MMO piston soak

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Recently I've been helping my father resurrect an old honda that's been sitting dead in his garage for the last year or so. It had a blown head gasket, and we were debating whether it was even worth fixing (89 accord SEI).
As a fun project, we decided to get it running again...and during the process I made the bad decision of trying to clean the carbon off the cylinders (150k miles worth). I later learned that doing so could break pieces of it off which can score the cylinder bore upon restart...so to correct my error I added some MMO to each cylinder before we departed for an out of state wedding. (Car was sitting without a cylinder head during this time).

Fast forward a week, and all of the carbon that I had failed to remove with a manual scrub brush and some carb cleaner (pretty much all of it :p), was now either already detached from the pistons, or so soft that the swipe of a finger would remove it. I then took my oil extractor to suck the remaining MMO and carbon off the pistons. The pistons were left looking brand spanking new...not a single piece of carbon remained. I did do a nice once over with some high pressure carb cleaner to clear the rings, then coated the bore with engine oil before we put the head back on.
Car runs great...good power, etc etc.


Anyways, I'd just thought I'd share my experience with MMO. There are probably numerous products that would accomplish the same thing with the allotted time, but MMO worked in this instance just fine. Had I performed this procedure with the engine still assembled, I'm reasonably certain that virtually all of the carbon would have been blown out the exhaust upon the first start...it was that soft. I was actually astonished how easily it lifted off, especially considering it was as hard as stone before the soak (scrubbing with a plastic brush did nothing). I had to use a brass brush to remove the carbon from the cylinder head, as soaking that in mmo wasn't feasible. It took lots of scrabing and tons of carb cleaner to get it all off...the MMO soak was far easier, just took more time.

I've got some MMO in the sump of his camry in the hopes it can take care of a little varnish. I'll post back with results in a couple months. Sadly, I didn't snap any pictures of the pistons before and after. There was a lot of cussing and finger busting going on during the work, and stopping to take pictures wasn't exactly on our to do list :p.
 
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Your results are encouraging. I have some set aside for a planned MMO piston soak at the end of this OCI (to see if helps any with oil consumption), although I won't have the luxury of letting it soak a week (this is my DD). Most likely mine will be 24 hours, and I'll stretch it to 48 if I can manage without the car that long.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Thanks very much for sharing another great MMO story.



+1 Nice to hear another MMO success story from someone other than myself or a few others that had great success with the product over the years! My brother and I have done many piston soaks with it in small engines pulled out of the trash and given new life, or sold. Thanks for posting.
 
Wow, great write up. +2!
thumbsup2.gif


I've got about a 20% mix of MMO with a qt of M1 0w-30(as filler and some friction modifiers for compensation) with Rotella T6. I'm hoping the MMO will do it's thing with T6.

This got me thinking, I tried Amsoil's Power foam twice on the Civic now(after it had 230,000 miles) and used Amsoil's Engine Flush twice at idle prior to the drain.

I'm surprised at the horror stories(like the fears you mentioned) that I haven't gotten a chunk loose yet to really clog something from those treatments. Perhaps it did 'score' one of the cylinder heads slightly, without me realizing? Each time with the power foam it was a good smoke show for several WOTs.

Any way of knowing? I've never torn down an engine but would pulling my spark plugs(I have to change them before my next interval) allow me to see the cylinder head at all via a plug's tube?
 
Jim if you scored a cylinder badly a compression test would show a drop of compression in that cylinder, you'd also be using some oil depending on how badly scored the cylinder is. IMO if Powerfoam sits long enough it will soften hard carbon, that product works well! Although I like something like MMO for piston soaks, and let them soak at least 24 hours or more, 48 hours is even better! Turn the engine over by hand a few times [every few hours] and re-soak. In the case of piston soaks the longer the product sits the better, and its always better to fire the engine up with a little oil in the cylinder. A little meaning just that a little. The last thing you want to do it hydro-lock an engine with oil.
 
why, I got the same effect (of softening/removing carbon on piston crown) with fogging oil inside my B&S Quattro 4hp.

10A902 if you care to know.

Q.
 
ill jump on the MMO bandwagon to. not only do i use mmo in my street truck, i use it on my radio control truck as a after run oil. if you dont know in the r/c world it best to run a good oil through the engine, at the end of the day. just a little. keeps it from rusting cause the methanol tends to draw moisture. i also use it on the air filter.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Jim if you scored a cylinder badly a compression test would show a drop of compression in that cylinder, you'd also be using some oil depending on how badly scored the cylinder is. IMO if Powerfoam sits long enough it will soften hard carbon, that product works well! Although I like something like MMO for piston soaks, and let them soak at least 24 hours or more, 48 hours is even better! Turn the engine over by hand a few times [every few hours] and re-soak. In the case of piston soaks the longer the product sits the better, and its always better to fire the engine up with a little oil in the cylinder. A little meaning just that a little. The last thing you want to do it hydro-lock an engine with oil.


Thanks for the explanation. I'll monitor for any increase in oil consumption during my next extended interval. I drove about 500 miles and decided to throw the final 7-8 ounces of MMO in(to make it a 20% fill of MMO during the OCI), I suppose some will evaporate away so will be expecting some oil 'consumption' with this MMO run.

I'll probably top off with conventional Formula Shell, since the mixture is still going to be on the thick side of a 30 weight even after MMO beats up on the T6 a little. I'm expecting that this mix I have can take it, since it's in an easy-on-oil engine. So far the car runs great on the mix, and probably due to thickness, but the valve train noise has quieted down!
grin2.gif
 
You should be fine with that mix Jim. Just keep an eye on the oil level. If you do have to top up, either use oil, or you can premix 20% oil/mmo into an empty qt bottle and use that. Honestly I'd just top up with oil. Glad to hear the valve train has quieted down for you. Most people notice the effects of MMO in short order, or during the winter with how much easier the engine turns over.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Wow, great write up. +2!
thumbsup2.gif


I've got about a 20% mix of MMO with a qt of M1 0w-30(as filler and some friction modifiers for compensation) with Rotella T6. I'm hoping the MMO will do it's thing with T6.

This got me thinking, I tried Amsoil's Power foam twice on the Civic now(after it had 230,000 miles) and used Amsoil's Engine Flush twice at idle prior to the drain.

I'm surprised at the horror stories(like the fears you mentioned) that I haven't gotten a chunk loose yet to really clog something from those treatments. Perhaps it did 'score' one of the cylinder heads slightly, without me realizing? Each time with the power foam it was a good smoke show for several WOTs.

Any way of knowing? I've never torn down an engine but would pulling my spark plugs(I have to change them before my next interval) allow me to see the cylinder head at all via a plug's tube?



The carbon fears stem from people taking a brush or other harsh solvent to the carbon during a head gasket repair. Amsoil power foam and MMO will slowly soften the carbon, allowing it to be ejected from the engine on a restart.
When I first started cleaning the cylinders I was using a plastic brush and some carb cleaner. This broke some of the carbon free, and it became lodged between the piston and the bore, and it was HARD carbon. I used the soak to soften it up to mitigate any damage done...but I was surprised by how soft it actually was. So soft, that I sucked it out with my oil extractor...and the pistons were factory shiny. I really wish I had taken pictures.

But as another poster alluded to, I think time is the important factor here. I'm sure several products would accomplish the same thing, as long as you give them at least a couple days to soak.
 
+2, for the last two posts. Thanks for the tips dmp, and the clarification OP. Good info. I enjoyed reading this experience.

Oh, and this 1 WM locally sells Gallon sizes of MMO. It winds up being $3.19/Quart before tax.
 
Taking inspiration from this topic, I have soaked one of the spark plug in MMO. Let me see if the plug becomes clean by next weekend. Mind you, I have had no success with other potent solvents such as Techron, Berryman B-12 etc with the same method.

- Vikas
 
Do you have a before picture of the plug? What is it fouled with? That would be awesome to see.

In the case of a piston soak, firing up the engine and it actually running helps clear the junk that was softened up.
 
It is a regular NGK which came off my mower. It has standard amount of carbon on it. Since the plugs are cheap, I change them way more often than needed and I have stash of perfectly good good plugs with blackened end. I used a prescription pill bottle (perfect size!)
 
Perfect fit. I have a plug in my mower for about 12 years now. It always starts on the first pull, and when I check it it's fine. I always seemed to change them too early in my small engine equipment. Then had a bunch of good plugs sitting around, this one I'm pushing to the limit.
 
The stuff definitely works. I ran some through my Jeep for a while after I first got it. Part way through that OCI, I pulled the intake manifold to change the plenum gasket. There was just light varnish in the lifter valley, and it was soft enough that most of it could be just wiped off with a finger.
 
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