Buick Rendezvous Brake Fluid ?

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Hey everyone, I am going to have the brake fluid changed in our Rendezvous because, as I was checking through my parents maintenance history I can see the fluid has never been changed. So there is a local place that will do the change very cheap.
I was going to get some Valvoline DOT 3/4 Full Synthetic Brake Fluid to do the change with. Is that a good fluid choice?

Also how many of these 32oz bottles am I going to need to get?

Thanks in advance.
 
Valvoline DOT 3/4 Brake Fluid is very good, I used Preston DOT 3 fluid in my car. One quart bottle is more than enough the bleed all 4 wheels.
 
Its all pretty much the same unless you get into high performance fluids or DOT 5,5.1 etc.
Change it every 2 years or so and its all good.

Just draw some out of the MC,refill.
Attach a hose to the bleeder and crack them one at a time,let the fluid run till it runs clear.Close the bleeder and move to the next one.
No need to push the pedal down or bleed.No air will enter the system.
 
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I can never understand how Valvoline puts DOT 3 slah 4 on their packaging, yet nobody else does this. Is it just a DOT 4 ( which supersedes DOT 3 so they write both????

I remeber reading somewhere that DOT 4 brake fluid COULD POTENTIALLY be bad on a system desighned for DOT 3 ( something to do with the seals) ......my problem is I read that after using the valvoline dot 3/4 and it's been bothering me ever since , one of these days soon I will replace the valvoline 3/4 with a straight DOT 3...soon.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Attach a hose to the bleeder and crack them one at a time,let the fluid run till it runs clear.Close the bleeder and move to the next one.


You may want to mention to the proper order in which to bleed the brake: Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and working your way towards the caliper closest to the master cylinder. Also, rapping with a mallet on each caliper while bleeding is recommended, since it often loosens small air bubbles.
 
I didn't because i know you would be here to correct me.

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since it often loosens small air bubbles


BTW where did the air come from?
 
Here's a thought for Trav and Volvo ST1: why don't you guys just add one another to your ignore list? It appears you don't get along.
smile.gif


BTW since there was no air in the system you can start on any wheel. If there is/was air in the system then start at the right rear wheel, then left rear, then right front, and finish with the left front. HTH
 
No problem whatsoever mixing DOT 3,4,5.1 Only mixing DOT 5 would be a serious issue.The Valvoline is a good fluid i wouldn't have any reservations about using it.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvo_ST1
Originally Posted By: Trav
Attach a hose to the bleeder and crack them one at a time,let the fluid run till it runs clear.Close the bleeder and move to the next one.


You may want to mention to the proper order in which to bleed the brake: Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and working your way towards the caliper closest to the master cylinder. Also, rapping with a mallet on each caliper while bleeding is recommended, since it often loosens small air bubbles.

Some cars call for a different sequence for bleeding brakes, however, that order is fine if you are just flushing fluid and have no air in the system.

Anyway, Valvoline DOT3/4 is excellent stuff. It stays far cleaner than the fluid that GM uses at the factory, and better than generic DOT3 fluids.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Some cars call for a different sequence for bleeding brakes, however, that order is fine if you are just flushing fluid and have no air in the system.


Sure, but on many newer cars you may also have to cycle the ABS control unit.

Quote:
Anyway, Valvoline DOT3/4 is excellent stuff. It stays far cleaner than the fluid that GM uses at the factory, and better than generic DOT3 fluids.


I like Castrol GT LMA. $10 for 1.5 liters, I believe.
 
The guy is just changing the brake fluid for cripe sake not refilling a system that has been worked on.

NO special sequence or ABS unit triggering with a scan tool is required for this basic maintenance.
As far as that article goes IMO its a little dramatic.Opening the cap does allow air into the reservoir but not into the system itself to any significant degree.It true enough the heating the fluid to a vapor can case air to form in the system but this is very rare on daily drivers.

The whole point to any bleed sequence is to prevent cross contamination of the fluid nothing more,the actual sequence isn't really all that critical.
Some Honda vehicles actually start at the left front then move to the right front,right rear,left rear.

The sequence you describe is for older systems with a single reservoir for the front and rear not dual systems or systems that may use an X layout.

This is one diagram,there are many more different sequences.

brakebleed.jpg
 
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The whole point to any bleed sequence is to prevent cross contamination of the fluid nothing more,the actual sequence isn't really all that critical.


That statement is an oxymoron. The proper sequence is exactly what prevents cross-contamination.

Did you use to post under the name labman by any chance?

The link to your image is kaputt. Let me know if you need help, posting the image.
 
It does not prevent cross contamination just lowers it at worst it may take a little more fluid to flush the old fluid out.
As far as bleeding air out it makes no difference at all.

Before posting that a procedure is wrong or has omitted something check your own information.Are you sure the sequence you gave is correct for his car?
 
Quote:
Here's a thought for Trav and Volvo ST1: why don't you guys just add one another to your ignore list? It appears you don't get along.



Done
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
It does not prevent cross contamination just lowers it

You were the one how who posted the bleeding sequence would "prevent cross contamination of the fluid." I simply didn't want to argue that point also.

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As far as bleeding air out it makes no difference at all.

That statement is false. Air in the system does affect the feel of the pedal and, if trapped in the valves of the ABS control unit, it cam impede proper ABS operation.

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Before posting that a procedure is wrong or has omitted something check your own information.

Funny that, coming for someone who posted marginal information with omissions in the first place, which caused my original comment in this thread.

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Are you sure the sequence you gave is correct for his car?

My suggestion was the common one that applies to many vehicles. Obviously, I would anybody expect to read the service manual or check ALLDATA before tinkering with their brakes.
 
Wow guys calm down! All I asked was if that was a good fluid choice and how much I needed to get. I also said that I was HAVING a place DO THE CHANGE.

Thanks for the whole lesson in brake fluid changing but it wasn't necessary.
 
Originally Posted By: radtech91
All I asked was if that was a good fluid choice and how much I needed to get. I also said that I was HAVING a place DO THE CHANGE.


That's right. Someone answered a question that hadn't been asked, and someone else found the given answer irritating. And here we are!
grin.gif


Why don't you just use any for your vehicle approved brake fluid? If your vehicle requires DOT4, I can fully recommend Castrol GT LMA.
 
Quote:
That statement is false. Air in the system does affect the feel of the pedal and, if trapped in the valves of the ABS control unit, it cam impede proper ABS operation.



I never said anything about air in the system not making a difference of course it can make for a spongy pedal.
Please read the post properly before going off on a rant.

I said:
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As far as bleeding air out it makes no difference at all


That is true! It doesn't make any difference where you begin the bleeding if you just want to bleed the air out of the system and you are just bleeding without activation of the ABS pump.

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Obviously, I would anybody expect to read the service manual or check ALLDATA before tinkering with their brakes.


You didn't say that and while it maybe obvious to you it may not be to someone else now who is omitting and posting marginal information?

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My suggestion was the common one that applies to many vehicles


So you don't know if that is correct for his car. Then why did you post it?
True it would work fine but you posted it as fact. Again marginal information.

To the OP. Sorry the thread has taken a turn this way but someone has made this personal and it doesn't belong in your thread. I apologize.
 
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