Shopping list for new MTB

[JHZR2]

Hi,

Assuming I start moving towards a 29er, curious what (besides good fit) I should put highest.

Ive always felt like components can be upgraded later... But what choices early on can limit me going forward?

I'd think that once finding a bike that fits well, Ill want to be sure that it has the heaviest-duty hubs I can find (15mm through?) and the best front fork I can get.

Need I really worry about bigger rotors? 160 vs 185mm say? Is a selection based upon rotor size an important one?

Just want to be a really informed customer if I decide to upgrade.

Thanks!

 

[Spazdog]

I'm still using linear pull brakes. I haven't had any significant problems with wet conditions and no longer ride when it's muddy so I won't rut the trails and give the anti-MTB factions any more ammunition against us.

I'm also apparently the only person that has destroyed several sets of Rock Shox Judy bushings. My Manitou has held up well.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Assuming I start moving towards a 29er, curious what (besides good fit) I should put highest.


The best helmet you can afford & full-finger gloves.

As far as bicycle hardware, I prefer to spend money on wheels & brakes before all else - the strongest, heaviest wheels I can get. Never had a problem screeching to a halt even with v-brakes either.

 

[dparm]

Get something with a good frame. You can't really upgrade that later. Obviously fitment is crucial but I'm also talking about things like weight.

I've never even given any thought to rotor diameter. I have warped many discs but fortunately they're cheap. I'm planning to swap Avid Juicy 5s or BB-7s this summer.

There's plenty of good forks available on the aftermarket. You can pretty easily sell the original one to recoup a lot of the cost. That's what I did with the garbage fork that came on mine (put a Tora 318 on instead).

 

[rshunter]

Originally Posted By: Spazdog
I ...no longer ride when it's muddy so I won't rut the trails and give the anti-MTB factions any more ammunition against us.

Some people really need to get a friggin' life. I mean REALLY...

Originally Posted By: dparm
Get something with a good frame. You can't really upgrade that later. Obviously fitment is crucial but I'm also talking about things like weight.

Words to live by, and engrave in stone for all perpetuity. This is rule number one, first, last and always.

 

[JHZR2]

Ok, so let's say I get a Ti US made frame. What parts from my 26" bike can I keep and transfer to a 29"?

 

[cchase]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Ok, so let's say I get a Ti US made frame. What parts from my 26" bike can I keep and transfer to a 29"?


Everything but the wheels and fork, potentially seat post and front derailleur (depending on the seat tube diameter on the 2 bikes), and potentially the stem, depending on what the current bike has.

 

[cchase]

Originally Posted By: dparm
I've never even given any thought to rotor diameter. I have warped many discs but fortunately they're cheap. I'm planning to swap Avid Juicy 5s or BB-7s this summer.


Sorry, but you aren't warping disc rotors. The only reason they get "warped" is from hitting things and getting bent.

 

[Spazdog]

Originally Posted By: rshunter
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
I ...no longer ride when it's muddy so I won't rut the trails and give the anti-MTB factions any more ammunition against us.

Some people really need to get a friggin' life. I mean REALLY...


We get lumped in with the freestyle BMX riders that shovel up ramps. They aren't doing us any favors.

Horses do far more damage to soft singletrack than I ever did but no one singles out the horse riders. It's always the MTB riders.

I like my fast singletracks and don't want to damage them but somehow I'm the horse spooking/ environment damaging bad guy.

 

[UG_Passat]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Hi,

Assuming I start moving towards a 29er, curious what (besides good fit) I should put highest.

Ive always felt like components can be upgraded later... But what choices early on can limit me going forward?

I'd think that once finding a bike that fits well, Ill want to be sure that it has the heaviest-duty hubs I can find (15mm through?) and the best front fork I can get.

Need I really worry about bigger rotors? 160 vs 185mm say? Is a selection based upon rotor size an important one?

Just want to be a really informed customer if I decide to upgrade.

Thanks!


Just depends on how much you really want to spend.

The Trek-Gary Fisher marlin 29er has been extremely popular this year, which is good starting bike. The front fork isn't the best, but at the mid-$600 pricepoint, comes with the territory.

160mm mechanical disks brakes are fine for the technical terrain of NJ (my rockhopper 29-er has Avid BB5's).

Higher pricepoint bikes will have the better front forks, better brakes (higher end mechanical & hydraulic), better derailleurs, a 36T rear cassette.... (which I just put on this year)--- in the end... it's the frame that matters.

 

[greenjp]

At your weight (per the other thread) you need good wheels and good cranks/bottom bracket. Note by "good" I don't mean top of the line, which frequently means "light and fragile". You need sturdy components. A friend of mine who is probably up in your weight range has replaced multiple wheels on his 29r Ellsworth and its bottom bracket creaks like an old man's knees. I'm 185 lbs and my old hardtail Giant Ranier is on the original rims and the LX hollowtec cranks (the only thing I've upgraded) and bracket don't make a sound.

As you pointed out those are replaceble parts, but I'd rather get the right stuff up front and not worry about it later.

As ug_passat said, aside from that it's really just making sure you get a quality frame.

jeff

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Just depends on how much you really want to spend.



I was looking at $1-2k with no concern where in the range. Could go higher, but per the other thread, I just am not sure Im good enough to justify or know the difference. Im just trying to get to the sweet spot of quality compoennts.

Because this doesnt get me a US made bike, I may be compelled to save a bit more and get something domestic, but need to think that through a lot more.

What does anyone think of the stumpjumper/rockhopper?

36T is the cassette to get?

Sram or shimano?

My current bike has top of the line Avid hydraulics from 2009, IIRC. If there is one thing I like to do, it is stop... Dont think I want to go back to mechanical.

 

[UG_Passat]

the stumpy hardtail is a solid bike, and positioned above the Rockhopper.

My Rockhopper is an 09 Comp 29-er. Since then, I've upgraded to X-7 RD & X-7 shifters (from a X5 RD & X4 shifters), due to breaking them at Deer Park in NNJ, and replaced the bar with a carbon/aluminum one (no rise.... I got it for free from a friend) and replaced the chain rings (left the 44T off the bike and put a BBG Bashguard instead) & got a Shimano 9-speed 36T cassette....

Mahlon Dickerson got some steep, technical climbs, and the 36T is a noticeable difference compared to the 32T that came with my Rockhopper.
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if you can hold out.... June 18th... JORBA Bike Fest.
http://jorbabikefest.org/

Hopefully there should be demo bikes available.... (not sure who's going to present GIANT bikes, as the LBS for them closed shop in Feb 2011.... Hopefully, my LBS (Marty's Reliable) will be demo'ing Specialized bikes this year

 

[JOD]

the 15mm fork really does seem to make a difference, so at your size it could be worth considering.

In terms of spec, I think this bike is hard to beat:

http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/mountain/xxixg-11/

If you have a Raleigh dealer near you, check it out.