Tie rod nut stuck, causing bolt to spin, and more.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
127
Location
Winnipeg, Canada
So my tie rod nut was stuck, it would only spin the whole bolt since the nut was stuck, and now said nut is stripped! Two questions

-Where do I go from here with getting a good stripped nut remover?
-How do I take off this nut? (I would cut this off but there's no room between the nut and the steering knuckle)
-Is the tie rod end joint ruined now?

Thanks!
 
Which nut? The adjusting locling nut or the joint nut? If the adjuxting nut, just remove the tie-rod nut and pop it off and unscrew the complete tie rod end. If it is the joint nut, you may need to burn int off and yes-wreck the joint.
 
mazda_protege5_2003_tie_rod_end_oem_8ag4_32_280_8ag432280.jpg


The nut on top that allows it to tighten on the other side of the steering knuckle.
 
In this situation, I would have given the Tie rod a Good Whack, to seat he taper into the steering arm if the nut started to spin. But as the nut is stripped you may now have to cut the nut off.
I would grind through the side of the nut with an angle grinder (perhaps on two sides)to remove it. But be careful not to cut the steering arm.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
In this situation, I would have given the Tie rod a Good Whack, to seat he taper into the steering arm
Or put a jack under the tie rod end to push the tapered shaft into the tapered knuckle.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: expat
In this situation, I would have given the Tie rod a Good Whack, to seat he taper into the steering arm
Or put a jack under the tie rod end to push the tapered shaft into the tapered knuckle.


Strange, I have never seen a Tie rod attached to the underside of a Steering knuckle, I thought it was a safety requirement that the tie rod drop in from the top (in case the nut comes off)
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Strange, I have never seen a Tie rod attached to the underside of a Steering knuckle, I thought it was a safety requirement that the tie rod drop in from the top (in case the nut comes off)

Its definitely from above but i just included the picture to show the 1st reply whih nut i meant.
 
Must/can use a nut splitter which is a guilatine style cutter that is tightened untill the blade wedge cracks the nut.Might be able to borrow one.
 
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
Must/can use a nut splitter which is a guilatine style cutter that is tightened untill the blade wedge cracks the nut.Might be able to borrow one.


Got one arranged for tommorow. Lets see how it works!
 
If a jack won't work to jam the taper in sometimes a c-clamp does. Since the old one's trash a hammer might too. I have to +1 the destructive angle grinder approach.
 
Originally Posted By: cutchemist42
Originally Posted By: FL_Rob
Must/can use a nut splitter which is a guilatine style cutter that is tightened untill the blade wedge cracks the nut.Might be able to borrow one.


Got one arranged for tommorow. Lets see how it works!

I recommend use of impact gun on nut splitter.

BTW: All tie rods I own and have ever worked on have the bolt on top and go in from the bottom. Regardless of type, put 'em back how you found them.
 
I had this issue with a sway bar (on both ends.)

I bought one of those oscillating multi function tools with a metal blade on it... took about 2 minutes of cutting and one swift hit of a hammer on each and the sway bar was out (sway bar bolts were much thicker than the tie rod ones so it should be even easier.) Plus no obnoxious sparks flying everywhere like with a dremel or cutting wheel.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top