but not everyone is fortunate enough to buy a brand new vehicle
Oppps!!! I didnt know there was a section just for additives. Im new.
In any case thats a helpful post! Thank you! Im not going to use Lucas then.
Why does the crankcase need cleaning? Neglect? bought the car and found out it was sludged up?
I once added MMO, Sea Foam, and Lucas to my crankcase and found that the lubrication was so greatly improved that the engine would continue to spin for hours after it was shut off and fuel efficiency was improved to the point where I had to pull to the side of the road periodically and siphon gasoline out of my tank in order to keep the gasoline from overflowing the tank and running out the filler nozzle.
Ignore all the engine manufacturer's recommendations about oil additives and just support your favorite aftermarket 'mousemilk'
wallet leach.
wallet leach.
If I wanted my best shot at cleaning a known dirty engine -
Amsoil flush - run it 30 min.
Fill with new oil with known high detergents. Run 3k.
Last 1500 miles of OCI, remove 16oz to 1 QT oil and drop in 16oz to 1 qt of Neutra 131.
But if by "dirty" you mean old heavy varnish, then I believe nothing will work. It's laquered up for good.
Amsoil flush - run it 30 min.
Fill with new oil with known high detergents. Run 3k.
Last 1500 miles of OCI, remove 16oz to 1 QT oil and drop in 16oz to 1 qt of Neutra 131.
But if by "dirty" you mean old heavy varnish, then I believe nothing will work. It's laquered up for good.
top off with mmo about 500 miles before your next oc if you think you really need some cleaning.
Honestly, I did on occasion put in some MMO on some engines a hundred miles or so before an oil change when an inspection inside the valve cover revealed a dirty, sludgy upper end and it did seem to do some cleaning. But this ways back in the early/mid 1980's. In recent years, I've never seen any significant buildup of sludge or gunk inside of the valve covers of any of my cars that have been feed a decent brand name oil of the proper grade and had the oil changed on reasonable oil change intervals (my interval is typically around the 5k mile mark). The cleaning ability of modern oils just seem so improved over what we had back in the day that I've just never had any inclination to "clean" the inside of my engine in recent years, because they've never looked like they needed cleaning.
Now, the cars I have been buying in recent years have been Japanese 4 or 6 cylinders engines and perhaps most of these engines are simply not prone to slugging, but I put most of it down to the large advancements made in oil technology in the last 20 odd years.
On the other hand, I do love the way MMO smells. Maybe MMO should make a men's cologne or aftershave.
Now, the cars I have been buying in recent years have been Japanese 4 or 6 cylinders engines and perhaps most of these engines are simply not prone to slugging, but I put most of it down to the large advancements made in oil technology in the last 20 odd years.
On the other hand, I do love the way MMO smells. Maybe MMO should make a men's cologne or aftershave.
Originally Posted By: engineerscott
I once added MMO, Sea Foam, and Lucas to my crankcase and found that the lubrication was so greatly improved that the engine would continue to spin for hours after it was shut off and fuel efficiency was improved to the point where I had to pull to the side of the road periodically and siphon gasoline out of my tank in order to keep the gasoline from overflowing the tank and running out the filler nozzle.
my favorite thing all week
I once added MMO, Sea Foam, and Lucas to my crankcase and found that the lubrication was so greatly improved that the engine would continue to spin for hours after it was shut off and fuel efficiency was improved to the point where I had to pull to the side of the road periodically and siphon gasoline out of my tank in order to keep the gasoline from overflowing the tank and running out the filler nozzle.
my favorite thing all week
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