Mobil 1 0w30 or 5w30

[Schredder]

Greetings,

Question relates to 2010 Chevy Equinox with 2.4 ecotec. After the factory fill, the car was always received Mobil 1 5w30. I chose Mobil 1 5w30 due its HTO6 designation thinking this approval should help reduce any intake valve deposits associated with DI engines.

I know that Mobil 1 0w30 does not have the HTO6 designation, but I gotta think that this weight should due well in the 'nox. I have also read on here, that the 0w30 is the better oil of the two.

Thoughts?

Chris

 

[Alex38]

I'd run the 0w30 over the plain vanilla M1 5w30 all day long. Their 5w30 EP, 5w30 TSUV, and 5w30 HM oils are better than the regular 5w30 M1, in my opinion.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Alex38
I'd run the 0w30 over the plain vanilla M1 5w30 all day long. Their 5w30 EP, 5w30 TSUV, and 5w30 HM oils are better than the regular 5w30 M1, in my opinion.

I like the "plain vanilla" M1 5W-30 and there are trade offs with the EP,TSUV and HM versions that I don't like.

The AFE 0W-30 is M1's lightest 30wt oil.
Whether it will produce lower intake deposits over the heavier 5W-30 I can't say, but I would not think so.
BTW, at the present time only the 5W-30 oil has the GM dexos1 designation.

 

[JasonBraswell]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Alex38
I'd run the 0w30 over the plain vanilla M1 5w30 all day long. Their 5w30 EP, 5w30 TSUV, and 5w30 HM oils are better than the regular 5w30 M1, in my opinion.

I like the "plain vanilla" M1 5W-30 and there are trade offs with the EP,TSUV and HM versions that I don't like.

The AFE 0W-30 is M1's lightest 30wt oil.
Whether it will produce lower intake deposits over the heavier 5W-30 I can't say, but I would not think so.
BTW, at the present time only the 5W-30 oil has the GM dexos1 designation.
*Correction* The M1 EP 5w-30 now has Dexos Cert as well. The new SN bottles coming out have the green Dexos label on the front. EP is the best oil M1 sells according to the M1 site.

 

[JasonBraswell]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Alex38
I'd run the 0w30 over the plain vanilla M1 5w30 all day long. Their 5w30 EP, 5w30 TSUV, and 5w30 HM oils are better than the regular 5w30 M1, in my opinion.

I like the "plain vanilla" M1 5W-30 and there are trade offs with the EP,TSUV and HM versions that I don't like.


Btw- just wondering what tradeoffs you do not like. I run the HM and EP's and they perform very well so far.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Alex38
I'd run the 0w30 over the plain vanilla M1 5w30 all day long. Their 5w30 EP, 5w30 TSUV, and 5w30 HM oils are better than the regular 5w30 M1, in my opinion.

I like the "plain vanilla" M1 5W-30 and there are trade offs with the EP,TSUV and HM versions that I don't like.


Btw- just wondering what tradeoffs you do not like. I run the HM and EP's and they perform very well so far.



Yeah I was wondering that too.

 

[CATERHAM]

They're all heavier and have a lower VI's, particularly the HM.
If you plan on a very long OCI then OK to the EP.
If you want the seal swell then try the HM.
But if you just want a heavier longer life oil then blend in some M1 0W-40 instead. A 50/50 blend will give you an as thick as the HM but with a much higher VI of 176 vs only 162 for HM.
Otherwise stick with the regular 5W-30.

 

[quietriot]

I realize the post is about 30, but ive ran both m1 5w20 and 0w20, to tell a difference mpg etc, id have to flip a coin.

 

[Trav]

CATERHAM i'm running ESP 5w-30 in a few engines any issues with this oil.It sure has the specs.

 

[JasonBraswell]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
They're all heavier and have a lower VI's, particularly the HM.
If you plan on a very long OCI then OK to the EP.
If you want the seal swell then try the HM.
But if you just want a heavier longer life oil then blend in some M1 0W-40 instead. A 50/50 blend will give you an as thick as the HM but with a much higher VI of 176 vs only 162 for HM.
Otherwise stick with the regular 5W-30.

I like the higher HTHS of the 5w-30 HM and EP above the reg M1 or 0w-30 M1. If it matters to anyone the M1 OW-30/40 are not rated for ACEA A5, which means the oil is not as stable for long drains. Since I run 10k plus OCI's in TX heat, I prefer the higher HTHS and the stability of the A5.

To answer the OP, any of these oils will get the job done and make the engine outlast as long as he/she will probably own the car.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: JasonBraswell
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
They're all heavier and have a lower VI's, particularly the HM.
If you plan on a very long OCI then OK to the EP.
If you want the seal swell then try the HM.
But if you just want a heavier longer life oil then blend in some M1 0W-40 instead. A 50/50 blend will give you an as thick as the HM but with a much higher VI of 176 vs only 162 for HM.
Otherwise stick with the regular 5W-30.

I like the higher HTHS of the 5w-30 HM and EP above the reg M1 or 0w-30 M1. If it matters to anyone the M1 OW-30/40 are not rated for ACEA A5, which means the oil is not as stable for long drains. Since I run 10k plus OCI's in TX heat, I prefer the higher HTHS and the stability of the A5.

To answer the OP, any of these oils will get the job done and make the engine outlast as long as he/she will probably own the car.


UOAs have shown that M1 0-30 and 0-20 hold up well for 10K OCIs in most engines even though they are A1. M1 0-40 is very suitable for long OCIs. My daughters MB calls for 13K OCI with M1 0-40.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: quietriot
I realize the post is about 30, but ive ran both m1 5w20 and 0w20, to tell a difference mpg etc, id have to flip a coin.

The latest version of M1 5W-20 is a much thicker oil to the prior version with it's HTHS vis of 2.77cP; if you likely you can think of it as a HM 20wt.
The M1 0W-20 is as light as it's ever been with it's HTHS vis of 2.6cP which is typical for the grade.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Trav
CATERHAM i'm running ESP 5w-30 in a few engines any issues with this oil.It sure has the specs.

This oil is similar to Castrol's GC, even a bit heavier.
In fact it is as close to being a 40wt oil without being one as you can get.
What I don't like about this oil is the same as the other M1 5W-30 variants; it's lowish VI of 164.
If you want a heavy 30wt oil you don't have to settle for a low VI, thick start-up oil. Simply blend M1's excellent 0W-40 with either their 0W-30 or regular 5W-30. For example, a 3 to 1 blend of 0W-40 and 0W-30 will give the same HTHS vis as ESP but with a VI over 180. What that means is that the blend will be lighter at all temps below 60C and almost 20% so at 0C.

That's why I don't like these lowish VI M1 oils; their are much better options available.

 

[buster]

I like the M1 0w20/30 a lot. They still have not updated the PDS to reflect GF-5/SN.

 

[dwendt44]

As DI engines are pretty hard on oil, I'm wondering if the 0W oils are a bit thin for that type engine.

Comments!

 

[buster]

Originally Posted By: dwendt44
As DI engines are pretty hard on oil, I'm wondering if the 0W oils are a bit thin for that type engine.

Comments!


The one consistent thing I've noticed with DI engines is that oils with little to no viscosity modifiers do best staying in grade, which is to be expected. Some VM's are also better than others. That is the only thing I have noticed. Redline is a good example, and so is Amsoil ACD/DEO M1 TDT.

 

[CATERHAM]

The main problem with fuel dilution is not the oil thinning out per se but the cylinder washing; hence the high iron in UOA.

 

[buster]

True. It does seem to destroy the VM in some oils.

In terms of engine noise/responsiveness in the Honda, the M1 0w20 SN oil is the best to date. I would assume the Honda/Toyota 0w20's would be similar based on their viscosity specs. The M1 would handle high temperatures a lot better.

 

[CATERHAM]

There is nothing lighter at typical start-up temp's than the so called "ultra low viscosity, high VI" 0W-20's from Honda, Toyota, ENEOS and CAM II. With their 200 plus VI's they are in a league of their own.
For example, M1 0W-20 is 20% heavier at room temperature and over 30% at 0C than the EOM made Toyota Brand 0W-20 and that's comparing virgin oils. The Toyota oil shears also immediately (by design) about 10% once put into service making it even lighter still.