Matrix oil filter removal

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Just can't get the filter housing to budge!
Car is a 2009, new to me.
Yes I know there is a clip, it's not preventing it turning.
I have the socket/ graphite tool, it just slips off under torque.
Tried a loop of rope and a bar, but at about 80 foot lbs I just gave up for fear of breaking something.
Any Ideas?
 
I would break down and take it in to a reputable mechanic, watch them do the job and make sure they DON'T torque it back on. The problem with the screw driver is if it doesn't work you are (forgive the pun) screwed. Take it to a professional.
 
Sometimes it helps to actually turn it the tightening way first -I am talking BARELY. It helps to break it free.

I was in the same boat with my filter - I just rocked it back and forth-

Also, I used sand paper to give me grip- did it by hand. I can never work the oil filter tools right...
 
I used sandpaper under a loop of rope (to stop the rope slipping) and a 16" bar as a lever. As I said, about 80 ft lbs would not move it.
I guess it goes to the Dealer tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
I used sandpaper under a loop of rope (to stop the rope slipping) and a 16" bar as a lever. As I said, about 80 ft lbs would not move it.
I guess it goes to the Dealer tomorrow.

I sure hope that at the dealer, the guy doing the oil change doesn't overtighten things. If that happens, you still will not get that cartridge filter off.
 
I have given the wife instructions to ask what torque it should be tightened to.
I previously asked them about the tool to remove it, they said "We used to use Vise Grips, but now we have the proper wrench (cap socket) from Snap-on"
I really think this is a stupid system. Were the old cans really that bad?
 
The torque values speced for the canister housing on our Toyota Sienna are lower than you would think (18 ft/lbs for the canister and 10 ft/lbs for the canister drain plug). The problem is when the professional goober changing the oil cranks this housing down gorilla tight. Then you need the properly sized cup wrench and a breaker bar to get the thing off.
 
The Latest>>>>>>Toyota dealer says it been overtightened, if they remove it, it will be at my risk (estimate of damage, up to $900).
I'm trying to find out from the PO WHO did the last oil change, but I don't hold much hope that they will man-up and address the issue.
So, If I set about removing the housing myself, what would be the best approach (starting with the least destructive)
 
Originally Posted By: expat
So, If I set about removing the housing myself, what would be the best approach (starting with the least destructive)


1) Screwdriver through the filter. Should work. Of course, make sure that you have a replacement filter on hand.
2) The metal cap wrenches grip better than the graphite ones. Might want to try one of those.
3) Take a (thin) rag, put it over the filter, then lightly hammer the graphite cap wrench over the filter. Then try to remove it.
4) Big a$$ pipe wrench near the base of the filter?

Good luck!
 
I would have said that too... This car's filter is a cartridge, not a spin-on can though... ARRG.

Glad all my cars have spin-ons...
 
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The only thing I can think of is to hose off the filter housing with a penetrating oil and wait a few minutes. If it dosent budge hose it down again and wait some more.

My favorite penetrating oil is Kroil, however I have had luck with other brands in the past also.

Hose it down while it is warm, be careful if it is hot, and just wait for things to cool down. It should pull more penetrating oil into the threads as it cools.

From what I remember it might hurt the gaskets, but those should be in the box with the new filter.

Good luck, and keep us informed.
 
Do you have a worksheet for the O.C.? If you do it may have the name of the tech on it . Some also have a number for the person who performed it . Good luck .
 
I now have a metal cap wrench that fits a little better(deeper)
I have cleaned the housing cap and will attempt to epoxy the cap wrench to the filter housing (If I get the housing off, it may as well stay on there) If it cams off again, I'm back to square one.
 
Good idea in epoxy the metal cap wrench to the filter housing and let it dry for few hours, and leave the cap wrench on the filter housing after you remove it to change the filter for the next filter change.
 
If you have the room in the metal cap wrench, wrap some wet/dry sandpaper around the filter housing to give a better grip on it. It may save you using the epoxy.

Ed
 
I had previously tried sandpaper, it just chewed-up the housing, hence the epoxy. Tide to remove the housing tonight, the KD wrench driving Lug broke at it's spot welds at some ware north of 100 ft lbs.
Will Beef up the wrench tomorrow with weld, and try again.
 
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