alignment after ball joints ?

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not all replacement ball joints will match with the original one perfectly (in terms of length, geometry, etc.) so your toe and camber will likely be off as a result.

Getting an alignment done is the only way to ensure long tire thread life and proper suspension geometry per factory specifications.

Q.
 
I would agree with that assessment. Especially so with newer vehicles where it is often easier to replace the entire control arm.
 
The geometry of the alignment is changed anytime there is a parts replacement concerning steering components.Plus its a good investment to keep tire wear in check ,there's fuel savings considerations,the handling of the car.Do you need an alignment right away?,EEHH... it could probably wait a week or two, till you get the chance.
 
Depends on the car.
I replaced the drivers side lower control arm on my folks' Maxima last weekend and the alignment did not seem to change at all. (It had one bad ball joint which I replaced with the new LCA)
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
not all replacement ball joints will match with the original one perfectly (in terms of length, geometry, etc.) so your toe and camber will likely be off as a result.

Getting an alignment done is the only way to ensure long tire thread life and proper suspension geometry per factory specifications.

Q.


Bingo
 
Some do, some don't.

My s10 had a ball joint with a shank that goes through a round receiver in the knuckle, and a larger shank that pounds into the lower control arm. Assuming the pivot point is precisely aligned with stock spec, one should not need an alignment later.

However, there are joints that rivet/bolt into the LCA, and a small misalignment here can really throw off your front end.

Furthermore, some setups like the Ford Panther use shims on the stock ball joints but get cammed adjusters on aftermarket ones, meaning by default you need an alignment.
 
We can always go to the famous Dirty Harry quote:

"Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do ya?!"

The car will be drivable until you get things checked out. But you really should check it out.
Get a nice print out.
 
from my exp. let the suspension settle for a couple of hundred miles of dips, bumps, stops and turns. then get an alignment. do all your suspension "tune ups" at once and save on the alignment costs.
 
Originally Posted By: iluvhonda
from my exp. let the suspension settle for a couple of hundred miles of dips, bumps, stops and turns. then get an alignment. do all your suspension "tune ups" at once and save on the alignment costs.

That...

Or buy one of those 3 of 5 year alignment policies from a repair shop that sells them.
 
I could give a dozen reasons why certain vehicles need this, the top 2 all time: Ford F series with 'twin I beam or twin traction beam' front ends - absolutely required as the replacements have a different camber/caster bushing from stock to return to 'positive'

and any 82-newer S/t or 87-newer c/k from chevy/gmc
 
Originally Posted By: iluvhonda
from my exp. let the suspension settle for a couple of hundred miles of dips, bumps, stops and turns. then get an alignment. do all your suspension "tune ups" at once and save on the alignment costs.


BINGO!

Considering two tie rods are cheaper than an alignment you may want to consider that. IF it still drives straight and your wheel isn't tilted then I see no reason to.

I put in new LCAs and my steering wheel tilted so I went ahead and went ahead and changed the tie rods as the boots were beginning to split since I needed an alignment anyway. But if it drives fine after the work, save your money. But even a little bit off can cost ya.


This work could warrant a alignment. I was shocked when they wanted to align my front end when I just wanted tires. no thanks
 
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