If it's possible, getting a set of junkyard lines from a car that's spent its whole life in the deep South could save much time/anguish later. Those cars don't have a speck of rust on the underside, and 11 year old fittings come apart very easily. Doll up the lines with Rustoleum and install. I got replacement lines for the Buick that way, and it saved me a lot of time/money/hassle.
Rusted Brake Lines
- Thread starter Fitz98
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Instead of cutting flaring, I generally use the supplied DOUBLE flared line that I can get, as it is much better than a single flare we can do.
I just get it longer and bend it safely to fit.
I just get it longer and bend it safely to fit.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Instead of cutting flaring, I generally use the supplied DOUBLE flared line that I can get, as it is much better than a single flare we can do.
Why can't you make your own double flare? There are many flaring kits that do a double flare.
A single 45 degree flare should never be used on a brake system. Or are you referring to a bubble flare?
Instead of cutting flaring, I generally use the supplied DOUBLE flared line that I can get, as it is much better than a single flare we can do.
Why can't you make your own double flare? There are many flaring kits that do a double flare.
A single 45 degree flare should never be used on a brake system. Or are you referring to a bubble flare?
Kestas
Staff member
I've been making double flares successfully for 30 years.
So far I was I able to remobe the rusted lines without a problem.
Used PB Blaster and they came loose pretty easy.
Left front line broke while removing...good re-inforcement that it was time to change them.
Bent the front right Poly-Armour tubing. Acually bends pretty easy by hand. Did a couple practice double flares. Also quite easy to do. I will re-use the old nuts.
The master cyliner lines are rusty too, so I think I will do the double 720 degree loop bends on the Poly-Armour lines (If there is enough room) to give some flex in those lines as one member suggested. So far so good, thanks for all the tips.
Used PB Blaster and they came loose pretty easy.
Left front line broke while removing...good re-inforcement that it was time to change them.
Bent the front right Poly-Armour tubing. Acually bends pretty easy by hand. Did a couple practice double flares. Also quite easy to do. I will re-use the old nuts.
The master cyliner lines are rusty too, so I think I will do the double 720 degree loop bends on the Poly-Armour lines (If there is enough room) to give some flex in those lines as one member suggested. So far so good, thanks for all the tips.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. It was all very helpful. Great forum with great members.
I ended up using the Poly Armor line. 3-1/16". I had some tight multiple bends and still had no issues on bends. I took a scrap and tried to kink it, and the stuff is almost kink proof!
Works well bending with fingers, but also had a tubing bender I used, loaner from AutoZone.
Did the 720 degree loops from the master cylinder to the proportion valve to replace the factory piece with the stainless flex tube in the middle. That looks like it will work well too.
Re-used all fittings, except 1 which was rusted to the old tubing, but re-using was a great idea. There are too many sizes and thread combinations as previously posted. I used a thin hacksaw blade to clean rust between threads, oiled them up a little and ran them in and out of the matching hole a couple times to clean them up before putting them on the tubing.
Double flares were easy with the double flaring tool and tubing cutter.
Will bleed and test for leaks tomorrow, a relatively easy job....with the right advice.
I ended up using the Poly Armor line. 3-1/16". I had some tight multiple bends and still had no issues on bends. I took a scrap and tried to kink it, and the stuff is almost kink proof!
Works well bending with fingers, but also had a tubing bender I used, loaner from AutoZone.
Did the 720 degree loops from the master cylinder to the proportion valve to replace the factory piece with the stainless flex tube in the middle. That looks like it will work well too.
Re-used all fittings, except 1 which was rusted to the old tubing, but re-using was a great idea. There are too many sizes and thread combinations as previously posted. I used a thin hacksaw blade to clean rust between threads, oiled them up a little and ran them in and out of the matching hole a couple times to clean them up before putting them on the tubing.
Double flares were easy with the double flaring tool and tubing cutter.
Will bleed and test for leaks tomorrow, a relatively easy job....with the right advice.
JHZR2
Staff member
My recommendation to anyone reading this thread... Check and change your rubber brake lines. Apparently DOT specs them for 6 years. Obviously they last a lot longer, but here were the lines on my 82 MB 300CD:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Originally Posted By: Fitz98
I have a 98 Expedition 5.4 4x4.
The vehicle is from the north and the steel brake lines are showing heavy rusting on the outside.
I would like to start changing them out, starting at the distribution valve.
Any advice on this proceedure?
Can I buy the brake lines from the dealer already bent, or should I just buy pre-terminated lengths and bend them myself?
Or plan to flare and terminate steel lines myself?
Anyone with any experience in this area?
If you looked under most any vehicle up here the rust would scare you......
I advise to wash the undercarriage with a pressure washer, let it dry and oil spray it. If it's not leaking, don't mess with it !
The lines on my '02 are immaculate
Krown is a thing of beauty.
Originally Posted By: Fitz98
I have a 98 Expedition 5.4 4x4.
The vehicle is from the north and the steel brake lines are showing heavy rusting on the outside.
I would like to start changing them out, starting at the distribution valve.
Any advice on this proceedure?
Can I buy the brake lines from the dealer already bent, or should I just buy pre-terminated lengths and bend them myself?
Or plan to flare and terminate steel lines myself?
Anyone with any experience in this area?
If you looked under most any vehicle up here the rust would scare you......
I advise to wash the undercarriage with a pressure washer, let it dry and oil spray it. If it's not leaking, don't mess with it !
The lines on my '02 are immaculate
Krown is a thing of beauty.
Replacing the 11 year old rubber brake lines on my Buick resulted in an easier to modulate brake pedal and better pedal feel.
I will do a closer inpection on my rubber lines, but they seemed to look pretty good.
Thanks for bringing it up, and the pic is helpfule for what to look for.
I have always been curious about the spongy pedal. Thought it was just the difference between jumping from a Nissan into an Expedition.
Today I found a big vaccuum leak on tree coming out of the manifold. I repaired and will see the results after I bleed the lines. Hoping for an improvement, otherwise, I am thinking this is just the way these trucks are.
Thanks for bringing it up, and the pic is helpfule for what to look for.
I have always been curious about the spongy pedal. Thought it was just the difference between jumping from a Nissan into an Expedition.
Today I found a big vaccuum leak on tree coming out of the manifold. I repaired and will see the results after I bleed the lines. Hoping for an improvement, otherwise, I am thinking this is just the way these trucks are.
Pictures of the brake line work.
The 2 coils at the top are the 720 degree loops from the Master cylinder to the proportion valve that one member suggested to replace the stainless flex lines.
[img:left]http://www.hometheaterlifestyles.com/brakes2.html[/img]
The 2 coils at the top are the 720 degree loops from the Master cylinder to the proportion valve that one member suggested to replace the stainless flex lines.
[img:left]http://www.hometheaterlifestyles.com/brakes2.html[/img]
Looks good,nice job!
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