1995 Jeep Wrangler, 4cyl, 5MT

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My son bought this vehicle new and it has 60K miles on it now. I have never worked on it, and he admits that the only thing he remembers having done are oil and filter changes over the years. He also says he lost 5th gear about 10 years ago, but never had it looked at for repair. Besides over sized wheels and tires, a lift kit and some aftermarket shocks, it's pretty much stock still.

Anyways, I plan to work on it with him the next couple of days to change out all the fluids as a minimum (coolant, diffs, t-case, tranny, brakes, clutch, etc.). He said he had the engine oil and filter changed as well as the spark plugs before coming to visit. Although I'm not mechanically inclined, I do some of the work (mostly fluids) on other vehicles (Tundra, RAV4, S2000, and an Avalanche). My concern is that I might not have some of the tools I need to pull some of the drain/fill plugs for a Jeep. The owners manual is pretty good with illustrations, fluid recommendations and torque settings, but doesn't say what tools are required.

So, if anyone has any experience with this vehicle that can mention what tools I'll need for the engine block coolant plug, tranny plugs (manual), diffs and t-case plugs, that would be much appreciated before I lift it and find out I don't have what I need. I do have a torque wrench though.

Also, what is a good Mopar coolant equivalent that I might find at an auto parts store?

I plan to stay with conventional lubricants for the most part, but was wondering if this rear diff needs LSD additive. The owners manual doesn't state so. Also, the manual says to fill diffs to 1/2" below fill hole. This seems unusual...is it legitimate?

One other thing that the manual says to do seems weird...replace the ignition wires every 30K miles! What's up with that?

Any help in these or any other areas before I tackle this job would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
 
first, it takes green coolant.

second, my ax-5 takes a 15/16 socket to get at the plugs. be careful of lubricants for the ax-5. gl-5 gear oil will destroy the yellow metals synchros. people use synchromesch or plain 10w-30 motor oil (which is reccomended by the dealer.) or you can use gl-4 gear oil if you can find it!
 
That's interesting. The manual states 75W-90 GL5...which made me wonder. Maybe that's what's wrong with his 5th gear!

I have some AMSOIL MTF on hand. Do you think that would work well?
 
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I have a '92 Wrangler. Although the entire drivetrain is from something else, the engine is still a 2.5L out of a '95.

Swapping the fluids on everything should be pretty easy.

For the coolant, just open the cap and remove the lower radiator hose. The last time I changed coolant, I swapped the water pump, so I never pulled the block plug. It's probably a 1/2" wrench though.
I use the old green stuff and never had a problem. Everything is clean inside.

I can't remember the plug location for the AX5 tranny, as I haven't run it in over 10 years. Make sure you use a GL4 fluid though. Actually, I've had great luck with Coastal GL3,GL4,GL5 rated gear oil from Advance Auto. It doesn't appear to use as much sulphur as a regular GL5 only oil. The AX5 is a pretty weak transmission and 5th gear is typically the first to go.

My NP231HD (1/2 ton Dodge) case uses hex plugs, but IIRC the stock plug bolts were 30MM.
I use Mobil 1 multi vehicle syn ATF. Dexron III would work, but I think the best bang for the buck is ATF+4 or Mercon V.

The axles use standard GL5 80W90 gear oil. Pull the covers to drain (1/2" wrench or socket). The rear Dana 35 uses a rubber fill plug and your 3/8" ratchet will fit into the front Dana 30 plug. I fill my diffs to the bottom of the drain plug. When you pull the rear cover, you'll know it has a limited slip (I doubt it does).

You can ohm out the wires to see if they're still good, or just replace the cap/rotor/wires in one shot and be done with it. That's what I would do, especially if he goes off road (and they get wet).

If he does go off road, make sure he buys a spare set of axle shafts. The rear Dana 35c c-clip shafts typically break when they look at a big rock. Being stuck without a spare will make getting off the trail tough, as the entire wheel & brake drum will come off.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
That's interesting. The manual states 75W-90 GL5...which made me wonder. Maybe that's what's wrong with his 5th gear!


Jeep/Chryco had GL5 in the manual. They revised it IIRC, during the early TJ years to use motor oil or GL4. Some guys I know run MT90 or Pennzoil Synchromesh in their AX15's with good results.

Your son's AX5 lost 5th gear because it's an AX5. It's just a weak tranny all around.
 
Thanks for all the help on this guys. He bought this Jeep when he graduated from college and for some reason has sentimental attachment. He has a Porsche Carrera and a MB E320 that are mothballed until he overcomes his unemployed status. I'm glad he didn't bring one of those for me to work on!

I'll try to find some GL4 75W-90 for the tranny if you think the AMSOIL MTF is too light for it. Maybe some 10W-30 engine oil is in order if I can't find GL4 (discontinued/obsolete now).
 
It looks like I can get everything I need at NAPA. Do the differential face plates use gaskets or RTV?
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock


Your son's AX5 lost 5th gear because it's an AX5. It's just a weak tranny all around.


lol.gif
I had a 1997 TJ 2.5L, 5spd. 5th was tough to stay in anyway with the vast amounts of power that puppy had. You pretty much had to keep the go pedal matted to somewhat maintain speed. I bought it used with 7Kmi. Funny thing was it had factory A/C as well. You had to feel it when the compressor kicked in. Wahhhhh..*click*.. Burrrrrr.. It was COLD a/c though!

Joel
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
It looks like I can get everything I need at NAPA. Do the differential face plates use gaskets or RTV?


RTV is fine. It's all I ever use.
 
OK, I'll RTV the plates. That's assuming I can get them off!

I looked at the clutch slave and can't see a bleeder valve (at least that I can recognize). The only thing I see is a Allen wrench type set screw underneath the valve. Is that it?

Thanks.
 
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