Anyone get a long block from RockAuto? Experiences? The one for my Jeep 4.0 says its a Marshall.
long block from RockAuto
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I always heard that Jasper makes one of the better rebuilds (check NAPA), but don't have any personal experience with them.
I have read on another forum that Marshall reman engines are of really poor quality. They liked Jasper.
The price on the Jasper website is about $1K more than that at RockAuto. I wonder if thats apples to apples. Does the Jasper price include anything more than a long block? With Jasper it seems you need to go to one of "their" installers.
yea, looked up my dodge aries, and found the same deal, Marshall listed
Most likely that's who Rockauto has their "ties" with.....What's interesting, is if I get a price quote through the marshall site, it's actually HIGHER on the marshall site, than on rockauto....
Most likely that's who Rockauto has their "ties" with.....What's interesting, is if I get a price quote through the marshall site, it's actually HIGHER on the marshall site, than on rockauto....
Originally Posted By: ahoier
yea, looked up my dodge aries, and found the same deal, Marshall listed
Most likely that's who Rockauto has their "ties" with.....What's interesting, is if I get a price quote through the marshall site, it's actually HIGHER on the marshall site, than on rockauto....
That's because you'd only be buying one engine from Marshall. Rock Auto has many in "outlying warehouses" across the country.
I love RA, and I have said it here often. There are a few things though, that I won't buy again from them such as an air filter.
I recently bought an air filter with a large order, thinking there would be a brake on the shipping. But, that wasn't the case. The shipping on the airfilter was the same($8.30) as if I ordered the filter seperately making the filter cost more than I could have gotten it localy. Even though the A/F(FRAM) itself was only $6.00 @RA compared to $14-$16 localy. And then I could have gotten the FRAM localy on sale too. So, I won't do this again but I will continue to buy from RA as usually they are the best price even when I include shipping.
Buying an engine from RA is another item I may or may not buy from RA. The reason is...The Core Charge! In order to get your money back on the core charge, you have to pay to ship your old engine back to Rock Auto. Or, is the return shipping included in Rock Auto's price of the engine??? This, I don't know!
You may do better to shop for an engine localy at such places as NAPA, AdvAutoParts, PebBoy's or AutoZone just to save all of the shipping costs(1st, to your house and 2nd, your old engine "core" back to RA). Those costs could be the difference!
yea, looked up my dodge aries, and found the same deal, Marshall listed
Most likely that's who Rockauto has their "ties" with.....What's interesting, is if I get a price quote through the marshall site, it's actually HIGHER on the marshall site, than on rockauto....
That's because you'd only be buying one engine from Marshall. Rock Auto has many in "outlying warehouses" across the country.
I love RA, and I have said it here often. There are a few things though, that I won't buy again from them such as an air filter.
I recently bought an air filter with a large order, thinking there would be a brake on the shipping. But, that wasn't the case. The shipping on the airfilter was the same($8.30) as if I ordered the filter seperately making the filter cost more than I could have gotten it localy. Even though the A/F(FRAM) itself was only $6.00 @RA compared to $14-$16 localy. And then I could have gotten the FRAM localy on sale too. So, I won't do this again but I will continue to buy from RA as usually they are the best price even when I include shipping.
Buying an engine from RA is another item I may or may not buy from RA. The reason is...The Core Charge! In order to get your money back on the core charge, you have to pay to ship your old engine back to Rock Auto. Or, is the return shipping included in Rock Auto's price of the engine??? This, I don't know!
You may do better to shop for an engine localy at such places as NAPA, AdvAutoParts, PebBoy's or AutoZone just to save all of the shipping costs(1st, to your house and 2nd, your old engine "core" back to RA). Those costs could be the difference!
Have you check with pricing from local parts stores?
Shipping the core back would be my concern. I would think if you bought one at a local parts store, you could just take it back there. But I'm not sure if that's the case, or if you have to ship it directly back to the reman facility.
Shipping the core back would be my concern. I would think if you bought one at a local parts store, you could just take it back there. But I'm not sure if that's the case, or if you have to ship it directly back to the reman facility.
RockAuto said $123 for total shipping, including picking up the core block. Thats to Albany NY area. I assume as in past, no sales tax. The $123 is close to the sales tax for me if I got it local. I think according to the RockAuto page, the price is a closeout price. Although unlike filter or brake pads, they are probably not selling long blocks very quickly.
I have been in the parts business 20 years and I would highly recomend buying local. I have sold Marshall engines at BIG A. They are just as good as any other reman, but they all have issues. In my experience about 3 in 10 come back for warranty concerns. You want somebody local to deal with either a shop or parts house. just my 10 cents!
Me three! I would ask around, get the 'hot' local machine shop to do one for me.
Heck of a lot better than anything sold as 'reman'. Some of those engines are terribly cheaply done, and using cheap parts in a car you plan to drive is a bad idea in my book.
And we all know that you can have the finest brand name parts in the world and then get them fitted improperly.
Heck of a lot better than anything sold as 'reman'. Some of those engines are terribly cheaply done, and using cheap parts in a car you plan to drive is a bad idea in my book.
And we all know that you can have the finest brand name parts in the world and then get them fitted improperly.
The local machine shop I talked to could rebuild my engine if it was rebuild-able. But how much would they charge? The local shop is a one man business. Plus it would take a lot more time than just ordering one. The problem for me is I will be driving a Suburban while my Jeep is being fixed. The Jeep is not all that great on MPG and the Suburban is a whole lot worse.
I thought the jeep 4.0 was "indestructible"?
My thoughts exactly
My thoughts exactly
Sometimes the lowest price isnt the best deal.
If i could get a local machine shop that had a good reputation that's the route i would take,otherwise Jasper i know a few garages that use them and if there is a warranty claim they get paid to fix it from Jasper with no problem.
From their input Jasper have a very low failure rate and they continue to use them.
If i could get a local machine shop that had a good reputation that's the route i would take,otherwise Jasper i know a few garages that use them and if there is a warranty claim they get paid to fix it from Jasper with no problem.
From their input Jasper have a very low failure rate and they continue to use them.
Originally Posted By: steve20
I thought the jeep 4.0 was "indestructible"?
My thoughts exactly
No engine is perfect. The 97+ occasionally breaks a piston skirt and the 05 and 06 eat cams due to a redesign of the oil pump drive shaft. The 2000 to early 2002's have a problem with the head cracking on the valve spring side which dumps the coolant into the oil.
I thought the jeep 4.0 was "indestructible"?
My thoughts exactly
No engine is perfect. The 97+ occasionally breaks a piston skirt and the 05 and 06 eat cams due to a redesign of the oil pump drive shaft. The 2000 to early 2002's have a problem with the head cracking on the valve spring side which dumps the coolant into the oil.
How about this for a weird failure...
My parents' 2006 TJ Rubicon (4.0L) overheated this past weekend. They were out in Arizona, and his Jeep buddies said it sounds like the impeller broke off the water pump shaft on the inside. I said I have never heard of that happening.
Turns out, that's what it was. The plastic impeller twisted off the shaft on the inside of the pump housing, and coolant wasn't circulating. And it doesn't have that many miles either.
My parents' 2006 TJ Rubicon (4.0L) overheated this past weekend. They were out in Arizona, and his Jeep buddies said it sounds like the impeller broke off the water pump shaft on the inside. I said I have never heard of that happening.
Turns out, that's what it was. The plastic impeller twisted off the shaft on the inside of the pump housing, and coolant wasn't circulating. And it doesn't have that many miles either.
Had that happen on several cars!
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