Oil Recommendation: 2004 Lexus IS300 Turbo

[afree]

1. What kind of vehicle you have:

2004 Lexus IS300 Turbo (stock 2JZ-GE engine with a turbo kit with a Precision SC6176S Journal bearing turbo)

2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well:

SAE 5W-30 (I have been using 10W-30 because heat from turbo) "API grade SL or ILSAC"

3. Where you live:

Florida

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?):
All of the above

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?):

Mostly short city drives. Some long distance highway

6. Whether your car has any known problems:

None

I prefer synthetic

Thanks!

 

[mcrn]

Does the vehicle have an oil temp or pressure gauge?

 

[afree]

no, unfortunately not

 

[afree]

Forgot some other parts:

I usually go 3000 miles between oil changes with an OEM Toyota filter. I prefer store bought oils instead of ordering online. But if there is an oil that you may recommend I guess I could bite the bullet if its worth getting. I was thinking of some of the racing oils that iv seen at Autozone (Kendell, VR1 RP ect) not sure how good these are. I have been using 10W-30 instead of the 5W-30 that is recommended in the owners manual as suggested by many others with turbo-converted cars.

Up to now I have been using Mobile 1 10W-30 and would like something more suited to my application and help prolong the life of my turbo.

Thanks again

 

[660mag]

Step one. Install oil pressure and temp gauges, and report back.
Just kidding, but not really.

Racing oils are not suited for full length oci engines.

I guess it will depend on what your goals are with this car.

 

[tig1]

M1 5-30 has the Honda HTO-06 high heat turbo spec.

 

[HTSS_TR]

The 5W30 recommended in the owner manual is for non-turbo, since you installed a turbo kit I would go with 0W40 or 5W40. M1 0W40 or Shell T6 5W40 will be better for your application.

 

[afree]

IS the 5W-40 the 'Turbo Diesel' M1?

 

[HTSS_TR]

If you like 5W40 then Shell Rotella T6 is a better choice. M1 Turbo Diesel 5W40 is good but I like Shell T6 better, you can get a 5-qt jug T6 at WM for around $20.

 

[trooper001]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If you like 5W40 then Shell Rotella T6 is a better choice. M1 Turbo Diesel 5W40 is good but I like Shell T6 better, you can get a 5-qt jug T6 at WM for around $20.


Minor correction - 4 quart jug. I wish they stopped stalling and do the 5 quart jugs already

 

[bodeh6]

For your climate and turbo, M1 0W-40 or German Castrol 0W-30.

 

[Redpatches]

Not sure why you would need a 0W for Florida. I think you should stick to the 10w-30, especialy during the summer. Could maybe switch back to 5w-30 in fall/winter if an oil change is due then. Definitely use a synthetic for your turbo. I prefer Mobil 1, but Pennzoil and Castrol will do the job just the same.

 

[30valve]

I'd run Mobil 0w-40 or GC 0w-30. It's synthetic and Audi approved to run in all their 4 cylinder turbo's plus has a higher HTHS rating. No you do not need a 0w in Florida, but it won't hurt a thing. It will pump faster on start-ups and get the vital lube to the turbo faster. At temp it will still be just as thick as a 5w-40 or 10w-30 or 40 oil.

 

[vinu_neuro]

M1 0W-40 or M1 TDT or Rotella T6 are the best bets for readily available oils. GC isn't approved in higher power applications like Porsche and Mercedes AMG.

 

[mgm13]

Any syn in 10w-30 is fine for your turbo as that is what I run in my turbo PT Cruiser in deep South Texas. One the best things you can do to prolong turbo life is to allow a few minutes of low rpm operation before shutting down. This little extra cooling of turbo bearings is significent.
By the way Valvoline VR1 Racing oil(also rated SL) has a free case deal this month and would work well for you. Check the rebate section.

 

[afree]

Thanks everyone for the advice. So I see the general opinion is a 0W oil. Will that be enough for hot Florida weather? I'll give it a try.

I also use a turbo timer to let it idle a but before the motor shuts off.

The thing that got me most interested in the oil i have been using is this article. I may not be making those kinds of power levels but its an interesting read about the zinc content in oils. Are there any oils that you guys recommend that have a higher zinc content than mobile one?

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merch...Motor%20Oil.pdf

Thanks

 

[mcrn]

I have never seen Mobile one but it sounds like a Chinese knock off of Mobil 1 and therefore I would avoid it!

 

[steve20]

any 10-30 syn and spike it with one half bottle of ZDDPlus-that will bring your Zinc/Phos levels up to the 1400-1500 range in a 4 1/2 quart capacity system.

 

[YZF_Eric]

That FP site is a good article. I had a 2008 Evo 10, stroked to 2.3L and made 586awhp on 14 psi. Was running 5w/10w-30 mixed. Shop told me to do it, and this is pre-BITOG days for me. Three weeks later, a valve shoots right through the piston.

It consumed more than a quart of oil every 200 miles, less than a 100 miles on FRESH OIL, it's already DARK as dirt. Maybe the oil control rings were [censored], but it sure did spit a lot of smoke.

In my experience, if I ever get another 400+hp turbo car, I am not ever going to use a 5w30 or 10w30 as I believe it was the cause of destruction.

Use something other than 10w30 IMO.

 

[afree]

Just made the switch to Rotella T6. Shall see how it goes

Feel funny putting diesel oil in a gas engine lol