AmsOil S2K 20w50 98 LS1

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Pablo,

With all due respect, a 20w-50 is at least one SAE grade too thick for a NEW, domestic V-8 engine, rebuilt to factory specs. The situation with your old, worn Volvo engine is not a good analogy. If this was a hand built, 326 ci small block putting out 525 hp and running 500 mile races, I might agree with you ....However, even those engines have have been running low viscosity synthetics for several years now - in the actual races - as Terry and George Morrison will confirm.

The 0w-20/0w-30 synthetics lower oil temps, generate more top end power, and can save you a refueling stop in the course of a long race ....

Buster,

The fact that the Cobra R recommends Mobil 1, 15w-50 has more to do with the high performance capability of the Mobil 1, xw-30 grades than it does with the engine ....

BTW, I now run the Amsoil S2000, 20w-50 year round in my 1990 Audi. However, the engine has 212,000 miles on it, and Audi recommended 20w-50 down to -10C/+14F in this motor. My oil analysis results clearly indicate the heavier oil is more desirable at this stage - when I post the comparison you'll see. The point is that you have to assess each situation on its'own merits and not make general statements.

[ November 20, 2003, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: TooSlick ]
 
My engine was not built to factory specs. It is not a all out race engine either thou. It has forged rods and forged pistons on a refurbished stock crank, ported heads and a LS6 cam. The builder told me that it was built to looser tolerances than stock.

Is this enough to make the 20W50 a good choice for me? I don't know. Perhaps I will give the 0W30 a go next time. I did refill with 20W50 this time thou as I had bought a case of gal jugs.

Running cooler does sound good to me as I had some overheating issues at WSIR in October. I still haven't had the car dyno tuned yet and figured that for the culprit on the overheating (and not watching the gauges).

One question I would have regarding going to 0w30, how much would this likely drop the oil pressure?

At any rate keep the debate going it makes good reading and hopefully I'll learn something from it.
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Call me an old-timer but a performance application with living in CA = 50 weight oil.

Also a syntehtic 20w-50 starts just fine on cool mornings.

Remember folks that a 20 weight oil used to a winter monograde.

This oil has better cold start charcteristics than dino winter oils did some time ago.

What about all those autralians running 25w-60 amd 25w-70 oils in their V8 Holdens?

Fred...
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This oil is fine for that car, although some would even run it in a Toyota 4cyl which is nuts IMO. The thing about RL is that there syn oils offer incredible protetcion at lower viscosities. Look at the guys in NASCAR using Mobil 0w-30 R oil.
 
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Originally posted by buster:
Look at the guys in NASCAR using Mobil 0w-30 R oil.

But do they really?
We dont know that for sure, we know they use a 10w-15 weight oil for qulaifying ( since power is more important that longevity in an engine rebuilt after every race especially in qualifying).

Maybe teh 0w-30R is just like the Valvoline formuations same base oil as their hi end oil, just tilt the mix of additives stowards racing, to have the additive pckage mirro a racing package.

ie take out all or nearly all rust inhibitors, all or nearly all deteregents and add more anti foaming and anti wear additives.

I am very suspicious, of using any oil designated a "race" oil, for street application, even if it involves a lot of streetracing and autoXing.

Fred...
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quote:

Originally posted by buster:

quote:

The builder told me that it was built to looser tolerances than stock.

I'd keep going with the 20w-50 then. If the tolerances are looser, then this oil is more ideal. I really think it's just break in. *-*-


Agreed, what do you guys think of a 15w-40, something high in moly... after break-in is over?
 
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