so what are the top 5 motorcycle oils?
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Thanks for the posts guys.
The Delvac 1300 HDEO(right?) 15w40 I ran just couldn't hold up. I noticed it was thinning at about 900 miles. Changed at 1300. Only $9 who cares.
Put some 20w50 (something) in. Still holding up nicely, and definitely thicker. Probably not good for wet clutches but who cares, I don't slip my clutch very much so I don't think it'll be a problem.
The Delvac 1300 HDEO(right?) 15w40 I ran just couldn't hold up. I noticed it was thinning at about 900 miles. Changed at 1300. Only $9 who cares.
Put some 20w50 (something) in. Still holding up nicely, and definitely thicker. Probably not good for wet clutches but who cares, I don't slip my clutch very much so I don't think it'll be a problem.
I have 10 hours on my dirtbike with VR1 synthetic 20w-50 and no problems whatsoever with the clutch. It has run 15w-50 M1 since I bought it brand new in the crate and filled it with 15w-50 before it started the first time.
I figure the recommendation of motorcycle oil is to help boost the sales of the motorcycle oil. The VR1 is working perfectly well for me. Especially considering it was free after the rebate. I got a bunch of cases of it from friends and look forward to using it for a long time.
I figure the recommendation of motorcycle oil is to help boost the sales of the motorcycle oil. The VR1 is working perfectly well for me. Especially considering it was free after the rebate. I got a bunch of cases of it from friends and look forward to using it for a long time.
Originally Posted By: rancur3p1c
The Delvac 1300 HDEO(right?) 15w40 I ran just couldn't hold up. I noticed it was thinning at about 900 miles. Changed at 1300. Only $9 who cares.
What kind of bike do you have? It's really unusual to hear of any problems with an HDEO like Delvac here on this forum.
How did you notice it was thinning? What symptoms did it have?
The Delvac 1300 HDEO(right?) 15w40 I ran just couldn't hold up. I noticed it was thinning at about 900 miles. Changed at 1300. Only $9 who cares.
What kind of bike do you have? It's really unusual to hear of any problems with an HDEO like Delvac here on this forum.
How did you notice it was thinning? What symptoms did it have?
Originally Posted By: Scoot_4_20
Originally Posted By: rancur3p1c
The Delvac 1300 HDEO(right?) 15w40 I ran just couldn't hold up. I noticed it was thinning at about 900 miles. Changed at 1300. Only $9 who cares.
What kind of bike do you have? It's really unusual to hear of any problems with an HDEO like Delvac here on this forum.
How did you notice it was thinning? What symptoms did it have?
sv1000s.
I could be imagining it, but engine braking less than it used to be when the engine was really warm.
I'll try again and pay more attention. I guess I'd have to get an analysis of sorts to see if it's been all sheered up from the transmission gears?
Originally Posted By: rancur3p1c
The Delvac 1300 HDEO(right?) 15w40 I ran just couldn't hold up. I noticed it was thinning at about 900 miles. Changed at 1300. Only $9 who cares.
What kind of bike do you have? It's really unusual to hear of any problems with an HDEO like Delvac here on this forum.
How did you notice it was thinning? What symptoms did it have?
sv1000s.
I could be imagining it, but engine braking less than it used to be when the engine was really warm.
I'll try again and pay more attention. I guess I'd have to get an analysis of sorts to see if it's been all sheered up from the transmission gears?
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Originally Posted By: Lost1
Did you look through the motorcycle UOA's to see if someone with the same bike posted one? That may give you some insight.
After using most of the $10-$15/qt m/c synthetics I've settled on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing dino. UOA's have shown it holds up as well to the heat in my Twin Cam Harley as the boutique synthetics...
Where do you buy it?
Did you look through the motorcycle UOA's to see if someone with the same bike posted one? That may give you some insight.
After using most of the $10-$15/qt m/c synthetics I've settled on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing dino. UOA's have shown it holds up as well to the heat in my Twin Cam Harley as the boutique synthetics...
Where do you buy it?
Originally Posted By: grampi
Where do you buy it?
Autozone and Orielly's around my neck of the woods
Where do you buy it?
Autozone and Orielly's around my neck of the woods
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/
Clearly shows three products, the first being the dino VR1, and third being synthetic VR1.
Not sure where you saw only syn, but that link shows all. =)
Clearly shows three products, the first being the dino VR1, and third being synthetic VR1.
Not sure where you saw only syn, but that link shows all. =)
Originally Posted By: Qwiky
Re: VR1. I'll think you will find it is not the Moly, but other non-specified friction modifiers the reason they don't recommend its use.
Yup. It has nothing to do with moly.
Re: VR1. I'll think you will find it is not the Moly, but other non-specified friction modifiers the reason they don't recommend its use.
Yup. It has nothing to do with moly.
Originally Posted By: car54
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/
Clearly shows three products, the first being the dino VR1, and third being synthetic VR1.
Not sure where you saw only syn, but that link shows all. =)
Cool. Thanks.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/
Clearly shows three products, the first being the dino VR1, and third being synthetic VR1.
Not sure where you saw only syn, but that link shows all. =)
Cool. Thanks.
Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: Lost1
Did you look through the motorcycle UOA's to see if someone with the same bike posted one? That may give you some insight.
After using most of the $10-$15/qt m/c synthetics I've settled on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing dino. UOA's have shown it holds up as well to the heat in my Twin Cam Harley as the boutique synthetics...
Where do you buy it?
In my area Autozone, Advance Auto, & O'Reilley's all carry it. It usually runs about $4.50/qt, but AZ puts it on sale for $2.49 & O'Reilley's $2.79. I buy a case at a time when it's on sale & that lasts me 3 oil changes with some left over...
Originally Posted By: Lost1
Did you look through the motorcycle UOA's to see if someone with the same bike posted one? That may give you some insight.
After using most of the $10-$15/qt m/c synthetics I've settled on Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing dino. UOA's have shown it holds up as well to the heat in my Twin Cam Harley as the boutique synthetics...
Where do you buy it?
In my area Autozone, Advance Auto, & O'Reilley's all carry it. It usually runs about $4.50/qt, but AZ puts it on sale for $2.49 & O'Reilley's $2.79. I buy a case at a time when it's on sale & that lasts me 3 oil changes with some left over...
I would use either Amsoil or Royal Purple. I use Amsoil 10-40 in my FJ1100, which is air cooled. Every dino oil I've tried in a bike was shot by 1500 miles; My OCI with Amsoil (or Royal Purple, I can just get Amsoil for less) is 5000 miles, and it has life left at that point. I think that since most of us don't live in a place with $20 a quart oil its silly to make price of oil a consideration. [censored], even at $20 a quart it would be silly. I would be amazed if I could run up a higher bill for "boutique" oil and filters on my motorcycle (Even over 100K miles of OCIs @ 5K per) than it would cost to replace my motor. That goes doubly for the motor or trans in my F150, which also gets the "boutique treatment" from front to back. I know I don't want to spend thousands in repair or replacement of a motor or trans in that, either. Not for want of another 2 or 3 bucks per quart. That's silly.
I ran that Mobil1 High milege, it took me a week to get use to its effect on the clutch, you could tell it was slicker.
In the end, I went back to Higher friction oil cause the clutch is pushing 90,000 miles.
In the end, I went back to Higher friction oil cause the clutch is pushing 90,000 miles.
After a ton of research, and testing in my engines, I settled on Amsoil 20-50. It improved performance and mileage on my motorcycles, and I run it exclusively. Yeah it is sold only under railroad bridges by leprechauns, but from the second you put the stuff in, you can tell a difference. No I don't sell it, but I do strongly recommend it.
Wild Bill
BMW GS1200, Buell XB12X, Buell XB12XT, Star Roadliner S
Wild Bill
BMW GS1200, Buell XB12X, Buell XB12XT, Star Roadliner S
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Top oils are the expensive ones such as Amsoil Maxima4 Ultra, M1 4T and RP if can be afforded.
Otherwise mobil st1300 is one good lube. My b-king loves it. Surprizingly I have never had good luck with Rotella T 15W-40 due to a bit notchier shifting and a just rougher & noisier engine.My Honda 919 did not like the shell either.
I have tried the M1 HM 10W-40 a few times and liked it.
Some report that GC 0-30 and M1 0-40 work as well but I have not tried them.
Otherwise mobil st1300 is one good lube. My b-king loves it. Surprizingly I have never had good luck with Rotella T 15W-40 due to a bit notchier shifting and a just rougher & noisier engine.My Honda 919 did not like the shell either.
I have tried the M1 HM 10W-40 a few times and liked it.
Some report that GC 0-30 and M1 0-40 work as well but I have not tried them.
Originally Posted By: D Hill
I think that since most of us don't live in a place with $20 a quart oil its silly to make price of oil a consideration. [censored], even at $20 a quart it would be silly.
I agree to a point, but wouldn't you also agree it would be even more silly to pay $20 a qt if there was an oil with UOAs as good or better than that of the pricey oils for less than 1/4 of the price?
I think that since most of us don't live in a place with $20 a quart oil its silly to make price of oil a consideration. [censored], even at $20 a quart it would be silly.
I agree to a point, but wouldn't you also agree it would be even more silly to pay $20 a qt if there was an oil with UOAs as good or better than that of the pricey oils for less than 1/4 of the price?
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Originally Posted By: Lost1
Originally Posted By: FowVay
Hope it doesn't have any impact on my wet clutch. If so,,,, I'll just change it out.
Please post back & let us know how it works with your clutch...
Well, so far I have not had any issues at all with the clutch on the transmission. However, my alternator is driven through a clutch and I notice my battery isn't charging anymore.
Whether this is directly related to the VR1 won't be known until I replace the VR1 with a JASO MA rated lube.
But,, that VR1 is the slickest oil I've ever seen. I did a valve adjustment and my shims were too slick to get them out of their buckets. I had to use a magnet to get a bite on them.
Originally Posted By: FowVay
Hope it doesn't have any impact on my wet clutch. If so,,,, I'll just change it out.
Please post back & let us know how it works with your clutch...
Well, so far I have not had any issues at all with the clutch on the transmission. However, my alternator is driven through a clutch and I notice my battery isn't charging anymore.
Whether this is directly related to the VR1 won't be known until I replace the VR1 with a JASO MA rated lube.
But,, that VR1 is the slickest oil I've ever seen. I did a valve adjustment and my shims were too slick to get them out of their buckets. I had to use a magnet to get a bite on them.
Originally Posted By: FowVay
But,, that VR1 is the slickest oil I've ever seen. I did a valve adjustment and my shims were too slick to get them out of their buckets. I had to use a magnet to get a bite on them.
I really, really, really hope you used an old cassette tape demagnetiser on those shims afterwards....
But,, that VR1 is the slickest oil I've ever seen. I did a valve adjustment and my shims were too slick to get them out of their buckets. I had to use a magnet to get a bite on them.
I really, really, really hope you used an old cassette tape demagnetiser on those shims afterwards....
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