I got my oil changed at the jiffy lube, and I need to add some oil because my car leaks a little. I was just going to put 5w-30 synthetic high mileage, but I wasn't sure if I needed to match the brands or not (nor was I sure of whether I could mix synthetic with non-synthetic). Any help would be appreciated.
Topping off
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You can put anything in the same weight rating in there. Makes no matter whether it's synthetic or dino; high mileage or regular. It is suggested that it be an API rated oil, preferably from a name-brand manufacturer.
IMHO, for just a topoff of 1/2 qt or less, I doubt your car would even noticed if you used something in a different weight grade alltogether.
IMHO, for just a topoff of 1/2 qt or less, I doubt your car would even noticed if you used something in a different weight grade alltogether.
You can top-off with any oil, synthetic or conventional, and any brand as long as it is API SM or SN oil.
Feel free to top off with any oil you want. Syn, conventional, high mileage, different brand, whatever. Just make sure the oil you top off with is consistent with whatever you car's manufacturer requires.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
You can top-off with any oil, synthetic or conventional, and any brand as long as it is API SM or SN oil.
+1. My original fill is the Syntec in my sig, but I've topped up through this OCI with a quart of QS HM 10W30. Now that I'm killing the few miles to go before its due to come out (when a nice enough day comes), I'm adding some PP 10W30 from a bought on sale stash I have and which is due to go in when this stuff comes out.
While many will say its ideal to stick with the original fill in terms of oil type, brand, etc, to me, keeping the sump filled with clean oil (that meets the spec your car requires) is the main thing (though that doesn't mean I advocate the extreme of using a Frankenblend of oils just for the sake of doing so).
-Spyder
You can top-off with any oil, synthetic or conventional, and any brand as long as it is API SM or SN oil.
+1. My original fill is the Syntec in my sig, but I've topped up through this OCI with a quart of QS HM 10W30. Now that I'm killing the few miles to go before its due to come out (when a nice enough day comes), I'm adding some PP 10W30 from a bought on sale stash I have and which is due to go in when this stuff comes out.
While many will say its ideal to stick with the original fill in terms of oil type, brand, etc, to me, keeping the sump filled with clean oil (that meets the spec your car requires) is the main thing (though that doesn't mean I advocate the extreme of using a Frankenblend of oils just for the sake of doing so).
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
Feel free to top off with any oil you want. Syn, conventional, high mileage, different brand, whatever. Just make sure the oil you top off with is consistent with whatever you car's manufacturer requires.
well stated.
don't matter what you top off with, as long as you are topping off with an oil that meets the reqs per the vehicle manufacturer, either referenced in the owner's manual, or on the oil filler cap. I know a lot of people like "going up a grade" for older vehicles, or vehicles that are burning/leaking oil.......but me personally, I'd rather switch the ad-pack and go with the high mileage oil, in the proper weight outlined per the manufacturer......
[censored], you could top off with Royal Purple if you wanted*, sure, it's $9/quart......but it might add a little tiger to your tank
*Note: That is, if your manufacturer specs an "SL" grade oil - which last I checked is all that RP has.....which may not meet the specs for "newer" vehicles today
Feel free to top off with any oil you want. Syn, conventional, high mileage, different brand, whatever. Just make sure the oil you top off with is consistent with whatever you car's manufacturer requires.
well stated.
don't matter what you top off with, as long as you are topping off with an oil that meets the reqs per the vehicle manufacturer, either referenced in the owner's manual, or on the oil filler cap. I know a lot of people like "going up a grade" for older vehicles, or vehicles that are burning/leaking oil.......but me personally, I'd rather switch the ad-pack and go with the high mileage oil, in the proper weight outlined per the manufacturer......
[censored], you could top off with Royal Purple if you wanted*, sure, it's $9/quart......but it might add a little tiger to your tank
*Note: That is, if your manufacturer specs an "SL" grade oil - which last I checked is all that RP has.....which may not meet the specs for "newer" vehicles today
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