My brother-in-law gets a new company car every 2 years. The past 4 cars were all picked up in Chicago brand new, and then driven the eight hours or so west on I-94 to the Twin Cities, where he lives. Criminy, by the time the first month is gone he probably has 2000 to 3000 miles on them. None of the 4 cars has ever burned a drop of oil when turned in or sold with 60k to 70k miles on them. I can verify this because I bought 2 of them. 2 of them were Chevy's, the other 2 were Ford's. It doesn't seem to make much difference how they are driven new.
Breaking in a new car via a long-distance drive.
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Thanks to everybody for the quick and thorough responses...this is the exact reason why you come to BITOG for help.
The first 20-30 miles of driving will be city driving and stop & go highway (I-5, Seattle), the rest will be pretty much quiet interstate (I-90E). With the cruise control off, the climb/descent of Snoqualmie Pass and being conscious of varying my speed/RPMs, I think it's all I can do.
That said, is it necessary to bed in the pads/rotors on a new car? I've never given it much thought on previous car purchases, only when doing a brake job.
M_C
The first 20-30 miles of driving will be city driving and stop & go highway (I-5, Seattle), the rest will be pretty much quiet interstate (I-90E). With the cruise control off, the climb/descent of Snoqualmie Pass and being conscious of varying my speed/RPMs, I think it's all I can do.
That said, is it necessary to bed in the pads/rotors on a new car? I've never given it much thought on previous car purchases, only when doing a brake job.
M_C
Pulled from the Owner's Manual of my 2003 Mazda Protege5
Quote:
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
• Don’t race the engine.
• Don’t maintain one constant speed for long.
• Don’t drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
• Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
• Avoid full-throttle starts.
Since I just had the engine rebuilt, I'm breaking in the engine for the first couple of tanks of fuel.
My mechanic suggested changing the oil and filter after 500-1000 miles, so I'll probably do that at about 600 miles, and again 2400 miles after that.
Quote:
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
• Don’t race the engine.
• Don’t maintain one constant speed for long.
• Don’t drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
• Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
• Avoid full-throttle starts.
Since I just had the engine rebuilt, I'm breaking in the engine for the first couple of tanks of fuel.
My mechanic suggested changing the oil and filter after 500-1000 miles, so I'll probably do that at about 600 miles, and again 2400 miles after that.
I bought my 2006 Toyota Camry V6 from Los Angeles. I drove back to San Francisco. I drove the speed from 60 to 65 MPH. My camry is now 220,000 miles. Toyota are very reliable as you know.
I am sure you will not have a problem with your break in process. But I can't guarantee your mazda will make it to 200,000 miles.
good luck.
I am sure you will not have a problem with your break in process. But I can't guarantee your mazda will make it to 200,000 miles.
good luck.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
What miracle occurs when you vary RPM?
Just drive it.
Something about seating the rings.It supposedly works better that way than a constant speed. idk
I seriously doubt that the rings in a modern factory installed engine need seating. I know that at least some car manufacturers have every engine running on a test stand before the engine is installed.
The reason for frequently varying the RPM during break-in has to do with establishing the best possible wear pattern on the cylinder walls. Let's say you break the engine in by driving 2,200 RPM for 2k miles. What do you expect to happen? A tiny notch will form in the cylinder wall. Higher engine RPM results in the rods stretching more, and notch formation is avoided. For all practical differences, it may not make a big or even noticeable difference how an engine was broken.
Cars that have been driven at only low RPM all their lives often suffer broken rings when driven hard by a new owner.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
What miracle occurs when you vary RPM?
Just drive it.
Something about seating the rings.It supposedly works better that way than a constant speed. idk
I seriously doubt that the rings in a modern factory installed engine need seating. I know that at least some car manufacturers have every engine running on a test stand before the engine is installed.
The reason for frequently varying the RPM during break-in has to do with establishing the best possible wear pattern on the cylinder walls. Let's say you break the engine in by driving 2,200 RPM for 2k miles. What do you expect to happen? A tiny notch will form in the cylinder wall. Higher engine RPM results in the rods stretching more, and notch formation is avoided. For all practical differences, it may not make a big or even noticeable difference how an engine was broken.
Cars that have been driven at only low RPM all their lives often suffer broken rings when driven hard by a new owner.
Originally Posted By: punisher
I am in the "it doesn't matter" camp.
Moly rings, extremely fine cylinder wall finishes, running the engine on a CNG test stand, then running the engine in the car at the factory, running the car at the dealership while getting it off the transport, MPDI, APDI.............. that engine is 99.9% broken in when you get the keys the first time.
+1
Also, on certain cars it may be difficult to vary the RPM. I tried varying the RPM during break-in on our CVT-equipped Altima V6-- no luck. The CVT kept the RPM within 1-200 rpm even when you tried varying speeds.
I am in the "it doesn't matter" camp.
Moly rings, extremely fine cylinder wall finishes, running the engine on a CNG test stand, then running the engine in the car at the factory, running the car at the dealership while getting it off the transport, MPDI, APDI.............. that engine is 99.9% broken in when you get the keys the first time.
+1
Also, on certain cars it may be difficult to vary the RPM. I tried varying the RPM during break-in on our CVT-equipped Altima V6-- no luck. The CVT kept the RPM within 1-200 rpm even when you tried varying speeds.
Even though it might have been run on a stand, and broken in by the lot boy, I'm still old school. As already mentioned I would try and vary speeds, make certain the engine is up to operating temps and get on it a little as well. What I would also do is drain the oil after the first 500 miles. Many people disagree but when you see UOA reports from new engines and the higher levels of wear metals I for one would want that junk out early. Next new car I buy the oil is coming out as soon as I get home from the dealer. Flame suit on.
Originally Posted By: Volvo_ST1
The reason for frequently varying the RPM during break-in has to do with establishing the best possible wear pattern on the cylinder walls. Let's say you break the engine in by driving 2,200 RPM for 2k miles. What do you expect to happen? A tiny notch will form in the cylinder wall. Higher engine RPM results in the rods stretching more, and notch formation is avoided.
By that logic, you should never drive a car at a constant rpm. Right?
The reason for frequently varying the RPM during break-in has to do with establishing the best possible wear pattern on the cylinder walls. Let's say you break the engine in by driving 2,200 RPM for 2k miles. What do you expect to happen? A tiny notch will form in the cylinder wall. Higher engine RPM results in the rods stretching more, and notch formation is avoided.
By that logic, you should never drive a car at a constant rpm. Right?
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I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just vary your cruise every 50 mi or so. Keep the RPMs well under redline during acceleration, and you'll be fine. For 250 mi, I would have rented a car to drive there.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Also, on certain cars it may be difficult to vary the RPM. I tried varying the RPM during break-in on our CVT-equipped Altima V6-- no luck. The CVT kept the RPM within 1-200 rpm even when you tried varying speeds.
You must not have tried to use the manual mode that comes with that CVT transmission, did you? Shifts just like a normal transmission car in manual mode, just that its up to you to decide when to shift gears.
BC.
Also, on certain cars it may be difficult to vary the RPM. I tried varying the RPM during break-in on our CVT-equipped Altima V6-- no luck. The CVT kept the RPM within 1-200 rpm even when you tried varying speeds.
You must not have tried to use the manual mode that comes with that CVT transmission, did you? Shifts just like a normal transmission car in manual mode, just that its up to you to decide when to shift gears.
BC.
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I bought my 2006 Toyota Camry V6 from Los Angeles. I drove back to San Francisco. I drove the speed from 60 to 65 MPH. My camry is now 220,000 miles. Toyota are very reliable as you know.
I am sure you will not have a problem with your break in process. But I can't guarantee your mazda will make it to 200,000 miles.
good luck.
220,000 miles in 5 years? It has to be mostly long freeway trips. That's very easy on cars. I would be surprised if any modern car cannot make it.
I bought my 2006 Toyota Camry V6 from Los Angeles. I drove back to San Francisco. I drove the speed from 60 to 65 MPH. My camry is now 220,000 miles. Toyota are very reliable as you know.
I am sure you will not have a problem with your break in process. But I can't guarantee your mazda will make it to 200,000 miles.
good luck.
220,000 miles in 5 years? It has to be mostly long freeway trips. That's very easy on cars. I would be surprised if any modern car cannot make it.
Originally Posted By: Volvo_ST1
..... I know that at least some car manufacturers have every engine running on a test stand before the engine is installed.
Which manufacturers follow this practice? Are you talking of dry runs without fuel to test for pressure leaks?
..... I know that at least some car manufacturers have every engine running on a test stand before the engine is installed.
Which manufacturers follow this practice? Are you talking of dry runs without fuel to test for pressure leaks?
I drove a new 2002 Chevy Cavalier 450 miles at 70 mph constantly when I first bought it, and still have the car and it still doesn't use any oil. Sometimes I go almost 5,000 miles between changes, and it's still on full. Just drive it. It didn't make any difference with my car.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Mustang_Cougar
That said, is it necessary to bed in the pads/rotors on a new car? I've never given it much thought on previous car purchases, only when doing a brake job.
I really don't think bedding in the brakes is all that beneficial on a street driven car. In the past I've always done all of those crazy bedding in procedures and for my most recent brake job (two years ago) I didn't bother, I just drove the car exactly how I normally do. There is no difference that I can tell between the set of brakes I have now and my previous ones where I did the bedding in procedure.
That said, is it necessary to bed in the pads/rotors on a new car? I've never given it much thought on previous car purchases, only when doing a brake job.
I really don't think bedding in the brakes is all that beneficial on a street driven car. In the past I've always done all of those crazy bedding in procedures and for my most recent brake job (two years ago) I didn't bother, I just drove the car exactly how I normally do. There is no difference that I can tell between the set of brakes I have now and my previous ones where I did the bedding in procedure.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I am sure you will not have a problem with your break in process. But I can't guarantee your mazda will make it to 200,000 miles.
That's a crazy thing to say because I don't think there is a single car built today that CAN'T easily make it to 200k on the original engine unless the owner completely abuses it (like never changing the oil)
I am sure you will not have a problem with your break in process. But I can't guarantee your mazda will make it to 200,000 miles.
That's a crazy thing to say because I don't think there is a single car built today that CAN'T easily make it to 200k on the original engine unless the owner completely abuses it (like never changing the oil)
hi hhu,
Yeap. it is mostly highway 97% of the time. I bought that camry v6 from Wondries Toyota in Alhambra.. I think it was only $20,000 plus tax.. Thats the best investment I ever made. My camry v6 never broke down on me, and super less maintance.
yes so in the future, I will buy another toyota camry v6.
Yeap. it is mostly highway 97% of the time. I bought that camry v6 from Wondries Toyota in Alhambra.. I think it was only $20,000 plus tax.. Thats the best investment I ever made. My camry v6 never broke down on me, and super less maintance.
yes so in the future, I will buy another toyota camry v6.
Originally Posted By: Patman
That's a crazy thing to say because I don't think there is a single car built today that CAN'T easily make it to 200k on the original engine unless the owner completely abuses it (like never changing the oil)
That may be true, but you can't guarantee it.
That's a crazy thing to say because I don't think there is a single car built today that CAN'T easily make it to 200k on the original engine unless the owner completely abuses it (like never changing the oil)
That may be true, but you can't guarantee it.
No one can guarantee anything on a mass produced vehicle. It's always a bit of a [censored], but then again cars are WAYYYY more consistent than in the 'old daze'.
While I don't recommend highway break in miles, it's important to note that the process is more than likely already completed before you even bought the car.
And a final note, almost every car manufacturer drives their car off the end of the assembly line, but almost none dyno ALL the engines first.
While I don't recommend highway break in miles, it's important to note that the process is more than likely already completed before you even bought the car.
And a final note, almost every car manufacturer drives their car off the end of the assembly line, but almost none dyno ALL the engines first.
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