Oil for 6.0L Powerstroke?

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Problem with 30 grade is the HTHS is typically 3.4-3.5. You need atleast 3.7 for the powerstroke if I remember correctly from a ford engineer. Mobil 1 TDT is 3.8 HTHS and does very well in the 6.0 powerstrokes with proper filters. I would go Mobil 1 if your wanting synthetic. I would go Mobil 1 delvac 1300 or chevron delo LE if you want dino.

Before I got the Duramax I have now, i owned a '04 6.0 powerstroke for 5 years, and all I ran was Mobil 1 TDT, its a great year round oil.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: Jakebrake
Any questions just ask.


OK - Here's a few questions:

* Are you aware that thiner oils (10w-30) perform really well in the cold for cold-start and "romp" issues, and they are OEM approved?
(BTW - your average low in DEC in Fallon is +17 deg F; same as all of us in the central mid-west. You don't "need" synthetic in your area; dino 10w-30 would perform just as well.)

* What's wrong with a 30 grade anyway? I've seen very good UOAs with these engines when 30 grade was the starting point.

* Did you know that 30 grade lubes don't shear much, if any, at all in the PSD? The HEUI seems to prefer 30 grades, and if you don't feed it one, it will take your 40 grade and make you one in about 5k miles or so. (There is nothing wrong with using either grade; I just am trying to dispell the myth that 30 grades are undesireable. Shearing of oil without proof of detrimental wear is simple rhetoric and unfounded fear.)

* How in the world will fuel treatment keep the EGR clean? (I've never seen that claim from any of the major fuel treatment makers such as Howes, Stanadyne, PowerService, etc. I think that's a bit of a stretch; if that were a direct benefit, I'm sure they'd all claim it.)

* You run T-6 and bypass FS2500, but still OCI at 5k miles?

* Do you do UOAs?


1. 10W-30's are a bit better than 15W-40's, but are not as good as the synthetics when it is real cold (sub-zero temperatures). I live in Fallon, but my truck is not always operated in Fallon. There are areas I frequent in Northern Nevada where temperatures can be much coolder than the average temperature you claim for Fallon. Most of my friends also have Ford PSD's of various years so I am able to make various observations of their operation in cold weather. I have seen temp's as low as 22 below zero on hunting trips.

2. I did not say anything was wrong with a 30 grade.

3. I have heard and read that 10w-30's don't shear as much as the 5W-40's, but I personally don't have any experience with them in my truck so I can't really speak or make any recommendations.

4. I just recently changed my EGR valve ( for the first time about 4k miles ago) and was surprised at how clean it and the intake manifold was. This has been a troublesome area for many 6.0 PSD engines and I attribute the fact that mine was so clean and troublefree to the use of the Stanadyne. I changed the valve out because my curiosity got the best of me...I kept it for a spare in case I should ever find the need. Stanadyne claims that their product improves combustion and reduces soot...I think that leads to a cleaner EGR system in my truck.

5. Yes I run T6 now, and have used whatever version of Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 was in production at the time. I have even used the Mobil 1 TDT for a short while when it was at a better price than the Rotella. I also have the FS2500...and I still stick to the 5k oil change interval. I was not looking to extend the oil change interval when I bought the FS2500, I wanted the improved filtration. You might deem this as unnecessary, but that is what I choose to do.

6. I have used Blackstone Labs for both Used and Virgin Oil analysis, but I don't have any recent reports. I still have an account with them and should probably take advantage of them. After I became comfortable with my engine's wear numbers I got out of the habit of sending in samples. I was doing it mainly for waranty concerns.

I think I prefaced my earlier post with the statement that all my information was really a "recommendation", and they are not absolute. You probably will not agree with all my methods but they have worked for me, and I have been able to make observations of other trucks similar to mine operating in similar conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: rufushusky
Originally Posted By: dnewton3}\


* How in the world will fuel treatment keep the EGR clean? (I've never seen that claim from any of the major fuel treatment makers such as Howes, Stanadyne, PowerService, etc. I think that's a bit of a stretch; if that were a direct benefit, I'm sure they'd all claim it.)



Only way to keep the EGR clean is to actually clean it.


Not true in my case. My EGR valve was cleaner than others that only had about a quarter of the miles on them. Mine was functioning well at the time I replaced it.
 
I don't know about diesel engines but two years ago I had emission-control-sytems problems (primarily a bad thermostatic vacuum-switching valve) and I found out that my EGR valve was completely plugged with half-inch-thick rock-hard carbon deposits. I cleaned it with a screwdriver and brake-cleaner solvent. It was as good as new afterwards (tested using vacuum and compressed air). I had to change my EGR vacuum modulator though, which had a torn diaphragm, apparently a common problem.

The intake manifold was as clean as it could be though. For some reason the carbon deposits only accumulated in the EGR valve.
 
Two words (okay one word and one acronym): EGR delete. You'll have a one million mile engine if you do this. By doing this you will save the environment by not sending all that iron to the scrap yard to be melted.
 
Call the dealer. They will recommend heavy duty 10W30 with an exception for severe duty towing, 15w40.
 
I just acquired a 2006 Ford F350 TD 6.0L. The manual states that Ford "prefers" 10W-30 below 50F and 15W-40 above 50F. In any case, Rotella T5 10W-30 syn-blend looks like some hearty stuff and has a listed pour point of -42F, rivaling most full synthetics for passenger cars...
 
Just an FYI to the new 6.0L owner - Ford issued a TSB recommending 5W40 from -20*F to over 100*F.
 
I appreciate that bismic1, do Ford dealerships offer a 5W-40 like Rotella or TDT? I know I've seen Motorcraft 15W-40 around...

*edit I see they do.
 
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I don't know about newer, lower-mileage 6.0s-but at 232K my '04 doesn't like to start cold in general, and there is a BIG difference below 20F (unplugged) starting between 10W30 dino and 5W40 synthetic. In my case, probably the only thing I drive regularly that HAS to have synthetic. On the one occasion that the Ford dealer changed the oil (when it didn't need it & I had told them not to do it) & left it outside overnight in winter w/15W40 dino-it chugged like a Briggs & Stratton and filled the parking lot with gray unburned fuel smoke!
 
I read all these posts and all I can do is CRINGE! I, VERY UNFORTUNATELY, was the owner of a 2006 6.0L PSD. I had every problem known to man with this thing.
Oil cooler went out, EGR cooler went out, blew the headgaskets, terrible cold morning starts when it got down into the 40's, several computer re-flashes.

I simply could not keep the JUNK out of the shop. Paid more $100 deductibles than I could keep track of. Finally I let her go and MY GOD am I glad I did. I was desperate to get my 2001 5.4L triton F150 back that only hiccuped on me once, and that was my #4 coil pack which was an easy, quick fix. I unfortunately sold it to my wife's grandfather, and couldn't buy it back.

I was honestly BLESSED when I stumbled across my 2002 7.3L PSD with 41k miles. It only stayed on the lot 2 days and I just got lucky. I got 15k my worthless 6.0L with 96k miles on it(God bless the poor soul who bought it, if anyone did) and paid 19,200 for the 2002 black supercrew 7.3L Lariat that came with Firestone Ride Rite bags, an extra 40 gallon diesel tank, 5th wheel rails, and the full system for trailer brakes.

Regarding the 6.0L, I had a coolant filter, used ONLY motorcraft fuel and oil filters, Motorcraft 15w-40, but I could not afford the full EGR delete and ARP stud job, which is nearly a necessity. I treated her right and only pulled a handful of times with it.

I can hear the sound of a 6.0L a mile away. That old familiar clatter. Sounds much different than the 7.3L PSD and the 5.9 cummins. When I hear it, I automatically think back to that HUNK OF GARBAGE i owned, and I feel sorry for the poor soul who owns it.

I don't care if you make it "bulletproof" by doing a full EGR delete, ARP aftermarket high tensile strength head studs, coolant filter, etc, it is still a piece of garbage. And NO TRUCK should have to have 3-4 THOUSAND dollars worth of work done to it to make it a decent reliable truck.

However, I do miss (barely) the extra power of the 6.0L, and the turbo whistle.

My best advice is to get rid of it! Or if you can't, go ahead and drop the necessary funds on a FULL EGR delete and the ARP studs.

BTW, Motorcraft 15w-40 should be fine for the summer, and Rotella T6 for the winter.
 
My finacee has a 2003 Ford Super Duty with the 6.0 diesel and she has used 10W-30 Motorcraft diesel oil since it was new. Truck now has about 75,000 miles on it and no problems.

Wayne
 
The 6.0 wasn't a bad engine, although it did have some growing pains. Sounds like you got very unlucky and had every possible problem a 6.0 can have.
 
Thats the ironic tale of the 6.0, you hear horror stories like above and assume they were all bad. I'm on my second one, both trouble-free, with my current ('07) at 131,xxx trouble-free miles. The '04 was trouble-free also, I think it was at 100,000 mi. when I traded it in on my '07.

Since 90,000 mi. I have been using 10w-30 dino exclusively year around with very good UOA's at 7,500 mi OCI's. Synthetic oil is not required in this engine as many will claim, I'm sure it doesn't hurt anything either, other than your wallet.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
I don't know about newer, lower-mileage 6.0s-but at 232K my '04 doesn't like to start cold in general, and there is a BIG difference below 20F (unplugged) starting between 10W30 dino and 5W40 synthetic. In my case, probably the only thing I drive regularly that HAS to have synthetic. On the one occasion that the Ford dealer changed the oil (when it didn't need it & I had told them not to do it) & left it outside overnight in winter w/15W40 dino-it chugged like a Briggs & Stratton and filled the parking lot with gray unburned fuel smoke!


Have you tested the voltage on your FICM lately? I fixed a neighbors 6.0 PSD last winter that would NOT start without it being plugged in all night and then it would hardly start then. Did the HOT FICM mod and switched to T6 and it starts very fast just like a new truck again.
 
Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
Thats the ironic tale of the 6.0, you hear horror stories like above and assume they were all bad. I'm on my second one, both trouble-free, with my current ('07) at 131,xxx trouble-free miles. The '04 was trouble-free also, I think it was at 100,000 mi. when I traded it in on my '07.

Since 90,000 mi. I have been using 10w-30 dino exclusively year around with very good UOA's at 7,500 mi OCI's. Synthetic oil is not required in this engine as many will claim, I'm sure it doesn't hurt anything either, other than your wallet.

Probably wouldn't take one if it was GIVEN to me.
 
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob
I read all these posts and all I can do is CRINGE! I, VERY UNFORTUNATELY, was the owner of a 2006 6.0L PSD. I had every problem known to man with this thing.
Oil cooler went out, EGR cooler went out, blew the headgaskets, terrible cold morning starts when it got down into the 40's, several computer re-flashes.

I simply could not keep the JUNK out of the shop. Paid more $100 deductibles than I could keep track of. Finally I let her go and MY GOD am I glad I did. I was desperate to get my 2001 5.4L triton F150 back that only hiccuped on me once, and that was my #4 coil pack which was an easy, quick fix. I unfortunately sold it to my wife's grandfather, and couldn't buy it back.

I was honestly BLESSED when I stumbled across my 2002 7.3L PSD with 41k miles. It only stayed on the lot 2 days and I just got lucky. I got 15k my worthless 6.0L with 96k miles on it(God bless the poor soul who bought it, if anyone did) and paid 19,200 for the 2002 black supercrew 7.3L Lariat that came with Firestone Ride Rite bags, an extra 40 gallon diesel tank, 5th wheel rails, and the full system for trailer brakes.

Regarding the 6.0L, I had a coolant filter, used ONLY motorcraft fuel and oil filters, Motorcraft 15w-40, but I could not afford the full EGR delete and ARP stud job, which is nearly a necessity. I treated her right and only pulled a handful of times with it.

I can hear the sound of a 6.0L a mile away. That old familiar clatter. Sounds much different than the 7.3L PSD and the 5.9 cummins. When I hear it, I automatically think back to that HUNK OF GARBAGE i owned, and I feel sorry for the poor soul who owns it.

I don't care if you make it "bulletproof" by doing a full EGR delete, ARP aftermarket high tensile strength head studs, coolant filter, etc, it is still a piece of garbage. And NO TRUCK should have to have 3-4 THOUSAND dollars worth of work done to it to make it a decent reliable truck.

However, I do miss (barely) the extra power of the 6.0L, and the turbo whistle.

My best advice is to get rid of it! Or if you can't, go ahead and drop the necessary funds on a FULL EGR delete and the ARP studs.

BTW, Motorcraft 15w-40 should be fine for the summer, and Rotella T6 for the winter.


Sorry about the bad experience, but I can see the problem. This 6.0 was driven gently and many owners were under impression that they were doing the engine a favor. On the contrary it's the engines that are babied that have problems.

This isn't to say Ford isn't without blame. Ford tuned the engines hotter than International did which made it drive around fine as a street vehicle without much throttle. Find a basket case 6.0 and the story is almost always "I didn't drive it hard and rarely or never towed anything with it" and the owner doesn't understand why it's failing. On the flip side medium and heavy duty international equipment and school buses didn't have the rate of problems that the Ford light duty trucks did (yes even an F450 is still a light duty truck at GVWR 14,000; the International 4200 is a medium duty truck GVWR 26,000 - 31,000 by comparison) but the engines in those International were pedal to the floor constantly and average 375,000 miles before overhaul.

Ford also put [censored] coolant in these engines and that coolant caused a lot of problems, particularly with the oil cooler which would then have a cascading effect of nuking the EGR cooler followed by the headgaskets.

Studs are not required for reliability, and neither is oil or egr cooler replacement if the engine is run under high load regularly and good coolant is used and maintained. If the vehicle is really a no/low load mall crawler or highway cruiser that's when I'd suggest a bulletproofed/deleted EGR and a high flow (less efficient) oil cooler or redesigned oil cooler. If you're going to take power beyond stock then studs are recommended but power and reliability have always been on opposite ends of the table.
 
Originally Posted By: Seijirou
Originally Posted By: FiremarshalRob
I read all these posts and all I can do is CRINGE! I, VERY UNFORTUNATELY, was the owner of a 2006 6.0L PSD. I had every problem known to man with this thing.
Oil cooler went out, EGR cooler went out, blew the headgaskets, terrible cold morning starts when it got down into the 40's, several computer re-flashes.

I simply could not keep the JUNK out of the shop. Paid more $100 deductibles than I could keep track of. Finally I let her go and MY GOD am I glad I did. I was desperate to get my 2001 5.4L triton F150 back that only hiccuped on me once, and that was my #4 coil pack which was an easy, quick fix. I unfortunately sold it to my wife's grandfather, and couldn't buy it back.

I was honestly BLESSED when I stumbled across my 2002 7.3L PSD with 41k miles. It only stayed on the lot 2 days and I just got lucky. I got 15k my worthless 6.0L with 96k miles on it(God bless the poor soul who bought it, if anyone did) and paid 19,200 for the 2002 black supercrew 7.3L Lariat that came with Firestone Ride Rite bags, an extra 40 gallon diesel tank, 5th wheel rails, and the full system for trailer brakes.

Regarding the 6.0L, I had a coolant filter, used ONLY motorcraft fuel and oil filters, Motorcraft 15w-40, but I could not afford the full EGR delete and ARP stud job, which is nearly a necessity. I treated her right and only pulled a handful of times with it.

I can hear the sound of a 6.0L a mile away. That old familiar clatter. Sounds much different than the 7.3L PSD and the 5.9 cummins. When I hear it, I automatically think back to that HUNK OF GARBAGE i owned, and I feel sorry for the poor soul who owns it.

I don't care if you make it "bulletproof" by doing a full EGR delete, ARP aftermarket high tensile strength head studs, coolant filter, etc, it is still a piece of garbage. And NO TRUCK should have to have 3-4 THOUSAND dollars worth of work done to it to make it a decent reliable truck.

However, I do miss (barely) the extra power of the 6.0L, and the turbo whistle.

My best advice is to get rid of it! Or if you can't, go ahead and drop the necessary funds on a FULL EGR delete and the ARP studs.

BTW, Motorcraft 15w-40 should be fine for the summer, and Rotella T6 for the winter.


Sorry about the bad experience, but I can see the problem. This 6.0 was driven gently and many owners were under impression that they were doing the engine a favor. On the contrary it's the engines that are babied that have problems.

This isn't to say Ford isn't without blame. Ford tuned the engines hotter than International did which made it drive around fine as a street vehicle without much throttle. Find a basket case 6.0 and the story is almost always "I didn't drive it hard and rarely or never towed anything with it" and the owner doesn't understand why it's failing. On the flip side medium and heavy duty international equipment and school buses didn't have the rate of problems that the Ford light duty trucks did (yes even an F450 is still a light duty truck at GVWR 14,000; the International 4200 is a medium duty truck GVWR 26,000 - 31,000 by comparison) but the engines in those International were pedal to the floor constantly and average 375,000 miles before overhaul.

Ford also put [censored] coolant in these engines and that coolant caused a lot of problems, particularly with the oil cooler which would then have a cascading effect of nuking the EGR cooler followed by the headgaskets.

Studs are not required for reliability, and neither is oil or egr cooler replacement if the engine is run under high load regularly and good coolant is used and maintained. If the vehicle is really a no/low load mall crawler or highway cruiser that's when I'd suggest a bulletproofed/deleted EGR and a high flow (less efficient) oil cooler or redesigned oil cooler. If you're going to take power beyond stock then studs are recommended but power and reliability have always been on opposite ends of the table.


This is spot on! The 6.0 wasn't a bad motor at all IF it gets worked!!! Too many wannabe cowboys bought these things and drove them to the mall and daily commuted with them is what caused most of the issues! Do the EGR delete (never should've been on a diesel anyway) put the good Coolant in them (ELC CAT rated stuff) and work the truck like it was meant to be! I had a ford tech tell me years ago with our company truck (a 2006 F350) to drive it like you stole it a couple times a month and it wouldn't have near the issues most people see.

Great motors, yea they had their issues but find a diesel from anyone else that didn't...
 
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