Oil advice for a 17 year old car

[s1mp13m4n]

Hello everyone. I am here to ask advice about oil for my 17 year old car. Here is what I have:

1994 Ford Escort LX
1.9L 4cyl
180000 miles on it
does not leak, burn oil, but has white smoke now and then from tailpipe
Spark plugs when changed were white/ashy

The owners manual says to use 5w-30 or 10w-30 in the car. I am using 10w-30. I change the oil @ 3 months as it is not driven enough to get to 3000 miles in 3 months. The car is driven on short trips with 1-2 1000 miles trips a year on the car. I have been using autoparts store oil change specials on the car with various brands and filters used based on what is on sale. I have also been using Sam's Club Certified brand oil as it is about $22 a case. I have also been using STP oil treatment in the car each oil change. My goals are to make the car last as long as I can as it is a good car and my wife and I like it.
I have tried synthetic oil in the car but for some reason that I do not understand the car will use oil. I have tried Walmart Super Tech and Amsoil, and both times the car will use oil. I went back to conventional oil and it does not use oil now. My goals are:

bang for the buck
quality oil for the money
brand name is not important to me
to keep the car going until we can replace it


I sent an email to STP asking about their oil treatment and they basically told me that the products when added to 4 quarts of oil will not change viscosity. They said the product is adding ZDDP (zinc) back to the oil which was cut back due to EPA issues in modern oil. They said that use of the additive will not harm my car and did not confirm anything else.
I just want to car to be cared for and taken car of and to last as long as it can. I understand that there is no best oil out there and that everyone has opinions on what to use and not use. Thanks for the help.

 

[Quest]

use 10W30

 

[addyguy]

Escort 1.9's sometimes had problems with leaky/blown head gaskets - are you loosing coolant? Check this carefully first.

Just keep doing what works best - cheap dino 10W-30, but move your intervals to 6 months or 5k miles, whatever comes first. If you do less that 3k in 3 months, you'll prolly hit right on 5k at 5-6 months.

Oh, and you don't need the STP - it won't do anything really, other than cost you money!

 

[scurvy]

Try Rotella 10w30. Astoundingly cheap in the white one gallon jug, typically available at Wall-of-China Mart and most FLAPS. You might even consider any off-the-shelf 15w40 as well for summer months.

Otherwise I'd use whatever store brand 10w30 is on sale when it's time for a change. Even if this means keeping an extra quart or two in the back to top it up, it's likely cheaper per mile. White (blue) smoke from the tailpipe probably means your valve seals are leaking a bit of oil if it happens on startup or rings are leaking a bit if it happens on acceleration. Any of the 'high mileage' formulations typically have seal conditioners to help swell seals back and help prevent leaks. If it truly is white smoke and your coolant level is dropping, it's the headgasket. I'd fix that ASAP if it turns out to be the case lest you hydrolock the engine.

Sam's Club brand Certified oil is also an excellent choice. IMO not worth the bother for synthetic oil in this vintage car, modern mineral oils are excellent lubricants.

Don't use STP, Lucas, Motor Honey or any of the other miracle snot. Spend that money on cheap oil instead.

 

[s1mp13m4n]

The car is not losing coolant and the head gasket was done two years ago when the timing belt was replaced. The car two years ago broke the metal plate that holds a roller lifter in place, thus wiping the cam, so all that was replaced. This puff of white smoke happens at cold startup after sitting overnight or if the car has been idling on a hot day in traffic for say 10min. It is just a puff that is hard to see, not a cloud.

 

[qdeezie]

Try a 10w-30 high mileage motor oil. Regarding the ZDDP concerns, if your engine is stock (which it appears to be), you will be ok without the additives. I drive a truck with a stock flat tappet camshaft and have driven it on road trips well over 2,000 miles total and haven't screwed up anything yet. Leave the additives alone. The ZDDP concerns are for engines with flat tappet camshafts with an extremely high lift. Your Escort doesn't fit this category.

Truth be told, I'm a fan of Supertech High Mileage oil, but there are other High Mileage oils out there that are good (or more than likely, better) as well.

 

[lewdwig]

Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Try a 10w-30 high mileage motor oil.


+1

 

[Hollow]

I'd go with Valvoline Maxlife or Pennzoil HM in 10w30 for 6 months or 5k, whichever comes first.

 

[s1mp13m4n]

Thank you all very much for the help and advice. I just got done doing an oil change on my mothers 2004 Pontiac Vibe. I enjoy doing basic car care, I find it fun and relaxing.

 

[fdcg27]

If this thing is running well at 17 yrs and 180K, and isn't using either coolant or oil, I'd say that whatever you've been doing has worked pretty well.
Any 10W-30 should be fine for this engine in your climate.
A little smoke now and then is not cause for concern, unless you are seeing other symptoms of head gasket failure.
This is possible even if the HG was replaced, if it was not done meticulously.
Anyway, if you aren't losing coolant or oil, the HG is probably fine, and you should just continue along the path that has brought this old workhorse to this point.

 

[kasedian]

 

[Best F100]

There is a guy on this forum named Fsskier (from Iowa I believe).

He has a '94 Ford Escort that had 270,000 miles on it as of mid 2010. He started out using Mobil 1 5W20 during the warranty period. From there until now, it got notting but Mobil 1 0W20. The part that got my attention, was all his oil change intervals were every 20K miles.

He was telling me via private message, that he has a Lumina ATV with the 3.1 L engine. Although it is rated for pulling 2000 lb loads, he pulls a 5000 lb, 20 ft, Hydrodyne at least 4 times/week. Sometimes up to 700 miles on a trip during the summer. This one had over 300,000 miles - as of last summer. Again, using only Mobil 1 0W20.

That my friend is real world testing.

 

[s1mp13m4n]

I am unsure of my cars past. It was given to me back in 1997 so I have had it for 4 years now. I have just been changing the oil in it every 3 months or 3K miles whatever comes first and using autopart store oil change specials in it each time....not sticking with one brand each time. Right now it has Peak oil and a Puralator filter in it with STP oil treatment. It was a $10 oil change after rebate. I think that I am learning that it really does not matter what you use. What matters is that you drive the car sensibly and change you oil like you should.

 

[EchoThat]

It's a funny thing. When I look into stuff, I usually find that I was already doing and believing the things that wound up being the truth. Figuring out the "what is the best oil for me" question is another example of that full circle.

I have an average Toyota and an average Nissan. Each car has about 170k trouble free miles. Surely, finding the right oil for these cars, and all other average cars like them, can't require that I climb a mountain in Tibet to get answers.

Oil is oil. I use the right weight. Change it when it should be changed. I look for leaks.

This will be my last visit to this site.

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: s1mp13m4n
I am unsure of my cars past. It was given to me back in 1997 so I have had it for 4 years now. I have just been changing the oil in it every 3 months or 3K miles whatever comes first and using autopart store oil change specials in it each time....not sticking with one brand each time. Right now it has Peak oil and a Puralator filter in it with STP oil treatment. It was a $10 oil change after rebate. I think that I am learning that it really does not matter what you use. What matters is that you drive the car sensibly and change you oil like you should.


You got it.

 

[s1mp13m4n]

I do need to make a change here...I made a mistake and said the car was given to me in 1997....I ment 2007, doh. How could I oned the car 4 years if it were given to me in 1997? LOL I just had to clear that up. Now the next project on the car is having the A/C system fixed in the car. I have all new parts, just waiting for my autotech cousin to get off his butt and fix it. LOL

 

[s1mp13m4n]

I have another question then, does it really matter what oil filter that you use....as long as it is a quality filter and you change it when you change your oil? I ask because you see Fram getting knocked around a lot due to poorly made units. I am using a Puralator right now.

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: s1mp13m4n
I have another question then, does it really matter what oil filter that you use....as long as it is a quality filter and you change it when you change your oil? I ask because you see Fram getting knocked around a lot due to poorly made units. I am using a Puralator right now.


no, it doesn't.

Frams are just fine filters...lot of stupidity around here about Frams....

 

[s1mp13m4n]

That is what I thought to be honest. To me if the filter device itself is ok....then who cares if the endcaps are paperboard and glued on. Thanks for the help.

 

[HTSS_TR]

The main problem with Fram oil filter is, it is more expensive than other filters for not better quality. I would pick Puralator classic over Fram for reason that it is cheaper both online and in local stores.