MMO piston soak
- Thread starter pzev
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That's interesting. I use MMO as a fogging oil in my snow blower, I do every year. The plug had carbon some oily carbon on it when I reinstalled it after squirting MMO into the cylinder. Seeing this thread, I just removed the plug from the engine and it is oil fouled as it always is when I fog the engine. The carbon wipes right off with a shop towel. The tiny amount of carbon on the piston top easily scrapes off with a small screw driver via the spark plug hole. Maybe because this engine is constantly treated with MMO.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
But the OP had excellent results by just soaking the pistons at room temperature
You're right. Well, has the MMO made it easy for the crud to wipe away?
But the OP had excellent results by just soaking the pistons at room temperature
You're right. Well, has the MMO made it easy for the crud to wipe away?
In my case it could be that I fog the engine hot. Then when the head is cool to the touch I remove the plug and squirt MMO into the cylinder. Keep in mind after a piston soak people usually start up and engine and run it. I think heat and mechanical action play into this. Maybe the OP will check back into this thread and shed some light.
When I soaked the pistons, the cylinder head was removed so the engine was completely cool. In all honesty, if those other chemicals couldn't make a dent, then its gotta be some tough carbon on those spark plugs. Perhaps there is a materials difference? The pistons were aluminum, that spark plug is mainly ceramic and steel.
Vikas, can you manually remove the carbon with a brush or other object? I'd be curious to hear how much force it requires to remove.
Vikas, can you manually remove the carbon with a brush or other object? I'd be curious to hear how much force it requires to remove.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
In my case it could be that I fog the engine hot. Then when the head is cool to the touch I remove the plug and squirt MMO into the cylinder. Keep in mind after a piston soak people usually start up and engine and run it. I think heat and mechanical action play into this. Maybe the OP will check back into this thread and shed some light.
^This is what I was alluding to.
In my case it could be that I fog the engine hot. Then when the head is cool to the touch I remove the plug and squirt MMO into the cylinder. Keep in mind after a piston soak people usually start up and engine and run it. I think heat and mechanical action play into this. Maybe the OP will check back into this thread and shed some light.
^This is what I was alluding to.
I'm still waiting the opportunity to do my own MMO piston soak, but as others have stated, I think the compression and heat involved in the start up after the soak likely play a role too. I've seen several threads on different forums laying out the process, and a common thing they all shared was the running the engine when the soak procedure was over (and then changing the oil).
The only variation was in how long to run it: some simply started the engine and idled it for 5-15 minutes, while others recommended driving it between 'a few blocks' to 50 or so miles, and then changing the oil.
At the end of my planned soak I plan to drive it at operating temperature (as verified by my Scanguage rather than the dummy gauge) for about 5-15 minutes when the soak is over and before doing the OC. I also prefer to do it over a minimum 24 hour interval where we see some decently warm temps outside, and which is part of what I'm still waiting on. Maybe the last part won't make much difference, but I'll take any edge I can get when doing it, even if only theoretical and likely not very significant.
-Spyder
The only variation was in how long to run it: some simply started the engine and idled it for 5-15 minutes, while others recommended driving it between 'a few blocks' to 50 or so miles, and then changing the oil.
At the end of my planned soak I plan to drive it at operating temperature (as verified by my Scanguage rather than the dummy gauge) for about 5-15 minutes when the soak is over and before doing the OC. I also prefer to do it over a minimum 24 hour interval where we see some decently warm temps outside, and which is part of what I'm still waiting on. Maybe the last part won't make much difference, but I'll take any edge I can get when doing it, even if only theoretical and likely not very significant.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
I'm still waiting the opportunity to do my own MMO piston soak, but as others have stated, I think the compression and heat involved in the start up after the soak likely play a role too. I've seen several threads on different forums laying out the process, and a common thing they all shared was the running the engine when the soak procedure was over (and then changing the oil).
The only variation was in how long to run it: some simply started the engine and idled it for 5-15 minutes, while others recommended driving it between 'a few blocks' to 50 or so miles, and then changing the oil.
At the end of my planned soak I plan to drive it at operating temperature (as verified by my Scanguage rather than the dummy gauge) for about 5-15 minutes when the soak is over and before doing the OC. I also prefer to do it over a minimum 24 hour interval where we see some decently warm temps outside, and which is part of what I'm still waiting on. Maybe the last part won't make much difference, but I'll take any edge I can get when doing it, even if only theoretical and likely not very significant.
-Spyder
^+1. Couldn't have said it any better myself.
I'm still waiting the opportunity to do my own MMO piston soak, but as others have stated, I think the compression and heat involved in the start up after the soak likely play a role too. I've seen several threads on different forums laying out the process, and a common thing they all shared was the running the engine when the soak procedure was over (and then changing the oil).
The only variation was in how long to run it: some simply started the engine and idled it for 5-15 minutes, while others recommended driving it between 'a few blocks' to 50 or so miles, and then changing the oil.
At the end of my planned soak I plan to drive it at operating temperature (as verified by my Scanguage rather than the dummy gauge) for about 5-15 minutes when the soak is over and before doing the OC. I also prefer to do it over a minimum 24 hour interval where we see some decently warm temps outside, and which is part of what I'm still waiting on. Maybe the last part won't make much difference, but I'll take any edge I can get when doing it, even if only theoretical and likely not very significant.
-Spyder
^+1. Couldn't have said it any better myself.
I've mixed MMO with extra solvent and gotten great results too. Members scare others away with GUNK but no one said you have to use a whole quart of gunk at once. My current issue is the engines i want to clean have really bad angled spark plug holes, not the easy DOHC or other honda up top designs.
After doing a similar soak as the quote above i changed the oil with supertech two times quick succession because even after a week and several moderate highway drives the oil smelled very aromatic and visually not like new oil. Some traces are going to be in your crankcase a while no matter what is used.
After doing a similar soak as the quote above i changed the oil with supertech two times quick succession because even after a week and several moderate highway drives the oil smelled very aromatic and visually not like new oil. Some traces are going to be in your crankcase a while no matter what is used.
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